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The ancient temple shimmered in the tropic sun; the gold encrusted shrines glittered; in the big pool the fish glided lazily amongst dappled shadows; high on the hill the President's Palace stood in majestic silence.

Pilgrims flocked through the temple gates, undressed, placed their clothes in neat piles and stepped joyfully into the coot water of the Springs - women on one side, men on the other, modestly divided by a low stone wall. Laughter and chatter filled the air as families and friends joined each other under the spouting fountains.

A busload of stocky German tourists tramped in, arrogantly aimed their cameras at the bathers and protested angrily when asked to move on; a group of Japanese followed on their heels. Everyone in Bali had come to Tampaksiring that day - everyone except Nyoman.

Around the shrines and in the Springs I sought him. What could have delayed him Nothing short of disaster could keep him from this special festival. Well, no point in lingering, best go back and check.

As we edged our way slowly back along the traffic jammed roads, I pondered for a moment what strange quirk of fate had landed me on this, the busiest day of the year, with such a large cumbersome car.


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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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