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DENPASAR
Capital of Bali
and the largest city on the island. The local name is Badung. This typical
middle-sized Indonesian community is still small (pop. 100,000) but growing.
It's like Luna Park 24 hours a day, a hot dirty smelly noisy dusty city
that gives you a headache when you visit it for a morning from Kuta Beach.
Few charms. Buy quality pre-recorded tapes for only Rp500 along the main
street. The best bank to have your bread sent is Bank Bumi Daya, JI. Veteran;
they will cash most kinds of traveler's cheques.
Eat: There are a large number of foodstalls everywhere in Denpasar; eat
good for Rp200-250. On Gang Kresna, opposite the traffic police station
on JI. Gadjah Mada, warungs serve cap cai and mie goreng, Rp100. Go to
the open-air night market on JI. Kartini after 6 pm for noodle soups,
fried rice, excellent martabak (Rp50-100), roast pork lRp150), good chocolate
donuts. Try steaming kue putu, smothered in coconut shavings, Rp10. A
splendid place to visit at night with thousands of milling people of all
ages, races and nations; fresh killed goats hang above grills, boys play
Balinese checkers with beercaps and stones on the sidewalk. For Javanese
food, try Warung Indonesia, JI. Veteran. For nasi padang, Pagi Sore, JI.
Gadjah Mada, is about the best. Go to Sabi Guling Gianyar, JI. Hasanudin
in front of Pemucutan Hotel, for babi guling, Rp200. Sumber Rasa, JI.
Gadjah Mada 34; and Rumah Makan Ria, JI. Gadjah Mada 102, for dove (burung
dara), Rp800; also tasty pork and chicken dishes. Atom Baru, JI. Gadjah
Mada 98, good. At Delicious Restaurant, JI. Kartini, the turtle steak
and frogs' legs are still excellent. For Chinese food try Polaris, JI.
Sulawesi; or Sie Fu, right behind Bank Negara. For lashing out or to escape
the heat and sellers, go to Restoran Puri Seleri, right opposite Bank
Rakyat Indonesia on JI. Gadjah Mada, or the Bali Sky, JI. Kartini. Puri
Ice Cream Palace on JI. Beliton serves outrageous sundaes.
Hitch: First to Gilamanuk, then take the ferry to the other side. Ask
the vehicles on the boat for a ride onward through Java. motorbike: Can
travel north to Singaraja via Mengwi in a day but that's rushing it. This
road through Bedugal is in better condition and faster than the one through
Penelokan. Bring warm clothes because in the highlands the temperature
drops by as much as 10 degrees. hiking: North of Celuk take the path that
runs parallel to the river all the way to Ubud, 10 km. In this strip of
land between the Dos and Petanu Rivers there are numerous antiquities:
broken basreliefs, rock monasteries, Hindu statues scattered over fields;
some dating from the early Balinese period which began in the 11th Century.
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