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SOUTH CELEBES
(SULAWESI SELATAN)

Tired of Bali getting the lion's share of the tourist business, South Celebes is starting to go tourist crazy now with grandiose plans for an international airport, tourist villages, nightclubs, massage parlors, golf clubs, plus big souvenir shops in all the main towns. There is now a tourist tax of Rp1000 in Torajaland; the cop comes right around to your hotel in Rantepao to collect it (maybe you can avoid payment by staying in Makale instead of in Rantepao). Don't get into an argument with the becak drivers in Ujung Pandang; they're a drag. Gus Mampu: A bat cave 48 km from Bone where stalagmites form figures of animals and people. Bantimurung: A quest resort 40 km from Ujung Pandang. Go first to Maros, then take a bemo. Nature reserve, cliffside caves, a 15 m high waterfall, and hundreds of species of colorful butterflies, some very rare like the Birdwing which has a wingspan as wide as your hand. Stay in cheap bungalows. Maros: There's a new telecommunications center here, an American engineer will explain to you some of the equipment. Unusual rocks in this area. Birta Ria: 64 km south of Ujung Pandang. Climb down a bamboo ladder from a plateau to reach the beach. Malino and Cikorok: Cool hill resorts S.E. of Ujung Pandang Malino is 760 m above sea level. Stay in the guest houses or with families for perhaps Rp 1000 at night. Tues. & Sun. are market days in Malino; it's a plea sant walk to the waterfall 4 km south of town. Use these resorts as a base for 2-3 hour walks through pine forests to kampungs in the hills. Sengkang: A small town near Lake Tempe. See home silk weaving produced here. Losmen Merdeka is filthy and although the other losmen is Rp1000, it's much cleaner. Losmen Sederhana, run by Chinese people, Rp350, is OK. People in the Bugis fishing villages on. the lake will also put you up. isolated societies: Hunter-gatherer cultures (approx,12,000), which don't live in permanent settlements, still exist in the southeast: the Toalas and the Toramanus in Rantebulan, Mambi subdistrict and in Tubi, Mambi subdistrict, Tutalla District; the Tanan Toa people (5000) live in Kajang subdistrict, Bulukumba District; the Onto People 12300) in Banta Eng subdistrict, Bantaeng District; the Tolampuna in Padangmalua Limbong subdistrict, Buwu District, only 200 left. Some of these groups show surviving evidences of the Veddoid culture, one of the first civilizations to occur in these islands 10,000 to 15,000 years ago.

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