Advantages |
RANTEPAO A focal point for
tourists visiting Torajan villages and sites, right in, the center of
their traditional territory. The police will come around personally to
your hotel room and collect the 'tourist tax' of Rp1000; institutionalized
rotteness. Cash money in Bank Rakyat opposite the post office. It only
takes a couple of days to get to know your way around this small town.
See western and Indonesian films at the Apollo Bioskop, Rp200. There are
tailors opposite the Apollo cinema who'll make up anything for you, traditional
designs or otherwise. Magic mushrooms (blue meanies) are around the outskirts
of Rantepao; got to look for them. stay: A nice clean place is Wisma Pola
by the soccerfield, Rp500, and they have rooms to accommodate four. Losmen
Flora, behind a brilliant flowering tree, is also Rp500; clean, opposite
the mosque yet quiet. Losmen Peng. Harapan is opposite Restaurant Rachmat,
above a souvenir shop, Rp500; clean and as central as you can get but
the clanging ironsmith will drive you batty. Wisma Maria (speak to Roy,
he's quite informed) is the most expensive hotel in town, but very comfortable.
Losmen Palawa, Rp600-1000, has nice rooms with toilets. Peng. Ria, JI.
Mapanuki 18, is Rp500; dark and out-of-the-way, but the wood is gorgeous.
Wisma Rosa, Rp1500 with a mandi in each room, is on the edge of town on
a country road with village people going by 25 m in front of your porch
all day long. eat: Restaurant Segar is cheap; eat excellently for Rp250-300.
It's right next to the Pentecostal church (beautiful singing on Sundays!).
Restaurant Rachmat has a menu in 5 languages including Japanese; you're
not the first. Good food, but on the expensive side. Misiliana Restaurant
Art Shop (and a losmen upstairs) has good food as well, about the same
prices as Rachmat. The 3 warungs opposite Misiliana are much cheaper;
soto ayam, Rp75; nasi telur and campur, Rp100, etc. Try special Torajan
food in the warungs in the marketplace: steamed rice, buffalo meat, pig
fat, vegetables, chilies, tuak. Ne Pande is open everyday but has a bigger
selection on market day. Try bale and lada (fish and chilies). Visit the
dog market. At nights go to the tuak places near the Apollo Theatre; jamming
every evening with young guitarists and tourists.
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we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between
two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists
of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided
in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The
former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still
considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely
purified ancestors who are considered as divine. Everything Bali Indonesia |