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DONGGALA
By minibus from Palu 35 km over a winding coastal road, passing villages
on stilts and night fishermen. Donggala is a small friendly Muslim port,
pleasant to spend a few days in. Good walks. sights: There's a movie house
just down the street from Peng. Anda. Climb Bale Hill to get a good view
of Donggala's harbor of sleek sailing vessels. Little village on the top.
One boatwright works in Donggala. Walk 3 km out to Tanjung Karang; glistening
clear water with a panorama of giant sails and a long white beach, very
relaxing. Restaurant Karang Ria with hostesses and cold Rp500 beers. stay:
Peng. Anda, Rp400, though central, must be the dumpiest hotel in all of
Sulawesi; you fall through the floorboards on the way to the toile* and
children peer at you from cracks underneath the building. Better deal
and more private is Peng. Bruri, Rp550; take a left just after the bridge
going into town from Palu, it's about 1 % km from the harbor. A clean,
comfortable family-run place is Wisma Donggala, Rp2000 double, Rp2500
triple; meals cost Rp5-750. eat: The vegetable and fruit market, open
everyday, is incredibly well-stocked for its size. Superkitsch Toko 39,
complete with Charles Bronson calendar, has lots of most everything; try
their hot Quaker Oats drink. Restaurant Dinda for Chinese food; one cap
cai kua (Rp300) is enough for two. Gembira also specializes in Chinese
food. Lots of places to eat. from Donggala: Catch motorboats north to
Sabang. Sometimes small ships chug across to Balikpapan and to Samarinda
(East Kalimantan) from Donggala. Ask the Sriwijaya Lines or the P.T. Indrapura
office on the waterfront about ships to Ujung Pandang; at least one ship
weekly, Rp10,450, takes 3 days. For Ujung Pandang it's cheaper to get
on a ship only as far as Pare Pare (Rp4000), then from Pare Pare (cheap
losmens), it's Rpl150 by bus south to Ujung Pandang. P.T. Indrapura also
has ships weekly to: Surabaya, Rp17,200, 4-5 days; Jakarta, Rp21,150;
and about twice a month to Manado, Rp14,250, two days.
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we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between
two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists
of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided
in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The
former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still
considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely
purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated.
Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the
redemption of their souls.
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