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KUTA


10 km south of Denpasar, Rpwby bemo. A longer beach than Sanur's, arching out of sight. Splendid tropical sunsets, equinox low, wide, and psychedelic. At least 4 out of 10 visitors are Australian. Peak vacation time is December. Although hundreds of travelers, vacationers, and tourists are turning Kuta into a middle class resort, it's still one of the cheapest travelers' enclaves in the world. Package-tourists high on money have metamorphosed this village. They pay too much money for services and crafts, drive prices up, spoil the people, use the beach as a drag strip for their motorcycles. It gets more hectic as the August holiday season nears with increasing numbers of French and German charter flights. Electricity is gradually coming in and most of the roads are now paved. In the dark undulating back lanes of Kuta at night you could meet pubescent pushers selling smack, pimps and Javanese hookers, bearded bicycle riders off to the beach, middle-aged Swiss couples on their way to Poppies, white children going home with flashlights, night walkers, Balinese and Javanese roaring by on their motorcycles, village fishermen setting off, farmers going home. Anybody. You might meet the guy who started the sarung craze in southern California, or your exhusband. The whole complex of this bamboo city is like Ibiza or Mallorca, just without the wine. Kuta is now expanding towards Legian, and Legian is now but an extension of Kuta. There are still good Kris Dances with gas lamps glowing, but it now costs Rp4-700 to get into many of the dances. Watch your gear, the stealing's getting bad (the Balinese say, 'It's the Javanese.'). You can see the prices go up by the week. The place is thick with sellers; always someone wanting to sell you something. In fact, you could end up spending more money on Kuta than anywhere else on the island simply because there are more things to buy. Unless you're in a group, it's not safe anymore to walk along the Kuta-Legian beach late at night. Already Kuta needs a better trash disposal system than the dogs. Covarrubias says that its dogs are the one thing which keep Bali from being perfect. The miserable anjings abound - mangy, flea-bitten bags of skin, bones, and open sores. Don't die on Bali. You might come back as a dog.

From Kuta: There's a path running parallel to Legian Road that starts from just beside Kubu Krishna and leads all the way through ricefields and kampungs to Legian. Tanah Lot:- Walk eight hours up and back from Kuta to this pagoda-like temple sitting on an eroded rock offshore. Reach it also from Kediri by taking a side road which ends on a green hill that slopes down to the beach. (Snakes sleep in the rocky holes along the beach.) Tanah Lot looks like a Chinese painting. Ironically, this temple was built by one of the last priests to come to Bali from Java, Sang Hiyang Nirarta, a man remembered for his successful efforts in strengthening the religious beliefs of the people. Anything even faintly resembling a spiritual atmosphere is dissipated by money-obsessed Balinese at the temple who ask you for money to park your bike (Rp25), hire a sash to enter ('It's up to you.'), enter the temple, and at the Shiva shrine in the temple ('It's up to you.') On this south coast of Bali there's a whole series of sea temples: Pura Sekenan, Pura Ulu Watu, Pura Rambut Siwi, Pura Petitenget. All pay homage to the guardian spirits of the sea. tours: Tour companies offer minibus tours of the island, 7 or 8 people to a bus. Sample tours: On the Singaraja Tour, Rp2000, you visit Bedugal, Lake Bratan Temple, Gitgit, Singaraja, Sangsit, Kubutambahan, Sanih Beach. Leaves Kuta at 8:15 am and gets back around 4 pm. On the Besakih Tour, Rp1600, visit Batubulan, Celuk, Batuan, Mas, Gianyar, Klungkung, Gerta Gosa, Bukit Jambul, Besakih. Leaves at 8:15 and ends at 4 p.m. for Java: Long-distance buses leave Kuta from the Gita Bali Office on Kuta Beach Road; to Surabaya, 12 hours, Rp1750; Yogya, 20 hours, Rp3000. Honey Holidays, JI. Bunisari, also has buses to Yogya, Rp3000, starting from in front of their office at 4:30 pm, arriving 22 hours later; to Surabaya, Rp1750, departs at 4:30 and arrives 10 hours later. The Sari Express is just as fast, but it's air-conditioned so it's twice as expensive.

 

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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