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MAMASA
The West Torajan culture of Mamasa district is considerably less exploited than the cultures found around Rantepao. The road to Mamasa is pure hell.This is why Mamasa is the way it is, a quiet little town high in the mountains, cold when the evening mist sets in. Immaculately clean, even the market. Bring cash, there are no banks. See Ray Pwatapana, a regency officer, who really knows the area well. vicinity of Mamasa: Walk to Orbua, 6 km, for 200 year old adat houses. No corrugated iron here, the old ways still exist. Visit Rambu Seratu hot medicinal springs on the Toliwali Road, a pretty walk getting there: Pare Pare is Rp1150 by bus from Ujung Pandang. From Pare Pare take bus lo Polewali, Rp600. Or take a bus direct from Ujung Pandang to Polewali for Rp1450. Stay overnight in Polewali at Peng. Polmas, Rp250, or with the kepala desa. No matter where you stay, always take your valuables with you, even when you go to the mandi. The police chief might come around personally to check your passport. The next day, if you're lucky, there will be a jeep up to Mamasa. If not, may have to wait around for a couple of days. The driver may try to overcharge you up to Rp2500, but knock him down to Rp1500. Afterall, it's only 70 km. Jeeps sometimes break down on the way, then you must walk in.

MAKALE
17 km south of Rantepao. Makale overlooks a lotus lake and there's a good bazaar. Fewer tourists stay here than in Rantepao. Many good day-walks in the vicinity and the bemo and bus connections for Torajaland and to the south are frequent. stay: Losmen Merry is like a freak's Waldorf Astoria; very nice lounge, big canopy beds, Rp500. Wisma Hasanudin,.Jl. Pong Tiku, charges Rp1500-2000. Wisma Maria, JI. Ratulangi, is quite popular; Rp2000. walks from Makale: Walk up the highway 4 km north of Makale, turn east to Sangalla' and walk 8 km where you'll find the turn south to Makula', a natural swimming pool and hotsprings. Spend the night at the resthouse in Makula. On the way back to Makale see the king's house at Buntukalando and the king's grave and statue at Suaya. Buntukalando: Near Sangalla'. A king's palace and a big ceremonial field surrounded by bamboo houses. See the 'museum' of royal possessions, and the Tongkonan house. Torajan handicrafts are very cheap: handsome handwoven blankets (sedo nandi orrindun lolal) for Rp5000-5500. Each piece has a religious significance. Also bamboo and woodcarvings. Tondon: From this village it's an easy walk to the Gua Erong graves. Kandora: 5 km. An old palace on top of a mountain. Banua Puan Marinding: Another old ruined palace 8 km south of Mengkendek. Pa'tengko: 20 km south. Rice terraces and lovely mountain scenery. for Mamesa: Walk to Rembon where there's a marketplace and a sweeping panorama, then on to Se'seng for its natural swimming pool. Next hike to Bittuang (a total of 60 km from Makale) before continuing on to Mamasa, a 2-3 day walk from Bittuang. Or take the jeep, Rp500, that leaves daily or every other day from Makale to Bittuang.



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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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