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The Elephant Day Festival

"I've had it," announced a fellow guest, flopping on a stool at the Campuhan bar and ordering beram barong.

"Steps, and then more steps - and what for? A ha-dful nf dusty old pavilions and a few crumbling statues. See one Balinese temple and you've seen them all."

This, of course, is like saying "See one human and you've seen the lot". Actually, there is something very-human about Balinese temples. For instance, every temple in Bali has its own birthday once a year, and for this occasion it is actually "dressed" in its party clothes - its merus and bales festooned with lengths of freshly laundered white cloth - while in one pavilion a gamelan orchestra plays tinkling melodies. Moreover, night and day, through flooded 0

rice paddies, down dusty roads, from every kampong, stream the villagers bearing gifts.

True, it is easy_to make mistakes about temples. Let me tell you of my first visit to one.

1 arrived in Bali just alt. the beginning of a most important festival. On all sides 1 was urged: "You must visit Mother Temple during the Elephant Day Festival."

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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