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Bank Fraud
Bankruptcy Fraud
Criminal Violations
Fake Driver’s License
Investment Fraud
Mail Theft
Passport Fraud
Phone Fraud
Social Security Number Theft and Misuse
Tax Fraud
My purse was stolen in December
1990. In February 1991, I started getting notices of
bounced checks. About a year later, I received information
that someone using my identity had defaulted on a number
of lease agreements and bought a car. In 1997, I learned
that someone had been working under my Social Security
number for a number of years. A man had been arrested
and used my SSN on his arrest sheet. There’s a
hit in the FBI computers for my SSN with a different
name and gender. I can’t get credit because of
this situation. I was denied a mortgage loan, employment,
credit cards, and medical care for my children. I’ve
even had auto insurance denied, medical insurance and
tuition assistance denied.
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, January 2, 2001
In the course of a busy day, you may write a check at
the grocery store, charge tickets to a ball game, rent
a car, mail your tax returns, call home on your cell
phone, order new checks or apply for a credit card.
Chances are you don’t give these everyday transactions
a second thought. But someone else may.
The 1990’s spawned a new variety of crooks called
identity thieves. Their stock in trade is your everyday
transaction. Each transaction requires you to share
personal information: your bank and credit card account
numbers; your income; your Social Security number (SSN);
or your name, address and phone numbers. An identity
thief co-opts some piece of your personal information
and appropriates it without your knowledge to commit
fraud or theft. An all-too-common example is when an
identity thief uses your personal information to open
a credit card account in your name.
Identity theft is a serious crime.
People whose identities have been stolen can spend months
or years — and thousands of dollars — cleaning
up the mess the thieves have made of their good name
and credit record. In the meantime, victims may lose
job opportunities, be refused loans for education, housing,
cars, or even be arrested for crimes they didn’t
commit. Humiliation, anger and frustration are common
feelings victims experience as they navigate the arduous
process of reclaiming their identity.
Perhaps you’ve received your
first call from a collections agent demanding payment
on a loan you never took out — for a car you never
bought. Maybe you’ve already spent a significant
amount of time and money calling financial institutions,
canceling accounts, struggling to regain your good name
and credit. Or maybe your wallet’s been stolen,
or you’ve just heard about identity theft for
the first time on the nightly news, and you’d
like to know more about protecting yourself from this
devastating crime. This booklet is for you.
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), working with other
government agencies and organizations, has produced
this booklet to help you guard against and recover from
identity theft. Can you completely prevent identity
theft from occurring? Probably not, especially if someone
is determined to commit the crime. But you can minimize
your risk by managing your personal information wisely
and cautiously.
If you’ve been a victim of identity
theft, call the FTC’s Identity Theft Hotline toll-free
at 1-877-IDTHEFT (438-4338). Counselors
will take your complaint and advise you on how to deal
with the credit-related problems that could result.
In addition, the FTC, in conjunction with banks, credit
grantors and consumer advocates, has developed the ID
Theft Affidavit to help victims of ID theft restore
their good names. The ID Theft Affidavit, a form that
can be used to report information to many organizations,
simplifies the process of disputing charges with companies
where a new account was opened in your name. For a copy
of the ID Theft Affidavit, scroll down to the Appendix
or visit the ID Theft Web site at www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
The Hotline and Web site give you
one place to report the theft to the federal government
and receive helpful information. The FTC puts your information
into a secure consumer fraud database where it can be
used to help other law enforcement agencies and private
entities in their investigations and victim assistance.
My wallet was stolen in December
1998. There’s been no end to the problems I’ve
faced since then. The thieves used my identity to write
checks, use a debit card, open a bank account with a
line of credit, open credit accounts with several stores,
obtain cell phones and run up huge bills, print fraudulent
checks on a personal computer bearing my name, and more.
I’ve spent the last two years trying to repair
my credit report (a very frustrating process) and have
suffered the ill effects of having a marred credit history.
I’ve recently been denied a student loan because
of inaccurate
information on my credit report.
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, February 22, 2001
Despite your best efforts to manage
the flow of your personal information or to keep it
to yourself, skilled identity thieves may use a variety
of methods — low- and hi-tech — to gain
access to your data. Here are some of the ways imposters
can get your personal information and take over your
identity.
How identity
thieves get your personal
information:
They steal wallets and purses containing your identification
and credit and bank cards.
They steal your mail, including your bank and credit
card statements, pre-approved credit offers, new checks,
and tax information.
They complete a “change of address form”
to divert your mail to another location.
They rummage through your trash, or the trash of
businesses, for personal data in a practice known
as “dumpster diving.”
They fraudulently obtain your credit report by
posing as a landlord, employer
or someone else who may have a legitimate need for,
and legal right to, the information.
They find personal information in your home.
They use personal information you share on the
Internet.
They scam you, often through email, by posing as
legitimate companies or government agencies you do
business with.
They get your information from the workplace in
a practice known as “business record theft”
by: stealing files out of offices where you’re
a customer, employee, patient or student; bribing
an employee who has access to your files; or “hacking”
into electronic files.
How identity thieves use
your personal information:
They call your credit card issuer and, pretending
to be you, ask to change the mailing address on your
credit card account. The imposter then runs up charges
on your account. Because your bills are being sent
to the new address, it may take some time before you
realize there’s a problem.
They open a new credit card account, using your
name, date of birth and SSN. When they use the credit
card and don’t pay the bills, the delinquent
account is reported on your credit report.
They establish phone or wireless service in your
name.
They open a bank account in your name and write
bad checks on that account.
They file for bankruptcy under your name to avoid
paying debts they’ve incurred under your name,
or to avoid eviction.
They counterfeit checks or debit cards, and drain
your bank account.
They buy cars by taking out auto loans in your
name.
They give your name to the police during an arrest.
If they’re released from police custody, but
don’t show up for their court date, an arrest
warrant is issued in your name.
I’m tired of the hours I’ve
spent on the phone and all the faxing I’ve had
to do. When will it be over?
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, March 13, 2001
Tomorrow is Sunday
so we won’t get any notices, but I’m not
looking forward to Monday’s mail.
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, November 13, 2001
While you probably can’t prevent
identity theft entirely, you can minimize your risk.
By managing your personal information wisely, cautiously
and with an awareness of the issue, you can help guard
against identity theft.
What You Can Do Today
Order a copy of your credit report from
each of the three major credit bureaus. Your
credit report contains information on where you work
and live, the credit accounts that have been opened
in your name, how you pay your bills and whether you’ve
been sued, arrested or filed for bankruptcy. Make
sure it’s accurate and includes only those activities
you’ve authorized. By law, credit bureaus can
charge you no more than $9 for a copy of your credit
report. See “Credit Reports,” below, for
details about removing fraudulent and inaccurate information
from your credit report.
Place passwords on your credit card, bank
and phone accounts. Avoid using easily available
information like your mother’s maiden name,
your birth date, the last four digits of your SSN
or your phone number, or a series of consecutive numbers.
When opening new accounts, you may find that many
businesses still have a line on their applications
for your mother’s maiden name. Use a password
instead.
Secure personal information in your home,
especially if you have roommates, employ outside help
or are having service work done in your home.
Ask about information security procedures
in your workplace. Find out who has access
to your personal information and verify that records
are kept in a secure location. Ask about the disposal
procedures for those records as well.
CREDIT
BUREAUS
Equifax —
www.equifax.com
To order your report, call: 800-685-1111
To report fraud, call: 800-525-6285/
TDD 800-255-0056 and write:
P.O. Box 740241, Atlanta, GA 30374-0241
Experian — www.experian.com
To order your report, call: 888-EXPERIAN (397-3742)
To report fraud, call: 888-EXPERIAN (397-3742)/
TDD 800-972-0322 and write:
P.O. Box 9532, Allen TX 75013
TransUnion
— www.transunion.com
To order your report, call: 800-888-4213
To report fraud, call: 800-680-7289/
TDD 877-553-7803; fax: 714-447-6034; email: fvad@transunion.com
or write: Fraud Victim Assistance Department,
P.O. Box 6790, Fullerton, CA 92634-6790
Maintaining Vigilance
Order a copy of your credit report from each of
the three major credit bureaus once a year. By checking
your report on a regular basis you can catch mistakes
and fraud before they wreak havoc on your personal
finances. Don’t underestimate the importance
of this step. One of the most common ways that consumers
find out that they’re victims of identity theft
is when they try to make a major purchase, like a
house or a car. The deal can be lost or delayed while
the credit report mess is straightened out. Knowing
what’s in your credit report allows you to fix
problems before they jeopardize a major financial
transaction.
Don’t give out personal information on the
phone, through the mail or over the Internet unless
you’ve initiated the contact or are sure you
know who you’re dealing with. Identity thieves
may pose as representatives of banks, Internet service
providers (ISPs) and even government agencies to get
you to reveal your SSN, mother’s maiden name,
account numbers and other identifying information.
Before you share any personal information, confirm
that you are dealing with a legitimate organization.
You can check the organization’s Web site as
many companies post scam alerts when their name is
used improperly, or you can call customer service
using the number listed on your account statement
or in the telephone book.
Guard your mail and trash from theft.
Deposit outgoing mail in post
office collection boxes or at your local post office,
rather than in an unsecured mailbox. Promptly remove
mail from your mailbox. If you’re planning
to be away from home and can’t pick up your
mail, call the U.S. Postal Service at 1-800-275-8777
to request a vacation hold. The Postal Service will
hold your mail at your local post office until you
can pick it up or are home to receive it.
To thwart an identity thief who
may pick through your trash or recycling bins to
capture your personal information, tear or shred
your charge receipts, copies of credit applications,
insurance forms, physician statements, checks and
bank statements, expired charge cards that you’re
discarding, and credit offers you get in the mail.
Before revealing any personally identifying information
(for example, on an application), find out how it
will be used and secured, and whether it will be shared
with others. Ask if you have a choice about the use
of your information. Can you choose to have it kept
confidential?
Don’t carry your SSN card; leave it in a
secure place.
Give your SSN only when absolutely necessary. Ask
to use other types of identifiers when possible. If
your state uses your SSN as your driver’s license
number, ask to substitute another number.
Carry only the identification information and the
number of credit and debit cards that you’ll
actually need.
Pay attention to your billing cycles. Follow up
with creditors if your bills don’t arrive on
time. A missing credit card bill could mean an identity
thief has taken over your account and changed your
billing address to cover his tracks.
Be wary of promotional scams. Identity thieves
may use phony offers to get you to give them your
personal information.
Keep your purse or wallet in a safe place at work.
A
SPECIAL WORD ABOUT SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBERS
Your employer
and financial institution will likely need your
SSN for wage and tax reporting purposes. Other
businesses may ask you for your SSN to do a credit
check, like when you apply for a loan, rent an
apartment, or sign up for utilities. Sometimes,
however, they simply want your SSN for general
record keeping. You don’t have to give a
business your SSN just because they ask for it.
If someone asks for your SSN, ask the following
questions:
Why do you need my SSN?
How will my SSN be used?
What law requires me to give you my SSN?
What will happen if I don’t give you
my SSN?
Sometimes a business may not
provide you with the service or benefit you’re
seeking if you don’t provide your SSN. Getting
answers to these questions will help you decide
whether you want to share your SSN with the business.
Remember — the decision is yours.
The Doors and Windows Are Locked,
but . . .
You may be careful about locking your
doors and windows, and keeping your personal papers
in a secure place. But, depending on what you use your
personal computer for, an identity thief may not need
to set foot in your house to steal your personal information.
SSNs, financial records, tax returns, birth dates, and
bank account numbers may be stored in your computer
— a goldmine to an identity thief. The following
tips can help you keep your computer and your personal
information safe.
Update your virus protection software regularly,
or when a new virus alert is announced. Computer viruses
can have a variety of damaging effects, including
introducing program code that causes your computer
to send out files or other stored information. Be
on the alert for security repairs and patches that
you can download from your operating system’s
Web site.
Do not download files sent to you by strangers
or click on hyperlinks from people you don’t
know. Opening a file could expose your system to a
computer virus or a program that could hijack your
modem.
Use a firewall program, especially if you use a
high-speed Internet connection like cable, DSL or
T-1, which leaves your computer connected to the Internet
24 hours a day. The firewall program will allow you
to stop uninvited guests from accessing your computer.
Without it, hackers can take over your computer and
access your personal information stored on it or use
it to commit other crimes.
Use a secure browser — software that encrypts
or scrambles information you send over the Internet
— to guard the security of your online transactions.
Be sure your browser has the most up-to-date encryption
capabilities by using the latest version available
from the manufacturer. You also can download some
browsers for free over the Internet. When submitting
information, look for the “lock” icon
on the browser’s status bar to be sure your
information is secure during transmission.
Try not to store financial information on your
laptop unless absolutely necessary. If you do, use
a strong password — a combination of letters
(upper and lowers case), numbers and symbols. Don’t
use an automatic log-in feature which saves your user
name and password so you don’t have to enter
them each time you log-in or enter a site. And always
log off when you’re finished. That way, if your
laptop gets stolen, it’s harder for the thief
to access your personal information.
Before you dispose of a computer, delete personal
information. Deleting files using the keyboard or
mouse commands may not be enough because the files
may stay on the computer’s hard drive, where
they may be easily retrieved. Use a “wipe”
utility program to overwrite the entire hard drive.
It makes the files unrecoverable. For more information,
see Clearing Information From Your Computer’s
Hard Drive (www.hq.nasa.gov/office/oig/hq/harddrive.pdf)
from the National Aeronautics and Space Administration
(NASA).
Look for Web site privacy policies. They answer
questions about maintaining accuracy, access, security,
and control of personal information collected by the
site, as well as how information will be used, and
whether it will be provided to third parties. If you
don’t see a privacy policy, consider surfing
elsewhere.
For more information, see Site-Seeing
on the Internet: A Traveler’s Guide to Cyberspace
from the FTC at www.ftc.gov.
In November 2000, I found out
that someone used my information to obtain a cell phone.
Since then, I’ve been living a nightmare. My credit
report is a mess. It’s a full-time job to investigate
and correct the information.
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, April 3, 2001
Our economy generates an enormous
amount of data. Most users of that information are from
honest businesses — getting and giving legitimate
information. Despite the benefits of the information
age, some consumers may want to limit the amount of
personal information they share. And they can: More
organizations are offering people choices about how
their personal information is used. For example, many
feature an “opt-out” choice that limits
the information shared with others or used for promotional
purposes. When you “opt-out,” you may cut
down on the number of unsolicited telemarketing calls,
promotional mail and spam emails that you receive. Learn
more about the options you have for protecting your
personal information by contacting the following organizations.
Credit Bureaus
Pre-Screened Credit Offers
If you receive pre-screened credit
card offers in the mail (namely, those based upon your
credit data), but don’t tear them up after you
decide you don’t want to accept the offer, identity
thieves could retrieve the offers for their own use
without your knowledge.
To opt out of receiving pre-screened
credit card offers, call: 1-888-5-OPTOUT (1-888-567-
8688). The three major credit bureaus use the same toll-free
number to let consumers choose to not receive pre-screened
credit offers.
Marketing Lists
In addition, you can notify the three
major credit bureaus that you do not want personal information
about you shared for promotional purposes. To ask the
three major credit bureaus not to share your personal
information, write to:
Equifax, Inc.
Options
PO Box 740123
Atlanta, GA 30374-0123
TransUnion
Marketing List Opt Out
PO Box 97328
Jackson, MS 39288-7328
Department of Motor Vehicles
The Drivers Privacy Protection Act
forbids states from distributing personal information
to direct marketers. It does allow for the sharing of
personal information with law enforcement officials,
courts, government agencies, private investigators,
insurance underwriters and similar businesses. Check
with your state DMV to learn more, or visit www.ftc.gov/privacy/protect.htm#Motor.
Direct Marketers
Telemarketing
The federal government has created
the National Do Not Call Registry — the free,
easy way to reduce the telemarketing calls you get at
home. To register, or to get information, visit www.donotcall.gov,
or call 1-888-382-1222 from the phone you want to register.
You will receive fewer telemarketing calls within three
months of registering your number. It will stay in the
registry for five years or until it is disconnected
or you take it off the registry. After five years, you
will be able to renew your registration.
Mail
The Direct Marketing Association’s
(DMA) Mail Preference Service lets you “opt- out”
of receiving direct mail marketing from many national
companies for five years. When you register with this
service, your name will be put on a “delete”
file and made available to direct-mail marketers. However,
your registration will not stop mailings from organizations
that are not registered with the DMA’s Mail Preference
Service. To register with DMA, send your letter to:
Direct Marketing Association
Mail Preference Service
PO Box 643
Carmel, NY 10512
The DMA also has an EMail Preference
Service to help you reduce unsolicited commercial emails.
To “opt-out” of receiving unsolicited commercial
email, use DMA’s online form at www.dmaconsumers.org/offemaillist.html.
Your online request will be effective for one year.
Sometimes an identity thief can strike
even if you’ve been very careful about keeping
your personal information to yourself. If you suspect
that your personal information has been hijacked and
misappropriated to commit fraud or theft, take action
immediately, and keep a record of your conversations
and correspondence. You may want to use the form, “Chart
Your Course of Action,” below. Exactly which
steps you should take to protect yourself depends on
your circumstances and how your identity has been misused.
However, four basic actions are appropriate in almost
every case.
Your First Four Steps
1. Place a fraud alert on your
credit reports and review your credit reports.
Call the toll-free fraud number of
any one of the three major credit bureaus to place a
fraud alert on your credit report. This can help prevent
an identity thief from opening additional accounts in
your name. As soon as the credit bureau confirms your
fraud alert, the other two credit bureaus will automatically
be notified to place fraud alerts on your credit report,
and all three reports will be sent to you free of charge.
Equifax — To report fraud,
call: 1-800-525-6285, and write: P.O. Box 740241,
Atlanta, GA 30374-0241
Experian — To report fraud,
call: 1-888-EXPERIAN (397-3742), and write: P.O. Box
9532, Allen, TX 75013
TransUnion — To report fraud,
call: 1-800-680-7289, and write: Fraud Victim Assistance
Division, P.O. Box 6790, Fullerton, CA 92834-6790
Once you receive your reports, review
them carefully. Look for inquiries you didn’t
initiate, accounts you didn’t open, and unexplained
debts on your true accounts. Where “inquiries”
appear from the company(ies) that opened the fraudulent
account(s), request that these “inquiries”
be removed from your report. (See “Credit Reports”
for more information.) You also should check that information
such as your SSN, address(es), name or initial, and
employers are correct. Inaccuracies in this information
also may be due to typographical errors. Nevertheless,
whether the inaccuracies are due to fraud or error,
you should notify the credit bureau as soon as possible
by telephone and in writing. You should continue to
check your reports periodically, especially in the first
year after you’ve discovered the theft, to make
sure no new fraudulent activity has occurred. The automated
“one-call” fraud alert process only works
for the initial placement of your fraud alert. Orders
for additional credit reports or renewals of your fraud
alerts must be made separately at each of the three
major credit bureaus.
2. Close any accounts that have
been tampered with or opened fraudulently.
Credit Accounts
Credit accounts include all accounts with banks, credit
card companies and other lenders, and phone companies,
utilities, ISPs, and other service providers.
If you’re closing existing accounts
and opening new ones, use new Personal Identification
Numbers (PINs) and passwords.
If there are fraudulent charges or
debits, ask the company about the following forms for
disputing those transactions:
For new unauthorized accounts, ask if the company
accepts the ID Theft Affidavit (available at www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/credit/affidavit.pdf
or in the Appendix
below). If they don’t, ask the representative
to send you the company’s fraud dispute forms.
For your existing accounts, ask the representative
to send you the company’s fraud dispute forms.
If your ATM card has been lost, stolen or otherwise
compromised, cancel the card as soon as you can. Get
a new card with a new PIN.
Checks
If your checks have been stolen or
misused, close the account and ask your bank to notify
the appropriate check verification service. While no
federal law limits your losses if someone steals your
checks and forges your signature, state laws may protect
you. Most states hold the bank responsible for losses
from a forged check, but they also require you to take
reasonable care of your account. For example, you may
be held responsible for the forgery if you fail to notify
the bank in a timely way that a check was lost or stolen.
Contact your state banking or consumer protection agency
for more information.
You also should contact these major
check verification companies. Ask that retailers who
use their databases not accept your checks.
TeleCheck —
1-800-710-9898 or 927-0188
Certegy, Inc. —
1-800-437-5120
International Check Services
— 1-800-631-9656
Call SCAN (1-800-262-7771) to find
out if the identity thief has been passing bad checks
in your name.
3. File a report with your
local police or the police in the community where the
identity theft took place.
Keep a copy of the report. You may need it to validate
your claims to creditors. If you can’t get a copy,
at least get the report number.
4. File a complaint with the
FTC.
By sharing your identity theft complaint
with the FTC, you will provide important information
that can help law enforcement officials track down identity
thieves and stop them. The FTC also can refer victim
complaints to other appropriate government agencies
and companies for further action. The FTC enters the
information you provide into our secure database.
To file a complaint or to learn more
about the FTC’s Privacy Policy, visit www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
If you don’t have access to the Internet, you
can call the FTC’s Identity Theft Hotline: toll-free
1-877-IDTHEFT (438-4338); TDD: 202-326-2502; or write:
Identity Theft Clearinghouse, Federal Trade Commission,
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20580.
Provide documentation. Furnish
as much documentation as you can to prove your
case. Debt collection letters, credit reports,
your notarized ID Theft Affidavit, and other
evidence of fraudulent activity can help the
police file a complete report.
Be persistent. Local authorities
may tell you that they can’t take a report.
Stress the importance of a police report; many
creditors require one to resolve your dispute.
Also remind them that under their voluntary
“Police Report Initiative,” credit
bureaus will automatically block the fraudulent
accounts and bad debts from appearing on your
credit report, but only if
you can give them a copy of the police report.
If you can’t get the local police to take
a report, try your county police. If that doesn’t
work, try your state police.
If you’re told that identity theft is
not a crime under your state law, ask to file
a Miscellaneous Incident Report instead. See
the list of state laws below.
Be a motivating force. Ask
your police department to search the FTC’s
Consumer Sentinel database for other complaints
in your community. You may not be the first
or only victim of this identity thief. If there
is a pattern of cases, local authorities may
give your case more consideration.
That’s why it’s
also important to file a complaint with the
FTC. Law enforcement agencies use complaints
filed with the FTC to aggregate cases, spot
patterns, and track growth in identity theft.
This information can then be used to improve
investigations and victim assistance.
Tips on Organizing
Your Case
Accurate and complete records
will greatly improve your chances of resolving
your identity theft case.
Follow up in writing with all contacts you’ve
made on the phone or in person. Use certified
mail, return receipt requested.
Keep copies of all correspondence or forms
you send.
Write down the name of anyone you talk to,
what he or she told you, and the date the conversation
occurred. Use Chart
Your Course of Action, below, to help you.
Keep the originals of supporting documentation,
like police reports, and letters to and from
creditors; send copies only.
Set up a filing system for easy access to
your paperwork.
Keep old files even if you believe your case
is closed. One of the most difficult and annoying
aspects of identity theft is that errors can
reappear on your credit reports or your information
can be re-circulated. Should this happen, you’ll
be glad you kept your files.
I applied for a loan
in November 2000 and was told I had bad credit. I requested
a credit report in November 2000 and found all sorts
of crazy information on it. I’m single but was
listed as married. When I renewed my driver’s
license by mail, I was surprised to find someone else’s
face on my license. This is a nightmare and requires
a large amount of my time.
From
a consumer complaint to the FTC, October 5, 2001
While resolving credit
problems resulting from identity theft can be time-consuming
and frustrating, the good news is that there are procedures
under federal laws for correcting credit report and
billing errors, and stopping debt collectors from contacting
you about debts you don’t owe. Here is a brief
summary of your rights, and what to do to clear up credit
problems that result from identity theft.
The Fair Credit Reporting
Act (FCRA) establishes procedures for correcting mistakes
on your credit report and requires that your report
be made available only for certain legitimate business
needs.
Under the FCRA, both
the credit bureau and the organization that provided
the information to the credit bureau (the “information
provider”), such as a bank or credit card company,
are responsible for correcting inaccurate or incomplete
information in your report. To protect your rights under
the law, contact both the credit bureau and the information
provider. It’s very important to follow the procedures
outlined below. Otherwise you won’t have any legal
recourse if you have a future dispute with the credit
bureau or an information provider about inaccurate information
that should be blocked from your report.
First, call the credit
bureau and follow up in writing. Tell them what information
you believe is inaccurate. Include copies (NOT originals)
of documents that support your position. If you don’t
have any paperwork from the creditor, send a copy of
the police report and the ID Theft Affidavit (in the
Appendix
below) In addition to providing your complete name and
address, your letter should clearly identify each item
in your report that you dispute, give the facts and
explain why you dispute the information, and request
deletion or correction. You may want to enclose a copy
of your report with circles around the items in question.
Your letter may look something like the sample
below. Send your letter by certified mail, return receipt
requested, so you can document what the credit bureau
received and when. Keep copies of your dispute letter
and enclosures.
The credit bureau’s
investigation must be completed within 30 days (45 days
if you provide additional documents). If the credit
bureau considers your dispute frivolous (which may mean
it believes you didn’t provide enough documentation
to support your claim), it must tell you so within five
business days. Otherwise, it must forward all relevant
documents you provide about the dispute to the information
provider. The information provider then must investigate,
review all relevant information provided by the credit
bureau, and report the results to the credit bureau.
If the information provider finds the disputed information
to be inaccurate, it must notify any nationwide credit
bureau to which it reports, so that the credit bureau
can correct this information in your file. Note that:
Disputed information that cannot be verified must
be deleted from your file.
If your report contains erroneous information,
the credit bureau must correct it.
If an item is incomplete, the credit bureau must
complete it. For example, if your file shows that
you have been late making payments, but fails to show
that you are no longer delinquent, the credit bureau
must show that you’re current.
If your file shows an account that belongs to someone
else, the credit bureau must delete it.
When the investigation
is complete, the credit bureau must give you the written
results and, if the dispute results in a change, a free
copy of your report. If an item is changed or removed,
the credit bureau cannot put the disputed information
back in your file unless the information provider verifies
its accuracy and completeness, and the credit bureau
gives you a written notice that includes the name, address
and phone number of the information provider.
If you ask, the credit
bureau must send notices of corrections to anyone who
received your report in the past six months. Job applicants
can have a corrected copy of their report sent to anyone
who received a copy during the past two years for employment
purposes. If an investigation does not resolve your
dispute, ask the credit bureau to include a 100-word
statement of the dispute in your file and in future
reports.
Second, in addition to
writing to the credit bureau, write to the creditor
or other information provider to tell them that you
dispute an item. Again, include copies (NOT originals)
of documents that support your position, like your police
report and the ID Theft Affidavit. Many information
providers specify an address for disputes. If the information
provider then reports the disputed item(s) to a credit
bureau, it must include a notice of your dispute. If
you’re correct that the disputed information is
not inaccurate, the information provider may not use
it again.
For more information,
see How to Dispute Credit Report Errors and Fair
Credit Reporting, from the FTC at www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
Credit Cards
In most cases, the Truth
in Lending Act limits your liability for unauthorized
credit card charges to $50 per card. The Fair Credit
Billing Act (FCBA) establishes procedures for resolving
billing errors on your credit card accounts. This includes
fraudulent charges on your accounts.
To take advantage of
the law’s consumer protections, you must:
write to the creditor at the address given for
“billing inquiries,” not the address for
sending your payments. Include your name, address,
account number and a description of the fraudulent
charge, including the amount and date of the error.
Your letter may look something like the sample
below.
send your letter so that it reaches the creditor
within 60 days from when the first bill containing
the fraudulent charge was mailed to you. If the address
on your account was changed by an identity thief and
you never received the bill, your dispute letter still
must reach the creditor within 60 days of when the
bill would have been mailed to you. This is why it’s
so important to keep track of your billing statements
and immediately follow up when your bills don’t
arrive on time.
Send your letter by certified
mail, return receipt requested. This will be your proof
of the date the creditor received the letter. Include
copies (NOT originals) of sales slips or other documents
that support your position. Keep a copy of your dispute
letter.
The creditor must acknowledge
your complaint in writing within 30 days after receiving
it, unless the problem has been resolved. The creditor
must resolve the dispute within two billing cycles (but
not more than 90 days) after receiving your letter.
For more information,
see Fair Credit Billing and Avoiding Credit
and Charge Card Fraud, from the FTC at www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
Debt Collectors
The Fair Debt Collection Practices
Act prohibits debt collectors from using unfair or deceptive
practices to collect overdue bills that a creditor has
forwarded for collection.
You can stop a debt collector from
contacting you by writing a letter to the collection
agency telling them to stop. Once the debt collector
receives your letter, the company may not contact you
again — with two exceptions: they can tell you
there will be no further contact and they can tell you
that the debt collector or the creditor intends to take
some specific action.
A collector also may not contact you
if, within 30 days after you receive the written notice,
you send the collection agency a letter stating you
do not owe the money.
Although your letter should stop the debt collector’s
calls and dunning notices, it will not necessarily get
rid of the debt itself, which may still turn up on your
credit report.
A collector can renew collection activities if you’re
sent proof of the debt. So, along with your letter stating
you don’t owe the money, include copies of documents
that support your position.
If you’re a victim of identity theft, include
a copy (NOT the original) of the police report. If you
don’t have documentation to support your position,
be as specific as possible about why the debt collector
is mistaken.
The debt collector is responsible for sending you proof
that you’re wrong. For example, if the debt in
dispute originates from a credit card you never applied
for, ask for the actual application containing the applicant’s
signature.You can then prove that it’s not your
signature on the application. In many cases, the debt
collector will not send you any proof, but will instead
return the debt to the creditor.
ATM Cards, Debit Cards and Electronic
Fund Transfers
The Electronic Fund Transfer Act provides
consumer protections for transactions involving an ATM
or debit card or any other electronic way to debit or
credit an account. It also limits your liability for
unauthorized electronic fund transfers.
It’s important to report lost
or stolen ATM and debit cards immediately because the
amount you can be held responsible for depends on how
quickly you report the loss.
If you report your ATM card lost or stolen within
two business days of discovering the loss or theft,
your losses are limited to $50.
If you report your ATM card lost or stolen after
the two business days, but within 60 days after a
statement showing an unauthorized electronic fund
transfer, you can be liable for up to $500 of what
a thief withdraws.
If you wait more than 60 days, you could lose all
the money that was taken from your account from the
end of the 60 days to the time you reported your card
missing.
The best way to protect yourself in
the event of an error or fraudulent transaction is to
call the financial institution and follow up in writing
— by certified letter, return receipt requested
— so you can prove when the institution received
your letter. Keep a copy of the letter you send for
your records.
After receiving notification about
an error on your statement, the financial institution
generally has 10 business days to investigate. The institution
must tell you the results of its investigation within
three business days after completing it and must correct
an error within one business day after determining that
the error has occurred. If the institution needs more
time, it may take up to 45 days to complete the investigation
— but only if the money in dispute is returned
to your account and you are notified promptly of the
credit. At the end of the investigation, if no error
has been found, the institution may take the money back
if it sends you a written explanation.
Note: VISA and MasterCard
voluntarily have agreed to limit consumers’ liability
for unauthorized use of their debit cards in most instances
to $50 per card, no matter how much time has elapsed
since the discovery of the loss or theft of the card.
For more information, see Electronic
Banking and Credit, ATM and Debit Cards: What
to Do If They’re Lost or Stolen, two consumer
publications from the FTC at www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
Proving
You’re a Victim, Not a Deadbeat
Unlike victims
of other crimes, who generally are treated with
respect and sympathy, identity theft victims often
find themselves having to prove that they’re
victims, too — not deadbeats trying to get
out of paying bad debts. So how do you go about
proving something you didn’t do? Getting
the right documents and getting them to the right
people is key.
The Police
Report: If you have a police report,
send a copy to Experian, Equifax and TransUnion.
They will block the information you’re disputing
from your credit reports. This may take up to
30 days. The credit bureaus have the right to
remove the block, if they believe it was wrongly
placed. Because this initiative is voluntary in
the vast majority of states, it’s important
to also follow the dispute procedures outlined
in “Credit
Reports,” above. Contact the credit
bureaus to find out more about how the “Police
Report Initiative” works. If you’re
having trouble getting a police report, see “Tips
on Filing a Police Report,” above.
The ID
Theft Affidavit: Since you didn’t
open the accounts in dispute or run up the related
debts, of course you don’t have any paperwork
showing you didn’t do these things. That’s
where the ID Theft Affidavit can be very helpful.
The FTC, in conjunction with banks, credit grantors
and consumer advocates, developed the ID Theft
Affidavit (see Appendix
below) to help you close unauthorized accounts
and get rid of debts wrongfully attributed to
your name. If you don’t have a police report
or any paperwork from creditors, send the completed
ID Theft Affidavit to the three major credit bureaus.
They will use it to start the dispute investigation
process. Not all companies accept the ID Theft
Affidavit. They may require you to use their forms
instead. Check first.
Creditor
Documentation: Getting documentation
from a creditor may be difficult. Creditors’
policies on confidentiality and record keeping
vary and may prevent you from getting the paperwork
you need to prove you didn’t make the transaction.
On the upside, most victims can get accounts closed
and debts dismissed by completing the creditor’s
fraud paperwork or the ID Theft Affidavit and
including a copy of your police report. Insist
on a letter from the creditor stating that they
have closed the disputed accounts and have discharged
you of the fraudulent debts. This letter is your
best defense if errors reappear or your personal
information gets re-circulated. (See "Tips
on Organizing Your Case," above). This
letter is also the best document to give credit
bureaus and debt collectors if your police report
and ID Theft Affidavit aren’t enough to
resolve your problems with them.
Complaint Department
Name of Credit Bureau
Address
City, State, Zip Code
Dear Sir or Madam:
I am writing to dispute the following information
in my file. The items I dispute also are circled
on the attached copy of the report I received.
(Identify item(s) disputed by name of source,
such as creditors or tax court, and identify type
of item, such as credit account, judgment, etc.)
I am a victim of
identity theft, and did not make the charge(s).
I am requesting that the item be blocked to correct
my credit report.
Enclosed are copies
of (use this sentence if applicable and describe
any enclosed documentation) supporting my position.
Please investigate this (these) matter(s) and
block the disputed item(s) as soon as possible.
Your Name
Your Address
Your City, State, Zip Code
Your Account Number
Name of Creditor
Billing Inquiries
Address
City, State, Zip Code
Dear Sir or Madam:
I am writing to dispute a fraudulent
(charge or debit) attributed to my account in
the amount of $______. I am a victim of identity
theft, and I did not make this (charge or debit).
I am requesting that the (charge be removed or
the debit reinstated), that any finance and other
charges related to the fraudulent amount be credited
as well, and that I receive an accurate statement.
Enclosed are copies of (use
this sentence to describe any enclosed information,
such as police report) supporting my position.
Please investigate this matter and correct the
fraudulent (charge or debit) as soon as possible.
Sincerely,
Your name
Enclosures: (List what you are
enclosing.)
FILING A COMPLAINT WITH THE FTC
IS IMPORTANT
If you’ve been a victim of identity
theft, file a complaint with the FTC by contacting the
FTC’s Identity Theft Hotline by telephone:
toll-free 1-877-IDTHEFT (438-4338);
TDD: 202-326-2502; by mail: Identity Theft Clearinghouse,
Federal Trade Commission,
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20580; or
online: www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
Although the FTC does not have the
authority to bring criminal cases, the Commission can
help victims of identity theft by providing information
to assist them in resolving the financial and other
problems that can result from this crime.
By sharing your identity theft complaint
with the FTC, you will provide important information
that can help law enforcement officials track down identity
thieves and stop them. The FTC also refers victim complaints
to other appropriate government agencies and private
organizations for further action.
Numerous federal and state agencies
have jurisdiction over specific aspects of identity
theft. If your theft relates to any of the following
categories, contact the agencies directly for help and
information or to initiate an investigation.
Bank Fraud
If you’re having trouble getting your financial
institution to help you resolve your banking-related
identity theft problems, including problems with bank-issued
credit cards, contact the agency with the appropriate
jurisdiction. If you’re not sure which of the
agencies listed below has jurisdiction over your institution,
call your bank or visit www.ffiec.gov/enforcement.htm.
Federal Deposit Insurance
Corporation (FDIC) — www.fdic.gov
The FDIC supervises state-chartered banks that are not
members of the Federal Reserve System and insures deposits
at banks and savings and loans.
Call the FDIC Consumer Call Center at 1-800-934-3342;
or write: Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation, Division
of Compliance and Consumer Affairs, 550 17th Street,
NW, Washington, DC 20429.
Federal Reserve System (Fed)
— www.federalreserve.gov
The Fed supervises state-chartered banks that are members
of the Federal Reserve System.
Call: 202-452-3693; or write: Division of Consumer and
Community Affairs, Mail Stop 801, Federal Reserve Board,
Washington, DC 20551; or contact the Federal Reserve
Bank in your area. The 12 Reserve Banks are located
in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Cleveland, Richmond,
Atlanta, Chicago, St. Louis, Minneapolis, Kansas City,
Dallas and San Francisco.
National Credit Union Administration
(NCUA) — www.ncua.gov
The NCUA charters and supervises federal credit unions
and insures deposits at federal credit unions and many
state credit unions.
Call: 703-518-6360; or write: Compliance Officer, National
Credit Union Administration, 1775 Duke Street, Alexandria,
VA 22314.
Office of the Comptroller
of the Currency (OCC) — www.occ.treas.gov
The OCC charters and supervises national banks. If the
word “national” appears in the name of a
bank, or the initials “N.A.” follow its
name, the OCC oversees its operations.
Call: 1-800-613-6743 (business days
9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. CST); fax: 713-336-4301; write:
Customer Assistance Group, 1301 McKinney Street, Suite
3710, Houston, TX 77010.
Office of Thrift Supervision
(OTS) — www.ots.treas.gov
The OTS is the primary regulator of all federal, and
many state-chartered, thrift institutions, which include
savings banks and savings and loan institutions.
Call: 202-906-6000; or write: Office of Thrift Supervision,
1700 G Street, NW, Washington, DC 20552.
If you believe someone has filed for
bankruptcy in your name, write to the U.S. Trustee in
the region where the bankruptcy was filed. A list of
the U.S. Trustee Programs’s Regional Offices is
available on the UST Web site, or check the Blue Pages
of your phone book under U.S. Government Bankruptcy
Administration.
Your letter should describe the situation
and provide proof of your identity. The U.S. Trustee,
if appropriate, will make a criminal referral to law
enforcement authorities if you provide appropriate documentation
to substantiate your claim. You also may want to file
a complaint with the U.S. Attorney and/or the FBI in
the city where the bankruptcy was filed. The U.S. Trustee
does not provide legal representation, legal advice
or referrals to lawyers. That means you may need to
hire an attorney to help convince the bankruptcy court
that the filing is fraudulent. The U.S. Trustee does
not provide consumers with copies of court documents.
Those documents are available from the bankruptcy clerk’s
office for a fee.
Criminal Violations
Although procedures to correct your
record within the criminal justice databases vary from
state to state, and even from county to county, the
following information can be used as a general guide.
If wrongful criminal violations are
attributed to your name, contact the arresting or citing
law enforcement agency — that is, the police or
sheriff’s department that originally arrested
the person using your identity, or the court agency
that issued the warrant for the arrest. File an impersonation
report. And have your identity confirmed: The police
department takes a full set of your fingerprints and
your photograph, and copies any photo identification
documents like your driver’s license, passport
or visa. Ask the law enforcement agency to compare the
prints and photographs with those of the imposter to
establish your innocence. If the arrest warrant is from
a state or county other than where you live, ask your
local police department to send the impersonation report
to the police department in the jurisdiction where the
arrest warrant, traffic citation or criminal conviction
originated.
The law enforcement agency should
then recall any warrants and issue a “clearance
letter” or certificate of release (if you were
arrested/booked). You’ll need to keep this document
with you at all times in case you’re wrongly arrested.
Also, ask the law enforcement agency to file, with the
district attorney’s (D.A.) office and/or court
where the crime took place, the record of the follow-up
investigation establishing your innocence. This will
result in an amended complaint being issued. Once your
name is recorded in a criminal database, it’s
unlikely that it will be completely removed from the
official record. Ask that the “key name,”
or “primary name,” be changed from your
name to the imposter’s name (or to “John
Doe” if the imposter’s true identity is
not known), with your name noted only as an alias.
You’ll also want to clear your
name in the court records. You’ll need to determine
which state law(s) will help you do this and how. If
your state has no formal procedure for clearing your
record, contact the D.A.’s office in the county
where the case was originally prosecuted. Ask the D.A.’s
office for the appropriate court records needed to clear
your name.
Finally, contact your state DMV to
find out if your driver’s license is being used
by the identity thief. Ask that your files be flagged
for possible fraud.
You may need to hire a criminal defense
attorney to help you clear your name. Contact Legal
Services in your state or your local bar association
for help in finding an attorney.
Fake Driver’s License
If you think your name or SSN is being
used by an identity thief to get a driver’s license
or a non-driver’s ID card, contact your DMV. If
your state uses your SSN as your driver’s license
number, ask to substitute another number.
Investment Fraud
U.S. Securities and Exchange
Commission (SEC) — www.sec.gov
The SEC’s Office of Investor Education and Assistance
serves investors who complain to the SEC about investment
fraud or the mishandling of their investments by securities
professionals. If you believe that an identity thief
has tampered with your securities investments or a brokerage
account, immediately report it to your broker or account
manager and to the SEC. You can file a complaint with
the SEC using the online Complaint Center at www.sec.gov/complaint.shtml.
Be sure to include as much detail as possible. If you
don’t have access to the Internet, you can write
to the SEC at: SEC Office of Investor Education and
Assistance, 450 Fifth Street, NW, Washington DC, 20549-0213.
For general questions, call 202-942-7040.
Mail Theft
U.S. Postal Inspection Service
(USPIS) — www.usps.gov/websites/depart/inspect
USPIS is the law enforcement arm of the U.S. Postal
Service responsible for investigating cases of identity
theft. USPIS has primary jurisdiction in all matters
infringing on the integrity of the U.S. mail. If an
identity thief has stolen your mail to get new credit
cards, bank or credit card statements, pre-screened
credit offers or tax information, has falsified change-of-address
forms, or obtained your personal information through
a fraud conducted by mail, report it to your local postal
inspector. You can locate the USPIS district office
nearest you by calling your local post office or checking
the list at the Web site above.
Passport Fraud
United States Department of
State (USDS) — www.travel.state.gov/passport_services.html
If you’ve lost your passport or believe it was
stolen or is being used fraudulently, contact the USDS
through their Web site or call a local USDS field office.
Local field offices are listed in the Blue Pages of
your telephone directory.
Phone Fraud
If an identity thief has established
phone service in your name, is making unauthorized calls
that seem to come from — and are billed to —
your cellular phone, or is using your calling card and
PIN, contact your service provider immediately to cancel
the account and/or calling card. Open new accounts and
choose new PINs. If you’re having trouble getting
fraudulent phone charges removed from your account or
getting an unauthorized account closed, contact the
appropriate agency from the list below.
For local service,
contact your state Public Utility Commission.
For cellular phones and long
distance, contact the Federal Communications
Commission (FCC) — www.fcc.gov.
The FCC regulates interstate and international communications
by radio, television, wire, satellite and cable. You
can contact the FCC’s Consumer Information Bureau
to find out about information, forms, applications and
current issues before the FCC. Call: 1-888-CALL-FCC;
TTY: 1-888-TELL-FCC; or write: Federal Communications
Commission, Consumer Information Bureau, 445 12th Street,
SW, Room 5A863, Washington, DC 20554. You can file complaints
via the online complaint form at www.fcc.gov,
or e-mail questions to fccinfo@fcc.gov.
Social Security Number Theft
and Misuse
Social Security Administration
(SSA) — www.ssa.gov
The SSA Office of the Inspector General investigates
cases of identity theft. Report allegations that an
SSN has been stolen or misused to the SSA Fraud Hotline.
Call: 1-800- 269-0271; fax: 410-597-0118; write: SSA
Fraud Hotline, P.O. Box 17768, Baltimore, MD 21235;
or e-mail: oig.hotline@ssa.gov.
Also call SSA at 1-800-772-1213 to
verify the accuracy of the earnings reported on your
SSN, and to request a copy of your Social Security Statement.
Follow up in writing.
Internal Revenue Service (IRS)
— www.treas.gov/irs/ci
The IRS is responsible for administering and enforcing
tax laws. If you believe someone has assumed your identity
to file federal Income Tax Returns, or to commit other
tax fraud, call toll-free: 1-800-829-0433. Victims of
identity theft who are having trouble filing their returns
should call the IRS Taxpayer Advocates Office, toll-free:
1-877-777-4778.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
— www.ftc.gov
The FTC is educating consumers and businesses about
the importance of personal information privacy. Here
are some additional publications you may find useful.
To request a free copy, call 1-877-FTC-HELP (382-4357)
or visit www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
• Getting Purse-onal: What
To Do If Your Wallet or Purse Is Stolen
• Identity Crisis... What to Do If Your Identity
Is Stolen
• Identity Thieves Can Ruin Your Good Name:
Tips for Avoiding Identity Theft
• Avoiding Credit and Charge Card Fraud
• Credit, ATM and Debit Cards: What to Do
If They’re Lost or Stolen
• Credit Card Loss Protection Offers: They’re
The Real Steal
• Electronic Banking
• Fair Credit Billing
• Fair Credit Reporting
• Fair Debt Collection
• How to Dispute Credit Report Errors
Federal Bureau of Investigation
(FBI) — www.fbi.gov
The FBI, a criminal law enforcement agency, investigates
cases of identity theft. The FBI recognizes that identity
theft
is a component of many crimes including bank fraud,
mail fraud, wire fraud, bankruptcy fraud, insurance
fraud, fraud against the government, and terrorism.
Local field offices are listed in the Blue Pages of
your telephone directory.
U.S. Secret Service (USSS)
— www.treas.gov/usss
The U.S. Secret Service investigates financial crimes,
which may include identity theft. Although the Secret
Service generally investigates cases where the dollar
loss is substantial, your information may provide evidence
of a larger pattern of fraud requiring their involvement.
Local field offices are listed in the Blue Pages of
your telephone directory.
The Identity Theft and Assumption
Deterrence Act, enacted by Congress in October 1998
(and codified, in part, at 18 U.S.C. §1028) is
the federal law making identity theft a crime.
Identity Theft and Assumption
Deterrence Act of 1998
The Identity Theft and Assumption Deterrence Act makes
it a federal crime when someone “knowingly transfers
or uses, without lawful authority, a means of identification
of another person with the intent to commit, or to aid
or abet, any unlawful activity that constitutes a violation
of federal law, or that constitutes a felony under any
applicable state or local law.”
Under the Act, a name or SSN is considered a “means
of identification.” So is a credit card number,
cellular telephone electronic serial number or any other
piece of information that may be used alone or in conjunction
with other information to identify a specific individual.
Violations of the Act are investigated
by federal law enforcement agencies, including the U.S.
Secret Service, the FBI, the U.S. Postal Inspection
Service, and SSA’s Office of the Inspector General.
Federal identity theft cases are prosecuted by the U.S.
Department of Justice.
In most instances, a conviction for identity theft carries
a maximum penalty of 15 years imprisonment, a fine and
forfeiture of any personal property used or intended
to be used to commit the crime. Pursuant to the Act,
the U.S. Sentencing Commission has developed federal
sentencing guidelines to provide appropriate penalties
for those persons convicted of identity theft.
Schemes to commit identity theft or fraud also may involve
violations of other statutes, such as credit card fraud,
computer fraud, mail fraud, wire fraud, financial institution
fraud, or Social Security fraud. Each of these federal
offenses is a felony and carries substantial penalties
— in some cases, as high as 30 years in prison
as well as fines and criminal forfeiture.
State Laws
Many states have passed laws related
to identity theft; others are considering such legislation.
Where specific identity theft laws do not exist, the
practices may be prohibited under other laws. Contact
your State Attorney General’s office (for a list
of state offices, visit www.naag.org)
or local consumer protection agency for laws related
to identity theft, or visit www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
State laws enacted at the time of this booklet’s
publication are listed below.
Instructions for Completing the
ID Theft Affidavit
To make certain that you do not become
responsible for the debts incurred by the identity thief,
you must provide proof that you didn’t create
the debt to each of the companies where accounts were
opened or used in your name.
A working group composed of credit
grantors, consumer advocates and the Federal Trade Commission
(FTC) developed this ID Theft Affidavit to help you
report information to many companies using just one
standard form. Use of this affidavit is optional for
companies. While many companies accept this affidavit,
others require that you submit more or different forms.
Before you send the affidavit, contact each company
to find out if they accept it.
You can use this affidavit where a
new account was opened
in your name. The information will enable the companies
to investigate the fraud and decide the outcome of your
claim. (If someone made unauthorized charges to an existing
account, call the company to find out what to
do.)
This affidavit has two parts:
ID Theft Affidavit
is where you report general information about yourself
and the theft.
Fraudulent Account Statement
is where you describe the fraudulent account(s) opened
in your name. Use a separate Fraudulent Account Statement
for each company you need to write to.
When you send the affidavit to the
companies, attach copies (NOT
originals) of any supporting documents (for example,
driver’s license, police report) you have. Before
submitting your affidavit, review the disputed account(s)
with family members or friends who may have information
about the account(s) or access to them.
Complete
this affidavit as soon as possible. Many creditors
ask that you send it within two weeks of receiving it.
Delaying could slow the investigation.
Be as accurate
and complete as possible. You may choose
not to provide some of the information requested. However,
incorrect or incomplete information will slow the process
of investigating your claim and absolving the debt.
Please print clearly.
When you have finished completing
the affidavit, mail a copy to each creditor, bank or
company that provided the thief with the unauthorized
credit, goods or services you describe. Attach to each
affidavit a copy of the Fraudulent Account Statement
with information only on accounts opened at the institution
receiving the packet, as well as any other supporting
documentation you are able to provide.
Send the
appropriate documents to each company by certified mail,
return receipt requested, so you can prove that
it was received. The companies will review your claim
and send you a written response telling you the outcome
of their investigation. Keep
a copy of everything you submit for your records.
If you cannot complete the affidavit,
a legal guardian or someone with power of attorney may
complete it for you. Except as noted, the information
you provide will be used only by the company to process
your affidavit, investigate the events you report and
help stop further fraud. If this affidavit is requested
in a lawsuit, the company might have to provide it to
the requesting party.
Completing this affidavit does not
guarantee that the identity thief will be prosecuted
or that the debt will be cleared.
If you haven’t already
done so, report the fraud to the following organizations:
1. Each of the three national
consumer reporting agencies. Ask each
agency to place a “fraud alert” on
your credit report, and send you a copy of your
credit file. When you have completed your affidavit
packet, you may want to send them a copy to help
them investigate the disputed accounts.
Equifax Credit Information
Services, Inc.
(800) 525-6285/ TDD 1-800-255-0056 and ask the
operator to call the Auto Disclosure Line at 1-800-685-1111
to obtain a copy of your report.
P.O. Box 740241, Atlanta, GA 30374-0241 www.equifax.com
Experian Information
Solutions, Inc.
(888) 397-3742/ TDD (800) 972-0322
P.O. Box 9532, Allen, TX 75013 www.experian.com
2. The fraud department
at each creditor, bank, or utility/service
that provided the identity thief with unauthorized
credit, goods or services. This would be a good
time to find out if the company accepts this affidavit,
and whether they require notarization or a copy
of the police report.
3. Your local police
department. Ask the officer to take a
report and give you a copy of the report. Sending
a copy of your police report to financial institutions
can speed up the process of absolving you of wrongful
debts or removing inaccurate information from
your credit reports. If you can’t get a
copy, at least get the number of the report.
4. The FTC, which maintains
the Identity Theft Data Clearinghouse —
the federal government’s centralized identity
theft complaint database — and provides
information to identity theft victims. You can
visit www.consumer.gov/idtheft
or calltoll-free 1-877-ID-THEFT
(1-877-438-4338).
The FTC collects complaints
from identity theft victims and shares their information
with law enforcement agencies nationwide. This
information also may be shared with other government
agencies, consumer reporting agencies, and companies
where the fraud was perpetrated to help resolve
identity theft-related problems.
ID Theft Affidavit
Print
the Affidavit, and then fill it out. This is not an
online form.
Victim
Information
(1) My full legal name is ___________________________________________________________________________________
(First) (Middle) (Last) (Jr., Sr., III)
(2) (If different from above) When the events described
in this affidavit took place, I was known as
(3) My date of birth is ____________________
(day/month/year)
(4) My Social Security number is________________________________
(5) My driver’s license or identification
card state and number are ______________________________________________________________
(6) My current address is __________________________________________________________
City ___________________________ State _________________
Zip Code ______________
(7) I have lived at this address since
____________________ (month/year)
(8) (If different from above) When
the events described in this affidavit took place, my
address was _____________________________________________________________________________________
City ___________________________ State _________________
Zip Code____________________
(9) I lived at the address in Item
8 from __________ (month/year) until __________ (month/year)
(10) My daytime telephone number is
(____)____________________
My evening telephone number is (____)____________________
How
the Fraud Occurred
Check all that apply for items
11 - 17:
(11)
I did not authorize anyone to use my name or personal
information to seek the money, credit, loans, goods
or services described in this report.
(12)
I did not receive any benefit, money, goods or services
as a result of the events described in this report.
(13)
My identification documents (for example, credit cards;
birth certificate; driver’s license;Social Security
card; etc.) were
stolen
lost on or about __________________ (day/month/year).
(14)
To the best of my knowledge and belief, the following
person(s) used my information (for example, my name,
address, date of birth, existing account numbers, Social
Security number, mother’s maiden name, etc.) or
identification documents to get money, credit,loans,
goods or services without my knowledge or authorization:
(15)
I do NOT know who used my information or identification
documents to get money,credit, loans, goods or services
without my knowledge or authorization.
(16)
Additional comments: (For example, description of the
fraud, which documents or information were used or how
the identity thief gained access to your information.)
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
(Attach additional pages as necessary.)
Victim’s
Law Enforcement Actions
(17) (check one) I
am
am not willing to assist in the prosecution of the person(s)
who committed this fraud.
(18) (check one) I
am
am not authorizing the release of this information to
law enforcement for the purpose of assisting them in
the investigation and prosecution of the person(s) who
committed this fraud.
(19) (check all that apply) I
have
have not reported the events described in this affidavit
to the police or other law enforcement agency. The police
did
did not write a report. In the event you have contacted
the police or other law enforcement agency, please complete
the following:
Please indicate the supporting documentation
you are able to provide to the companies you plan to
notify. Attach copies (NOT originals) to the affidavit
before sending it to the companies.
(20)
A copy of a valid government-issued photo-identification
card (for example, your driver’s license, state-issued
ID card or your passport). If you are under 16 and don’t
have a photo-ID, you may submit a copy of your birth
certificate or a copy of your official school records
showing your enrollment and place of residence.
(21)
Proof of residency during the time the disputed bill
occurred, the loan was made or the other event took
place (for example, a rental/lease agreement in your
name, a copy of a utility bill or a copy of an insurance
bill).
(22)
A copy of the report you filed with the police or sheriff’s
department. If you are unable to obtain a report or
report number from the police, please indicate that
in Item 19. Some companies only need the report number,
not a copy of the report. You may want to check with
each company.
Signature
I declare under penalty of perjury
that the information I have provided in this affidavit
is true and correct to the best of my knowledge.
Knowingly submitting false
information on this form could subject you to criminal
prosecution for perjury.
______________________________________
(Notary)
[Check with each company. Creditors
sometimes require notarization. If they do not, please
have one witness (non-relative) sign below that you
completed and signed this affidavit.]
Make as many copies
of this page as you need. Complete a
separate page for each company you’re
notifying and only send it to that company.
Include a copy of your signed affidavit.
List only the account(s)
you’re disputing with the company receiving
this form. See the example below.
If a collection agency
sent you a statement, letter or notice about
the fraudulent account, attach a copy of that
document (NOT the original).
I declare (check all that
apply):
As a result of the event(s) described in the ID Theft
Affidavit, the following account(s) was/were opened
at your company in my name without my knowledge, permission
or authorization using my personal information or identifying
documents:
Creditor Name/Address (the company that opened the account or provided
the goods or services)
Account Number
Type of unauthorized credit/goods/services
provided by creditor (if known)
Date issued or opened (if known)
Amount/Value provided (the amount charged or the cost of the
goods/services)
(Example)
National Bank
22 Main Street
Columbus, Ohio 22722
(Example)
01234567-89
(Example)
auto loan
(Example)
01/05/2002
(Example)
$25,500.00
During the time of the accounts described above, I had
the following account open with your company:
Billing name ____________________________________________________________________
Billing address__________________________________________________________________
Account number __________________________________________________________________
DO NOT
SEND AFFIDAVIT TO THE FTC OR
ANY OTHER GOVERNMENT AGENCY
The
FTC’s Privacy Policy
To file a complaint or to learn
more about the FTC’s Privacy Policy, visit
www.consumer.gov/idtheft.
If you don’t have access to the Internet,
you can
call the FTC’s Identity Theft Hotline: toll-free
1-877-IDTHEFT (438-4338);
TDD: 202-326-2502; or write: Identity Theft Clearinghouse,
Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue,
NW, Washington, DC 20580.
The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive
and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information
to help consumers spot, stop and avoid them. To file a
complaint or to get free
information on consumer issues, visit www.ftc.gov
or call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357); TTY: 1-866-653-4261. The
FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, identity theft and other fraud-related complaints
into
Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil
and criminal law enforcement agencies in the U.S. and abroad.