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So you're back on the painting circuit again.
This time, a tiny studio in a back lane - and, believe it or not, there is one painting here you know you must have.
Like I said - how to go to Ubud and not buy a painting.


Festival At Taro

If you can be here by the 17th of next month," wrote my friend Arie Smit, "you will be in time for the big Odalan at Taro."

just before the 17th I found myself back in Bali, and a visit to Arie's studio confirmed that the Odalan (or Festival) would indeed be a spectacular event. It also confirmed that Taro was a remote, untouched primitive village - approached by a remote, untouched primitive road, virtually impassable except on foot. Still, not to despair. One could go to Pujong by car, then an hour or so's walk, down a ravine, across a river and over a mountain - and you were in Taro.

With the temperature weaving through the 90's, the Odalan suddenly lost charm. Until Arie advised that Jojol, a young woodcarver from Taro, had offered to be waiting at Pujong with a bemo, to drive any of Arie's friends to Taro. Now, given an uninhibited and enthusiastic driver, a bemo can literally climb trees - so what was I waiting for

Past terraced sawahs, bisected with gurgling rivers by taxi I sped to Pujong, eager to board the bemo and test the primitive road. But while the primitive road was very much in evidence, there was no hint of a bemo - not a whisper or rumour. Nobody even wanted to know about one.

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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