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it would be in order to charge him amusement tax. Later i came to realise that the tourist is to the Balinese what the TV set is to the European - a perpetual source of. Entertainment - better still, the tourist comes gift-wrapped, and free!

But now, all I could think of was my waiting taxi - and, truth to tell, the more I saw of those heron birds, the less I liked them. Putting my empty glass firmly down on the table, I thanked the woodcarver and headed for the door, using another phrase highly

Recommended by the guidebook... "Perhaps, later."

This fooled no-one, least of all the Balinese, who helped me courteously into the car, remarking earnestly as he closed the door .... .. Last price $42 - very good price. Nyonya should take the birds.... Nyonya have bad dreams if she doesn't."

"Not half as bad as the nightmares I'll have if I pay that price." I hastened to tell him, unsure now whether to be Scourge or M idas. After all, tourists were flocking to Bali. What if carvings became so trendy they were all bought up? Who knows what profit I could make on mine. Though, if past experience was any guide if prices rose my birds would undoubtedly be riddled with borer.

For ten minutes more I carried on like this - then I stopped the driver and drove back to the woodcarver. It was like turning back the clock. I was again seated at the low table, the carving taken down off the shelf and placed before me.

"Best price $42,- said the woodcarver, smiling happily. Half an hour later I left, the carving under my arm. In that time the Balinese had come down $4.


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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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