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The Bemo

Much has been written about the jetsetter - little about the bemo-setter. It's high time this was put right.

Before we go further, let us get this berno bit straight. 1 hate writers who keep hurling the unidentified noun at you, leaving the reader unsure whether he should play it, eat it, put a curse on it or cover it with insurance.

A bemo is all things to all people. A miracle on wheels, or a menace on the roads; a mobile noah's ark or a travelling icebox.

There is never a bemo when you want one - always four in convey when you don't.

Put another way - a bemo is a Bali bus. Rather, it is a life style. You are either a jetsetter or a bemosetter - and if you're a jetsetter, my heart bleeds for you. Mark you, a bemosetter is likely to bleed too, in a lot of odd places - but the heart is not one of them.

This is because, during one trip, the traveller may have to climb, slither or leap over such assorted hazards as a couple of sacks of rice, a large box of woodcarvings, a mudguard for a motorbike, a pig rolled in straw matting, a stack of picture frames, an elaborate temple offering, a basket piled high with fruit, or a barrel of over-ripe dried fish - to name but a few.

A bemo - which does not indulge in such discriminatory nonsense as first and second class - still offers the passenger a choice of seats




 

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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