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Let us, as they say, draw a batik curtain over the remaining miles of stony, potholed, undulating nightmarish road, before we reached Taro. When I struggled off the bike my two legs were not so much separated as divorced, and I felt they would need a matchmaker to re-introduce them and get them together again.

Yet, when I staggered over to the tall carved gate and looked in at the temple, I would have cheerfully climbed on the bike and made the trip twice over to see such a fantasy of colour and imagination.

The pura at Taro is old - its weatherbeaten bales spread across spacious courtyards - and every bale, great or small, from palm-thatched roof to stone-paved floor, was one glowing mosaic of offerings.

Offerings that stood tall in pinnacles and pyramids, or towered aloft from bowls of gold lacquered wood or hand-beaten silver. Offerings composed of fruits and flowers and coloured rice cakes, bedecked with ribbons and brocade.

Offerings - like giant tiffany lampshades - shaped from clusters of fruit hanging under a canopy of frilly rice cakes, swung in rows from every roof, their trailing streamers barely clearing the array of offerings massed below.

And the colours, the incredible colours. Cerise rice cakes under a crown of golden marigolds; red apples between creamy frangipanni, of pale yellow bananas topped with scarlet hibiscus.
Each offering so. exquisitely designed that it seemed to be singing its own hymn Of praise to the gods.
The Festival at Taro was a tribute - not only to the gods, but to the unfaltering faith and devotion of the village.


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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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