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Intrigued with the name of the Festival, I hired a car and set off. Actually, I would have preferred a motorbike, but the guide took one look at me and advised "At your age - better take car."

So, here 1 was, lolling back in the taxi, listening to gamelan music on the casette and watching mile after mile oil utterly unreal scenery roll past. Until we arrived at Besakih, and there stood Mother Temple, framed against a background of mists and cloud, mul muls flying. ceremonial umbrellas unfurled, her steps and

This, then, was the programme we were waiting to see as we

sat in the Peliatan courtyard, watching a small boy slowly climbing over an elaborately carved split-gate, placing a lighted candle in every niche. In the foreground, flanked by banners and ceremonial umbrellas, squatted the gamelan orchestra, their instruments gleaming in the glow of kerosene lamps.

The two drummers exchange nods, the hammers are supended in mid-air, then suddenly crash down in unison - to send a shower of crystal notes shimmering and quivering through the velvety night air.

The dancers come - unreal characters; incredibly beautiful costumes - their bodies rigidly controlled, faces masklike, eyes enlarged; their long sensitive fingers curved backwards and fluttering delicately as butterfly. wings stirred by a summer breeze.

The tempo of the music changes. Dance after dance unfolds until, at last, the little metal hammers give a final crash, followed by a tinkling ripple.

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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