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from Rantepao: Starting at 9 am buses leave all day long heading over the mountain to the harbor town of Palopo, Rp500 (but Rp600 coming back because you ascend). Buses and vans leave all the time up to 9 pm for Makale, 17 km to the south, Rp100. You can get to the northern towns of Palawa, Pangli and Sa'dan easier on Rantepao's market day; Rp150 by jeeps and old trucks which leave constantly to these northern villages, returning each hour until nightfall. For Ujung Pandang take Liman Express, Rp1500, 10 hours; their office is in the northern end of town. to Enrekang: A twisting road leads from Rantepao deep into the mountains high above the valleys, a panavision technicolor trip passing craggy limestone ridges honeycombed with caves. In some places streams are half a mile below the road, other spots they roll along together. See young girls playing flutes while walking along the roadsides. Try bale kotu (coconut candy) at Kotu on the way.VICINITY OF RANTEPAO : It's no sense buying the Rp1000 all-inclusive ticket at Wisma Maria to get into the approximately 8 tourist sites around Rantepao because often there won't be anyone at the entrance gates to collect your tickets. Many sites are reachable by just one or two hour walks from Rantepao but these are supertouristy and often thronged with kids asking for money and candy ('minta uang, kasih gula'). As a rule children of Torajaland are very relaxed (and talkative) except for those in these tourist villages near Rantepao. It's a real drag in places like Palawa' and Marante, and grownups just egg them on. At some sites you could be asked to sign a visitor's book and to give a donation of Rp100-250. Given are the directions, various sites, and distances from Rantepao.

WALKS FROM RANTEPAO
A quite unknown short walk: Go down the same road as Losmen Flora 200 m to the river, .then you come to a path. See an overgrown, eerie, watery cliff 200 m beyond at the base of which are very old tombs. roundtrip to Alang Alang: Cross the bridge south of town on the road to Singki and walk about 4 km to Alang Alang. Cross another bridge and turn north towards Rantepao again, walk 2 km, turn right, visit the Londa burial caves, then return to the main highway and catch a bemo Rp50 back to Rantepao. the Nanggala walk: Head for Palopo by bus, get off at the Nanggala turnoff, Rp100, then walk 1'/, km to Nanggala. See the best examples of rice barns here, beautifully preserved. It's a fantastic walk 10 km from Nanggala to Paniki over an arid mountainous area; some jungle and leeches. Constantly ask people along the way how to get to Paniki. This track seldom has visitors and buffaloes bolt at the smell of you. From Paniki, it's a shorter picturesque walk into Buntao. Could catch a bemo to Rantepao from Buntao or walk on a cobblestoned road to the highway where you can hitch a ride back. A good hard day's walk. If you continue on to Bokin, more good views. roundtrip via Pangli and Parinding: Not many hills on this walk. Head north first 9 km to Pangli, then cut in to Bori where you can see the megalith circle. From Bori head through lovely ricefields back to Rantepao by way of Parinding. Go real early on market day so you can walk back to Rantepao with droves of villagers carrying their wares. Rantepao-Makula' walk: A level hike of 25 km. From Rantepao walk 1 km south to the Pertamina gas station, then turn east (left) and follow this path 6 km when you'll come to a fork in the road. Turn right here and carry on through Randan Batu. Bathe in the hotsprings at Makula. From Makula take the track heading directly north west to Makale. On the way see the carved figures in a cliff at Suaya. From Makale, take a bemo back to Rantepao, Rp100.