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Scrambling up the steps back onto the road, I recognised a friend amongst the worshipers. "What is happening" I asked.
"Important festival coming up," he replied. "Today we collect holy water. Tomorrow night very special ceremony in Pura Taman.
Many people go into trance."

Before I could ask any details, my friend, with a polite "Permisi", hurried off to rejoin his place in the homeward bound procession.
Getting to Pura Taman the following night was easy. Getting information about the ceremony was a different packet of potato crisps altogether.

At last I asked a small girl, who stared at me wide-eyed a moment, before answering in a hushed whisper: "The priest will bathe in fire tonight"

Then, as though afraid of what she had said, she bounded up some steps, darted through a split gate and out of sight.

The Balinese, fanatics for bodily cleanliness, will bath anything not nailed down - fighting cocks, cows, pigs, trucks, grandmothers, and motorbikes - twice daily. But for a priest to bathe in fire

I was trying hard to digest this unlikely piece of information when Wyan, one of our bar boys, arrived in full temple gear.

No, Wyan assured me, the priest would not bathe in fire, but the eight boys and eight girls who I had seen dancing in the temple last night certainly would.
If a priest bathing in fire seemed unlikely - 16 people bathing in fire seemed incredible!
Offerings arrived - offerings were taken home, two gamelan orchestras, one at the entrance to the temple, the other in the inner courtyard, kept up a non-stop flow of metallic melody.

In the centre complex, where no tourists were permitted, a pedanda, imposing in his robes, was dispensing mantras and holy water.

An hour passed before the musicians dropped their hammers, the pedanda began donning his everyday clothes, and the worshippers came flooding out of the temple, laughing and chattering.
So, what had happened to the bath of fire
Wyan looked surprised when I asked him.
"All in good time, Nyonya. Slowly, slowly. Maybe one hour maybe two- better Nyonya go home now .









 

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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