Although founded late in Polish
history (at the beginning of the 14th century), centrally located Warsaw has been
Poland's capital on and off since 1611. Long a cultural and industrial centre,
Warsaw was one of central Europe's most beautiful and sophisticated cities until
it scooped the prize for worst-ravaged in WW II. Warsaw is essentially a postwar
product in both appearance and spirit. Its handful of historic oases have been
meticulously reconstructed, but most of the urban landscape is modern. This new
face of Warsaw is impressive for the resolve with which it emerged, if not for
its Stalinist edifices and uninspired prefab concrete suburbs.
 The
city is divided by the Vistula River into two very different parts. The western,
left-bank sector includes the city centre proper and the Old Town to the north.
Almost all attractions, as well as the lion's share of tourist facilities, are
on this side of the river. The right-bank part of Warsaw, the suburb of Praga,
has no major sights and hardly ever sees tourists.
The Old Town was rebuilt
from the foundations up because after the war it was nothing but a heap of rubble.
The monumental reconstruction, which took place between 1949 and 1963, aimed at
restoring the appearance of the town in its best times, the 17th and 18th centuries.
Every authentic architectural fragment found among the ruins was incorporated
in the restoration. In 1945, the Old Town Square was just the walls of two houses
sticking out of the rubble, today it is a harmonious blend of Renaissance, Baroque
and Gothic elements. It's alive and atmospheric, doesn't feel contrived, and is
replete with open-air cafés and art stalls. The Historical Museum of Warsaw
occupies the entire northern side of the square and screens a startling documentary
about the destruction and reconstruction of the city, as well as displaying its
charmingly presented collections from Warsaw's earlier history.
Warsaw's
main north-south boulevard is the Royal Way, running from the Royal Castle to
Lazienki Palace, the royal summer residence. This is one of Europe's grandest
stretches of road, with churches, palaces, galleries and museums lining the route.
Halfway down, point your nose east, quash your aesthetic sensibilities and bustle
towards the drab and repellent exterior of the National Museum to enter a treasure
house of art from ancient to contemporary, the highlight being an impressive collection
of frescoes from an early Christian cathedral in Pharos, Sudan, dating from between
the 8th and 12th centuries. There's also an amazing display of Coptic crosses.
 Warsaw
offers a wide variety of ethnic cuisines and you can eat and drink late into the
night. There's an extensive and swiftly growing array of restaurants all over
the Old Town serving traditional Polish and international food. Student clubs
along the southern portion of Royal Way offer a variety of cultural activities,
including recitals, poetry, cinema, theatre, and rock, folk and jazz concerts,
but weekend nights are usually reserved for discos.
Cheap places to stay
are scattered throughout the city, sometimes a long way from the centre, and usually
lacking in style and atmosphere. There are a couple of good hostels near the university
though, and private rooms are available through agencies (ask at the information
centre opposite the Royal Castle). There is a small camping ground near the central
bus terminal.
As Poland's capital, Warsaw is a busy terminus for flights,
trains and buses, both domestic and international. The main train station is centrally
located, the bus station is just west of the city centre, and the airport is on
the southern outskirts of the city, about 10km from the centre. |
Restaurants
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