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Of course, when the bemo gets really crowded, then there is nothing for it but to grab a toehold on the back step. Here you stand completely outside, with your batik whipping wildly in the wind, your knuckles clenched to the top edge of the roof, your head poking up some 18-inches above it. You are therefore in a magnificent position to view the scenery. You are also handy should any of the multitude of parcels that are jabbing and prodding your ankles and shins decide to fall off - as you can then hold on with your teeth and show-off your skill by rescuing them.

But can you name me one fully loaded jet that will make an unscheduled stop to pick up a mother,~ her five children and a pushbike; reshuffle the passengers to make room, and, when one of the mother's bundles falls off, grab it by the string and deftly wind it aboard?

True, there are times when a berno decides it's had enough passengers and careers around the country side with a cargo of ice blocks - or maybe a half dozen water buffalo. And sometimes for a lark, it just streaks along stark naked - with nary a passenger on board.

But for fun and friendship, gaiety and good humor, a bemo leaves a jet stranded mid-air without a propeller.


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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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