Go over to the dark side! After black lipstick and eyeshadow dominated the runways at Fashion Week, make-up artists share their top tips for wearing the bold look in real life
- Black lipstick was seen on the runways of Dior, Marc Jacobs and Rihanna's Fenty x Puma
- Heavily rimmed, black smoky and cat eyes were seen at shows like Elie Saab, Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent
- FEMAIL shares the pro tips and tricks for pulling off both vampy looks at home
It's official: The fashion industry is going through a goth phase. From Marc Jacobs in New York to Dior in Paris, heavily rimmed, black smoky eyes and black lipstick - sometimes tinged with purple or red - ruled this season's runways.
While out-there fashion week looks don't always translate to real life, this one has more wearability than you might expect. After seeing the dark trend paired with elegant evening gowns at Elie Saab and against luminous skin at Rodarte, black lipstick and raccoon eyes suddenly seem less angsty teenager and more cool-yet-sophisticated woman.
How did the make-up wizards behind the scenes achieve this feat, you ask? Though the different takes on the trend ranged in intensity and style, a common thread was the technique of mixing the dark with flashes of light.
Rebel without a cause: Dark lipstick (seen here on models backstage at Dior's fall 2016 show) and eye make-up was fashion month's biggest - and most fun - beauty trend
Dark and stormy: The more kohl, the better was the takeaway at shows like Elie Saab, where intense smoky eye looks were painted on models like Kendall Jenner (pictured)
Extremes: At Rodarte (left) deep purple lips added a toughness to an otherwise ethereal look, while at Marc Jacobs (right) eighties punk-inspired make-up complemented twenties flapper-inspired waves
In other words, shimmer, metallic and highlighting products were employed backstage to offset the toughness of the vampy looks.
To transform models into ethereal goddesses with an attitude for Rodarte's fall show, for example, make-up artist James Kaliardos contrasted the girls' deep plum lip color (created with a mixture of Nars Liv Audacious Lipstick and Train Bleu Velvet Matte Pencil) with Nars Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Dione, a gorgeous champagne shimmer.
Similarly, at Rihanna's Fenty x Puma presentation, make-up artist Pat McGrath applied a healthy dose of highlighter along the apples of the cheeks and up toward the temples after painting the lips of models like Gigi Hadid jet black.
Make-up artist Peter Philips swiped a layer of clear gloss over Dior Lipstick in Poison, a 'rebellious' purple-tinted black available this August, to create a luxe, light-reflecting finish at the Dior show.
Light meets dark: Make-up artist Pat McGrath (who created Gigi Hadid's look at Rihanna's Fenty x Puma seen here) used highlighter and shimmery eyeshadows to soften and elevate dark lips and eyes
Focus on the lips: The key to pulling off vampy lip colors? Backstage at both Ohne Titel (left) and Vivienne Westwood (right), it was keeping the rest of the face bare
Sleek and sophisticated: Hairstylists contrasted edgy lip colors with slicked-back looks and updos at shows like Marni (left) and Gareth Pugh (right)
Similar approaches were used backstage to elevate and soften inky eye looks.
In Milan, face painter Diane Kendal applied a silver pearlized shadow (MAC Mineralize Eye Shadow in Cinderella) along the bottom lash line of an otherwise matte onyx eye at Dsquared2's part warrior, part Beyonce-inspired show.
After covering eyelids with MAC Blacktrack Fluidline, artist Tom Pecheux applied MAC Eye Gloss over the crease and in the inner corners of the eyes in order to catch the light on the Moschino runway in Milan.
In Paris, Tom said a dusting of grey shimmer on the almond-shaped smoky eye at Elie Saab was meant to look like a granite rock when the sun hits it. And Peter's dusting of black glitter on the watercolor eyes (created with Kryolan Aquacolor in 071) at Dries Van Noten provided a touch of decadence.
A twinkle in their eyes: Swipes of shimmer shadow were added to heavily rimmed eyes at Dsquared2 (left) and Moschino (right) as a means of upping the glam factor
A hint of sparkle: To keep the overall look luxe, artist Peter Philips added a sprinkling of black glitter onto make-up smudged eyelids at Dries Van Noten
All about the eyes: An intense eye look - like this one from designer Julien Macdonald's runway - is best paired with a natural complexion and a neutral lip
As we hinted at earlier, the other key to pulling off dark lips and eyes is to opt for minimalism everywhere else.
It's best to choose either the lip or the eye (unless you can handle both at one time, in which case we commend your beauty bravery), and aside from some highlighter to keep the complexion glowy - not goth - little other make-up needs to accompany the look.
For the hair, slicked-back styles seemed to be the go-to pairing on the runways, though we thought the natural waves at Vivienne Westwood's Paris show really added to the black-mouthed look's 'IDGAF' vibe.
While the trend may appear to be moody, the most important trick for nailing the look is to have fun with it. In a moment where no-make-up make-up is the style du jour, it's refreshing to be encouraged to play.
Smoky and sultry: A diffused cat eye - seen at Saint Laurent (left) and Roberto Cavalli (right) - is both sexy and forgiving of mistakes
- www.sephora.com/...
- Dione Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow | NARS Cosmetics
- www.sephora.com/...
- Dior Addict Lip Maximizer by Dior on Dior Beauty Website
- Mineralize Eye Shadow | MAC Cosmetics - Official Site
- M·A·C Studio Eye Gloss | MAC Cosmetics - Official Site
- Aquacolor 8 ml | Kryolan - Professional Make-up
- Fluidline | MAC Cosmetics - Official Site
- www.sephora.com/...
- www.sephora.com/...
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