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Bus Travel

Bus travel: Beware of pickpockets who are thick on the buses of Sumatra. Indonesians' sense of garishness is reflected in their multi-colored Chevrolet 'chicken-catcher' private buses which are often painted bright colors to make them distinctive. They often have names such as Guntur (thunderbolt) and Ki/at (lightening), thus Bis Malam Kilat is Lightening Night Bus. If you take local buses they pick up all the locals even if the bus is already full. If you take the Mercedes buses, they don't pick up many extra passengers and they have better suspension (also cost Rpl-500 more). You can cross Sumatra lengthwise in the dry season in 5 or 6 days if you meet all your connections. If you don't want to rupture you spleen, however, 2 weeks should be allowed. In the wet season it might take you a solid month. There could be many lengthly delays during the rainy season when river levels at ferry crossings are swollen too high for the vehicle to board the unweildy rope-bound wooden rafts which are used as ferries, hauled across the river along a steel hawser slung between the two banks. If bridges are out in South Sumatra you can often catch the next barge downriver, a memorable journey, to a town where you can wait more comfortably for another bus. Swim in the rivers while waiting (up to 3 days) for your bus to cross. Try A.N.S. bus company, about the most reliable, but their seats are built for bigger asses. Next best is A.L.S. For less wear and tear on your big ass, it's imperative that you get a seat in front of the back axle of the bus. Also your luggage is safe from theft up front where the whole bus can keep an eye on it. Sometimes a rope is strung out in front of you to lean on for relief or to sleep on, if you can. On a Sumatran bus you'll have a guaranteed breakdown at least once, a comic repair show, and endless Indonesian music played right over your head at full distorted volume. You're bogged in mud, driven over logstrewn cow paddocks, your head crashed against the ceiling (if you're over 5 ft. tall), your ass resting on spikes. Like being inside a cement mixer, you spend more time airborne than on the seat. Bus sickness is rampant and companies thoughtfully dispense plastic bags. A stoker usually rides with the driver to do running repairs, errands, and to collect fares. The driver eats 5 times a day at Padang-style restaurants along the way and there are untold stops for drinks. On some North Sumatran runs, the drivers even race each other with passengers as unwilling spectators. If you're coming up from the south by bus, break the ride up and take 1-2 day rests. This way you can appreciate South Sumatra and enjoy your trip more and not have it associated only with pain. The first leg would be Tanjungkarang to Palembang, then from Palembang to Padang, then from Padang to Lake Toba or Medan. Book immediately on your bus out as soon as you get in a town. Always ask the local people or other travelers what the true fare is before buying your ticket. On long bus journeys you could pay as much as Rp1000 over the usual fare.