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Stay and Eat

stay and eat: Peng. Pasangrahan is Rp250. Wisma Mamasa is on top of a hill; only Rp250 including coffee, wicker chairs and a patio. You usually have the place all to yourself under a mountain. Eat nasi antur (green beans, buffalo meat, and rice) in the town restaurant near the police station for Rp300; delicious. Or eat nasi padang food in the market warungs, Rp175 for a big meal. Avoid the other restaurants.crafts: Sambu blankets are produced around Mamasa; they cost Rp7000 (Rp13,000 in Rantepao). Some of these 8 m long cloths take 7 years to complete on a loom consisting of just sticks stuck in the ground. Several west Torajan clans use a bronzecasting tecnhique called the lost wax process (cire perdue) which originated in southwest Europe in the 8th and 9th Centuries, then traveled through Central Asia and China by way of the Dongson Culture. Copper work is done by only a few specialized groups living in the north who make small human and animal figures, pendants, balls, coiled ornaments (sanggori), jewelry and bracelets. Deep in the interior tribespeople still produce pottery by means of a neolithic beating-technique.from Mamasa: If you have a lot of gear hire horses in Mamasa for Rp2000 a day (they ask at first Rp8000 a day). To Makale there's a long 5 day walk, and a shorter one of 3 days. Be sure to get info first either from the people at Wisma Mamasa or at the warungs in the market. To Bittuang (where there are river crocodiles), it's a 70 km 3 day walk. From Mamasa the first 20 km is uphill, then about 16 km down, then up about 3 km to Punding. From Punding it's a gradual climb for 10 km, a steep climb 3 km, then descend down to Bittuang for 6 km. On this difficult winding trail you pass through a splendid country of waterfalls and mountain scenery. During the wet you have to get up and start walking early before the afternoon rains. Wear boots, not rubber sandals. From Bittuang, it's possible to take a jeep Rp500 down to Makale leaving approximately 2 pm each day or every other day. Sometimes the bridge is down on the way. for Polewali: Travel 12 hours downhill not on a road but on a dry riverbed full of boulders: literally get sores on your ass. The jeep may spend the night in a kampung along the way.


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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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