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Crystal clear waters, untouched beaches and a pastel-hued capital: Why Puerto Rico is the Caribbean's new affordable hotspot

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Famed for its tropical islands and world-class beaches, the Caribbean has long been a playground for the rich and famous and a destination I've always considered way out of my league.

But sipping a piña colada under a palm tree on the most idyllic stretch of sand I've ever set my eyes upon after an evening exploring the brightest bioluminescent bay in existence, I can't quite believe my luck.

The Caribbean is becoming more accessible and affordable for people like myself thanks to new flights to the region.

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Sun Bay - one of the beautiful beaches on the island of Vieques, which is only 21 miles long and four miles wide

Vieques sleepy sister island of Culebra. Silky ribbons of sand line the low-key island which is home to the famous Playa Flamenco - generally known as the Caribbean's best beach

Norwegian began flying direct to Puerto Rico - 'the Island of Enchantment' - last November, enabling Brits to travel direct from London to the Caribbean for an affordable escape.

Long overlooked by British tourists for other hotspots such as Cuba and the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico wasn't the first destination that sprung to mind when dreaming of holidays in the Caribbean. But the country is a treasure trove of unexplored beaches, crystal-clear waters, idyllic islands, exclusive hotels, and world-class water sports.

The pastel-hued capital San Juan is the perfect combination of old and new - a city of immense culture with an eclectic mix of restaurants, vibrant bars throbbing with tropical sounds and endless impeccable beaches where a rum cocktail is never too far away.

The 48 hours I spent in the city enabled me to explore the colourful, cobbled streets of Old San Juan, experience the city's rich cultural heritage and stay in one it's most famous hotels.

The view from Condado Vanderbilts infinity pool which looks onto the crashing seas of the North Atlantic

The colourful streets light up Old San Juan - the oldest settlement in Puerto Rico

Old San Juan - the oldest settlement in Puerto Rico - is a city of colour and culture. The walled district has a distinct Spanish feel to it, enhanced by its own tropical Caribbean charm, where colonial architecture is awash with a vibrant palette.

San Juan is a haven for luxurious, five star hotels that boast impeccable views, idyllic beaches and flawless service.

Condado Vanderbilt Hotel - a common hangout for the rich and famous - is among the capital's finest hotels and once known as the social epicentre of San Juan.

Built in 1919 and refurbished in 2008, it is situated only a 10-minute taxi ride away from Old San Juan, making it the perfect setting for a cultured retreat.

Beyond the indisputable appeal of San Juan, the west coast remains pristine and unembellished and boasts endless opportunities for water-sports.

Referenced in the Beach Boys classic song 'Surfin' Safari', the small fishing village of Rincon on the western-most tip of Puerto Rico has become a surfing mecca. The word of Rincon's world-class surf breaks got out after the 1968 World Surfing Championship, leading surf bums from across the world to flock to the village. It's easy to know when you've reached Rincon - colourful concrete houses dot the hills, food stalls selling cheap pina coladas and pinchos - a Puerto Rican fast food staple - line the streets and surfboard-packed cars dominate the roads.

But unlike other surfing destinations such as Hawaii's Waikiki or France's Biarritz which have become over-commercialised, the town has kept its authenticity and flavour.

Condado Vanderbilt’s Tower Ocean View King - the hotel is a common hangout for the rich and famous 

Playa Maria - one of Rincon’s famous surf beaches - also has a collection of beautiful coral reefs teeming with turtles and tropical fish

Rincon is home to a number of boutique hotels and small-scale B&Bs. I opted for the English Rose B&B which is set in the mountains and offers clean suites with sweeping views and the best breakfast in town.

The town is also known for its sunsets. Visitors and locals gather at the picturesque Lighthouse in the evening to drink Medalla - the island’s beer - and spot migrating whales bound for cooler waters while watching surfers take advantage of the last light of the day. The daily ritual perfectly reflects the town’s two nicknames - Pueblo del surfing (the surfing town) and El Pueblo de lose Bellos Atardeceres (the town of beautiful sunsets). 

Surfing isn't the only water sport that Rincon has to offer - it also has a collection of beautiful coral reefs teeming with turtles and tropical fish. 

One of the many secluded islands visible on the flights between the mainland and Culebra and Vieques

For world class beaches, the islands of Vieques and Culebra are a must.

Small airline companies allow travelling between the mainland and small islands easy. During the eight minute flight to Vieques, I was joined only by two commuting locals who remained unperturbed when rain began dripping through the windows and the pilot battled to land the plane in gusty winds.

As well as a handy and cheap mode of transport, the no-fuss flights (which require no boarding pass and call out names five minutes before takeoff) provide the opportunity to enjoy the incredible scenery from above - from deserted tiny islands to expansive coral reefs.

Within minutes of landing on Vieques, I could sense a very different culture and a feeling of the real Puerto Rico. 

Walking a couple of seconds beyond the two tiny tourist strips I stumbled upon locals sitting outside their jumbled colourful houses playing cards while listening to loud music or smartly-dressed children purchasing ice creams after a day at school.

Horses are as much an integral part of the island as the sand and sea and for many, the main mode of transport on the island.

While introducing me to Malecon House - the beautiful seafront boutique hotel I was staying at - manager Giancarlo told me 'we try to keep the gate closed as horses tend to come onto the property - and he was right. Within minutes of unpacking my bags and taking a seat beside the gorgeous pool, two small horses managed to sneak through to enjoy the lush tropical garden.

Situated in the charming village of Esperanza just minutes away from some of the island’s best beaches, bars and restaurants, Malecon House offers 13 stylish bedrooms all of which are uniquely decorated with high-end furnishings.

Sunset in Esperanza, Vieques, which is home to some of the island’s best beaches, bars and restaurants

The pool set in the tropical gardens at Malecon House - which offers 13 stylish bedrooms all of which are uniquely decorated with high-end furnishings

The staff at Malecon House are friendly just like all the Puerto Ricans I encounter. Everyone in the country seems to wear a smile, from the airport's security officer to the bathroom assistant, the hospitality and attitude is second to none.

Although the island is only 21 miles long and four miles wide and has no traffic lights, Vieques is a driver's island - a Jeep or a golf cart (of a horse) is a must to visit some of the 40 incredible - but very remote - beaches on offer.

While exploring the island's National Wildlife Refuge, it's not unusual to stumble upon a powdery stretch of white sand where you can spend the day lazing in heaven joined only by the company of shallow-swimming fish and the occasional iguana.

The island is also home to one of nature's most breathtaking spectacles - the glowing of a bioluminescent bay. The millions of tiny star-like bioluminescent phytoplankton emit light and scintillate like a starry sky when stressed - be it by the lapping of waves, the carving action of a paddle or the movement of a fish.

Sat upon a clear-bottom kayak, my guide Carlos enthusiastically led us into the lagoon for the otherworldly evening where lit-up sharks and giant tarpon darted below us chasing fish and the luminous organisms.

Picturesque Flamenco Beach on Culebra is generally known for being one of the Caribbean’s best beaches

Bioluminescent Bay in Vieques was officially declared the brightest recorded in the world by Guinness Book of World Records

Vieques sleepy sister island of Culebra is a beautiful eight minute flight away. Silky ribbons of sand line the low-key island which is home to the famous Playa Flamenco - generally known as the Caribbean's best beach.

The island is free from resort-style hotels, supermarket chains, nightlife and rush-hour traffic - offering untouched natural beauty and culture which is a million metaphorical miles from the bright lights and buzz of San Juan.

The picture perfect beach of Playa Flamenco is a curving mile of white sand and turquoise water which consistently makes it onto lists of the world’s best beaches - and rightly so.

Cuartel de Vallaja is a military barracks built between 1854 and 1864. It is located in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

A lifeguard hut on a blustery day at Playa Flamenco

But the island is home to a number of other beautiful beaches. The secluded beach of Playa Zoni is free from the crowds often found on Flamenco and boasts similarly turquoise waters with stunning views of tiny islands.

As the island's only boutique hotel, Club Seabourne's delightful blue bungalows are distinctive and climb the hillside in the south of the island.  Boasting a tropical garden with hammocks and outdoor pool the hotel is a perfect place to unwind. Rooms come complete with luxurious four-poster beds and private balconies with stunning views.

Though even smaller than Vieques, transport is required to get the most out of the island. The golf cart I opted for proved a fun way to get around and led me to transport numerous visitors who hopped on the back as I explored the island, including an American couple who needed to register the catamaran they had just docked at the harbour.

As I gulped litres of water after soaking up a bit too much sun on my final day, I realised the man sitting opposite me joking with the airport security as he drank his coffee was my pilot.

Following yet another nail-biting take-off, my fellow-passengers - all locals - carried on with their day's work as I took in the most breathtaking scenery I had ever witnessed.

TRAVEL FACTS 

Low-cost airline Norwegian flies from London Gatwick to San Juan for £159 single, or £320 return. 

Double rooms at Condado Vanderbilt, San Juan start from £209. Visit Condado Vanderbilt 

Double rooms at Malecon House, Vieques start from £113. Visit Malecon House 

Bungalows at Club Seabourne, Culebra start from £176. Visit Club Seabourne 

Suites at The English Rose, Rincon start from £81. Visit Rincon Puerto Rico Bed and Breakfast

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Crystal clear waters, untouched beaches and a pastel-hued capital: Why Puerto Rico is the Caribbean's new affordable hotspot