Cigarette Aficionados Go to War
The evening of Saturday, March 31, found a beautiful pack of
gallery crawlers huddled outside Mary Boone's Chelsea gallery, puffing on theirMarlboros and bouncing from Blahnik to Blahnik to keep warm. They sucked on
their cigarettes, ashed on the sidewalk and flicked their butts in the gutter
before going back into artist- célèbre
Damian Loeb's new show, where the New York art and fashion crowds were out in force. Moby, Iman and Lucy Sykes
elbowed their way around the main room through the deafening babble. And there,
in the back room, a barely perceptible wisp of cigarette smoke floated toward
the ceiling. It emanated from the lanky Mr. Loeb himself. Pinching a cigarette
between his left thumb and index finger, à la Johnny Depp, and blowing smoke on
the admiring throng and attending camera crews, Mr. Loeb surveyed the scene, an
ashtray filled with three butts in front of him on the glass table. "It's not
allowed; it's me," Mr. Loeb said with a smile when asked about the forbidden
nicotine. "I think every artist gets a few favors on the night of their
opening." Then he added, with a laugh: "I won't show up if I can't smoke!" With
that, Mr. Loeb summed up the predicament of smoking for those chosen few who
feel they're entitled to light up wherever they please, whether it's illegal or
not.
Although the City Council's Smoke-Free Air Act banned
cigarette smoking in restaurants with over 35 seats (except in the bar area and
in specially enclosed rooms) in 1995, there are still those who aren't
afraid-or even aware-of the ordinance, or are perhaps so confused by the law
that they aren't sure what's allowed. In fact, according to a City Council
spokesperson, the law is extremely complicated: Smoking is allowed in the bar
area, even at tables, but the provisions that govern how many tables are
permitted, and at what distance from the rest of the restaurant, are based on
factors like the size of the restaurant and its revenues. As a result, a handful
of chic restaurants keep ashtrays handy for regulars, celebrities and other
pretty or powerful addicts who want to indulge in that after-dinner Marlboro
Light in off-limits areas. "There are people who are important to us because
they have been coming for many years," said Danny Emerman, the owner of Chelsea
lunch spot Bottino, the canteen of art-world regulars like Larry Gagosian and
Andrea Rosen, and a haven for smokers like Cecily Brown and David Hockney.
"[They] have smoked here and feel they are a little bit above the law. We have
to be strong, but sometimes we're not."
Now, however, a bill put to the City Council by Speaker
Peter Vallone might force those restaurateurs to toughen up. His new bill would
outlaw smoking in all restaurants-bar area included, except when closed off-and
in some food-serving bars as well, prompting a wave of panic among New York
smokers, who complain that the 1995 ordinance has already pushed them onto the
butt-strewn street, leaving gaps in the conversation as they duck out between
courses. Helpless, they watch the last rampart remaining before the city
becomes as smoke-free as Los Angeles falling into the hands of the health
freaks, while restaurant owners-some of whom think nothing of paying the
thousands of dollars the health department fines them, with 751 such fines paid
in 1999-brace for a loss of business. In threatening this dwindling
constituency, Mr. Vallone has given life to a particular New York creature, the
powerful smoking pariah.
"Please Sir, ease up, redirect your efforts," wrote the
actress Natasha Richardson in a three-page Feb. 1 appeal to Mr. Vallone that
was c.c.'ed to Mayor Rudolph Giuliani and Senator Hillary Clinton, obtained by The Observer .
(Ms. Richardson declined to comment.) "[T]here are many citizens in this city,
as well as visitors from all over the world who do not mind being in the
presence of other people's smoke. They are just not as vocal as the righteous
anti-smoking brigade, who will not rest until the few beleaguered smokers who remain
are relegated to grabbing a desperate fix on a wind blown street corner, or
must be content to stay at home and not visit the fabulous restaurants and bars
of our city."
Those "few beleaguered smokers" have found refuge at several
hand-picked restaurants. As Ms. Richardson put it, "Since smoking was banned in
restaurants a few years ago, the list of places that can accommodate smokers
has become very short indeed. (I used to go to about 30 restaurants in the
city; I now have a short list of about five.)" But these refugees aren't being
forced to dine at the bar at Dallas BBQ. The power-smoker's short list includes
Elaine's, where smoking is frequent at the tables in front of the bar; Da
Silvano, where the front room is a semi-accepted smoking section; and Swifty's,
where Nan Kempner said she used to puff away in her smoking days after the 1995
law, although Swifty's management said they deter their customers from smoking
and are a "non-smoking" restaurant. Add to those the continental bistros with a
European smoking etiquette, such as Les Deux Gamins and Piadina in the West
Village-favorites of Condé Nast Brits, fashion photographers and guys in
thin-soled loafers and quilted coats. "Basically, it's all French types of
brasserie, etc.," said publicist Nadine Johnson, a Belgian-born smoker,
addressing where one inhales à table these days. "It's a romantic thing. Like Café Flore or Brasserie
Lipp more than conservative restaurants. It's [like] existential living in
Paris."
At Balthazar, the closest New York will ever get to that
glimpse of Parisian existential life, Kate Moss was recently spotted lighting
up at a corner table after a salad and fries, only to have a waiter rush
over-with an ashtray. Because who in the world is going to tell Ms. Moss to
stub it out? "It's a power game," explained the manager of a prominent Upper
East Side bistro. "If someone lights up a cigarette and the person next to them
asks us to tell them to stop, we sometimes have to tell them to move to a
non-smoking section." Or as Keith McNally, Balthazar's owner, put it: "I could
care less about the effects [of the bill] on business. But am I going to tell
people like Fran Lebowitz or Christopher Hitchens they can't smoke? If people
breathe their second-hand smoke, they'll probably get a higher I.Q.!"
It comes as no surprise that the smoking sections of these
restaurants read like a New York power map. Tables in the front of Da Silvano
and Elaine's are next to impossible to land for the average Joe, and the maître
d' of the aforementioned Upper East Side bistro said that a majority of
non-smokers actually ask to be in their illegal-smoking front room. "It's where
everyone wants to be, so they can see people coming in," he said. By losing the
smokers, these restaurants risk losing some of their star appeal. Out go the
chain-smoking models and their Marlboros, and so do the Page Six mentions and
ensuing star-gazers. Hence the owners' lax attitudes. "It's hard to tell people
to stop, especially Europeans," said Silvano Marchetto of Da Silvano, where
Donatella Versace freely lights up. "And a lot of people from fashion do that
all the time. If they can't, they get annoyed." Asked whether people smoke in
the front room of his restaurant, Mr. Marchetto stammered. "Sometimes," he
said. "Not really … at lunch time … sometimes. Sometimes they can, sometimes
they cannot."
Listening to worried restaurateurs, it seems that they have
a lot more at stake than the smokers if Mr. Vallone's bill passes later this
spring. They are the ones who will be in the difficult position of telling
their longtime smoking customers to put it out or take it outside. Take Sean
MacPherson, who recently opened Chelsea hot spot the Park, and who started
celebrity hangout Bar Marmont in smoke-free Los Angeles. "It really puts the
restaurant owner in an awkward position," he said of his L.A. experience. "You
are obligated to tell the person smoking they can't smoke, but you're not
obligated to stop them, and technically you can't take the cigarette away. So
you go over there and tell them smoking is illegal in the city of Los Angeles,
and they can say, 'Yes, I know,' and keep on smoking. It can end up being
fairly conceptual."
Despite the hefty fines given to restaurants when they are
reported to the Department of Health, some customers just won't quit. "The law
is very vague," said Frank Minieri, co-owner of Il Cantinori in the Village, a
favorite of Uma Thurman, Keanu Reeves and Ms. Richardson. "Not everyone
understands you can only smoke at the bar, and a problem arises when a customer
lights up in the non-smoking section. We go over and tell them to stop, and 98
percent of the time they do it. But there's always that one person who will
take another puff, or two, and then I get reported and get a violation and have
to go to the tribunal." Last week, he said a regular customer-"a high-profile
lady"-refused to put out her cigarette after she was asked. "Don't they want
our business?" she snapped at the waiter. "Don't they want us here?" She left
in a huff, saying she would only patronize restaurants that don't care about
legality from now on. "They come to the restaurant, they spend money, they
think they should be able to do what they want," said Mr. Minieri. "And we're
in the restaurant business-we want to make people happy."
Most smokers understand that times have changed. Nan
Kempner, currently in a "stop-smoking stage," remembered the glory days of
lighting up mid-meal in New York. "Once, long before the smoking ban, someone
next to me complained about my smoking at La Grenouille," she recalled. "They
said, 'I'm allergic.' I said, 'Why don't you move?' But I couldn't do that
today."
The argument of most restaurateurs, however, is that they
will lose business. Elaine Kaufman of Elaine's depends on a crowd of regulars
who come knowing that they will be able to drink and smoke, and drink and eat
as they smoke some more. "Of course it's going to hurt business," she said.
"And it antagonizes foreigners-and we like their business." Ms. Kaufman added
that, as it was, the smoking section at her restaurant was already too small.
"The rule now is more than adequate; there's no need to stack on more rules and
laws."
At Chelsea's Lot 61, which is to downtown artists what
Elaine's is to uptown writers, owner Amy Sacco sounded the same worried note.
"Smokers go out a lot; they bring in business," she said. "It's embarrassing to
have customers who smoke and nowhere to let them smoke." But lest we think it's
only the elite watering holes that are targeted, Ms. Sacco added: "It's not
fair to the little guy who has 35 seats. People were probably flocking there
because they could smoke. Now what is
he going to do?"
Surveying their options, restaurateurs talk of several
strategies. One will be to continue to coddle their smoking customers (a
strategy cited, on background, by at least one restaurant partner). Another
would be to turn restaurants into nightclubs, which Ms. Sacco half-considered
with a laugh. A third is to hope the restaurant and tourism lobby will be
working hard enough on the issue to block the bill.
Smokers are almost ready to get … political. Apart from the
pleading Ms. Richardson ("I beg you Sir to reconsider this matter"), Mr. Loeb
toyed with the idea on the night of his opening. "I seriously considered, when
George W. Bush won, protesting and being political," he said. "But the smoking
thing would definitely push me over. It's much more important." And how would
he protest? "Egg houses, T.P. people. They don't really have trees to T.P.
here, though," said the Connecticut native. "But all kinds of subversive
vandalism-whatever it takes." Then, after a pause, he said more seriously:
"What I would do, actually, is vote against the Council members who support it.
I vote. I'm politically aware."
It is, after all, a
Mayoral election year, and Mr. Vallone is in the running. Current Mayor Rudy
Giuliani will probably veto the bill if it is approved as is by the City
Council, but Jordan Barowitz, Mr. Vallone's spokesman, said that there is still
time for the bill to be amended, especially since a second hearing will take
place before the vote sometime this spring. But the city's smoking
constituency, despite all its star power, might not find strength in
numbers. "We're an unpopular group," said
writer Gay Talese, who cites among his few remaining vices an after-dinner Cohiba Robusto-the weed of choice in the
90's. "We have no constituency. Who do we have now? Castro?"
"There's no question that smokers are losing this war,"
echoed Mr. MacPherson. "As much as I'm opposed to it, I think it's a losing
war."
"I don't see it hurting the business if it's universal,"
said Lotus co-owner David Rabin. "But the enforcement is so shoddy that there
will always be little French bistros in Nolita where 90 percent of the
customers smoke."
And there will always be that celebrity or power-broker who
will be allowed to smoke whenever he or she desires. Asked about the ban as he
left Mr. Loeb's opening, David Bowie said: "I had not noticed that … and I
probably won't when it happens."
-With Petra
Bartosiewicz
Nice story. I especially like the bit about about second hand smoke raising IQ ;)
Opium smoking later spread with Chinese immigrants and spawned many infamous opium dens in China towns around South and Southeast Asia and Europe.