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Hotel Tjampuhan, perched high on the bank of a very sacred river, is no exception. Offerings are made on all the prescribe', days for both good and evil spirits and little palm leaf trays' packed with flowers, incense and small portions of food, are continually popping up without warning in every corner of the garden - on special occasions, even in the guest bungalows. And while many hotels seek to woo custom by western-style gimmicks, this little hotel steadfastly turns its back on such innovations and offers visitors a slice of old Bali -warts and all

As a result, a tiny squirrel flashes from branch to branch in the frangipanni an arm's length from where I write. I pause to watch his antics and two minute gold-and-brown honeyeaters dart into a neighboring tree and hover - wings frantically beating - over a bunch of ripe berries. Now a slim, sleek black and white bird zooms into the frangipanni and starts wagging its tail like a metronome. Another diversion as a kingfisher - a flash of blue feathers, scarlet beak - skims along the river bank, below the sacred banyan tree.

Naturally, such rustic harmony cannot be lightly achieved. A hotel which has no electricity also has no automatic laundry. In place of








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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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