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KOTAMOBAGU
Mountain capital of the Bolaang Mongondow district, 218 km from Manado.
From Manado's Stasiun Otobis, a punishing Rp1500 seven hour busride. An
attractive clean Muslim town, fr4i3ndly people. Gets only about 5-10 European
tourists a month. Buy leather army boots here, about Rp3-4000. Stay and
eat: Losmen Lely is the cheapest at Rp1000. Losmen Tenteram, opposite
Losmen Lely, Rp750 (but only Rp500 for Indonesians). Hotel Sarinah, Rp1000
for sleep or with meals Rp3000. Wisma Kabela, Rp750, has a swimming pool
and a nice garden out in the back; relaxed people. Lots of market stalls
for budget eating. Nasional Restaurant for Chinese-style food and drink.
from Kotamobagu: Catch buses from Kotamobagu down a forested twisting
river road to Inobonto, Rp500. alternative route to Gorontalo: Take bus
Rp500 to Doluduo,'60 km. From Duluduo, walk 20 km to Molibagu on a good
easy track, a bit up and down. From Molibagu, there's a small boat leaving
2-3 times a week to Gorontalo, Rp750. It doesn't operate from July to
September due to big seas and easterly winds. vicinity of Kotamobagu:
It's a nice day-visit to Bilalang village, 3 km from town, Rp100 by bemo.
More enjoyable is to take a bendi there for Rp400. Every Sun. a 1000 m
horserace (with betting on the side) takes place at Togop; free entry.
Ten km from Kotamobagu or 3 km from Tobonon is Modayag, a cool high goldmine
village. Stay at the pasangrahan.
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we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between
two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists
of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided
in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The
former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still
considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely
purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated.
Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the
redemption of their souls.
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