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wamena This settlement,
like Katmandhu, is surrounded by mountain ranges, some of the peaks snowcapped.
The plane fare from Jayapura is over US$30 but it is money well spent.
If any tourists ever visit Wamena it comes in bursts- 30 Germans at a
time or 20 Dutchmen, etc. See the odd one or two Javanese tourists or
pegawi getting their pictures taken while grinning beside wily spear-holding
natives in front of Hotel Negara. Stock up on film in Jayapura where it's
cheaper. In Wamena market, they scalp you on everything. There's even
a beat radio station in Wamena. stay: A bit of a problem, it's too dear.
Hotel Negara is Rp5500 per person and it's areal hole. Pertamina runs
the finest deluxe hotel in all of East Indonesia here; only US$45 singles
or US$70 doubles; each unit is named after a tribe and each toilet has
a Japanese garden. Much cheaper is Art Losmen run by Arnold Maun at Rp1000
per head. Take the road to Akima, it's 300 m past the market on the left.
Arnold knows about the Baliem Valley and can give advice about artifacts.
Lovely outhouses and lily ponds with shit-eating fish in back of his losmen.
eat: Buy Baliem Valley wild bee honey (madu) for about Rp1000 per big
jar; smoky, thick or thin. A whole string of 12-15 fish from a Dani costs
Rp4-500; cook them up yourself. Good sugar donuts are for sale all over
town, Rp50. A friendly place is Ujung Kali behind Hotel Negara; most dishes
in this warung must be ordered the day or morning before; great gado2.
Or eat at the small restaurant behind Kommando Distrik Militer, but they
seldom have all that you see on the menu. Settle price of each dishbefore
you eat, as they tend to overcharge. On the wall check out the framed
photo of Wyn Sergeant, a female journalist from California who arrived
in the Baliem in 1974 to make a film of the Danis. While here she married
a Dani chieftan, Hukum Hearek, and it is said that she tried to start
a war between two tribes in order to make a film of it. She also accused
Indonesian officials of beating Danis (quite true). The Indonesians, who
are still a bit tender over their administration of Irian, were not amused
and promptly threw her out.
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we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between
two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists
of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided
in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The
former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still
considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely
purified ancestors who are considered as divine. Everything Bali Indonesia |
