Kuala Lumpur
In 130 years, Kuala Lumpur has grown from nothing to a modern, bustling city of well over a million people. Superficially, KL (as it's almost universally known) may appear to be just another modern Asian city of gleaming skyscrapers, but it retains much of the character and local colour that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as Singapore. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its centre, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India.
When KL does something, it likes to do it big. The twin Petronas Towers skyscrapers - the tallest building in the world - dominate the skyline, while in Merdeka Square stands a 95m (312ft) flagpole. Despite the economic crisis, Kuala Lumpur is currently the site of large-scale development, with work underway on a new US$8 billion city on the southern fringe of the capital as well as an adjoining 'ultra-high-tech multimedia supercorridor'. Before the Asian economic crisis hit in 1997 there were also plans to build the world's longest building, too.
Population:1.8 million
Country: Malaysia
People: 59% Malays and various indigenous groups, 32% Chinese, 9% Indian
Main language: Bahasa Malay, Chinese, English, Tamil
Time Zone: GMT/UTC+8
Telephone Area Code: 603Orientation
Malaysia is divided into two regions - Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia - with Kuala Lumpur in Selangor province near the west coast of the Peninsular. The traditional heart of the city is Merdeka Square, easily spotted because of the 95m (312ft) flag pole - reputedly the world's tallest. KL is a relatively easy city to navigate, with major north-south thoroughfares assisting in the speedy movement of people. At peak hour(s) however the city resembles most other industrialised cities in the world, and the air - already dripping with humidity - gets thick with smog. Travelling around the city on foot can be a frustrating experience. New six-lane roads and overhead fly-overs divide the city with no thought to pedestrian traffic.
South-east of Merdeka Square, the banking district merges into the bustling, old China Town, where travellers can find a wealth of accommodation and restaurant options. Due south of the square, past the main post office is the historic KL train station, while further west is the 'green belt', housing the Lake Gardens, National Museum and Monument and the Malaysian Parliament.
Along with the station, the major transport hub in KL is Puduraya bus station, on the eastern edge of the central district. South-east of the station is the site of KL Sentral (Central Station) which - when completed - will be the main public transport hub. The international airport, KLIA, is located some 43 km (27 mi) south of the city. The trip to town takes about 90 minutes.
Attractions
Merdeka Square
Site of the proclamation of independence in 1957, the square - formerly known as Padang - is the centre of National Day celebrations. Surrounding the square are many buildings of historical interest, including the Royal Selangor Club where KL's elite meet, the Sultan Abdul Samad building, which is a great example of the Victorian-Moorish architecture common to Malaysian cities, the National History Museum and library and the impressive, modern Dayabumi Complex. The square is in the heart of downtown KL, near the convergence of the Kelang and Gombak rivers.Chinatown
KL's Chinatown is a crowded colourful melange of signs, shops, activity and noise. The central section, Jalan Petaling, is a frantically busy market that is closed to traffic. It is most spectacular at night, when the combination of street stalls, food, haggling and bright lights makes impressions on all five senses. The old buildings - undergoing constant restoration by conservation groups - are interesting in themselves, while bargain-hunters and collectors of kitsch might be in luck as well. Chinatown is about 300m (330 yards) south-east of Merdeka Square.Lake Gardens
When the bustle gets too much, head to the 'green belt' - 92 hectares (227 acres) of planned parkland less than 1 km (0.6 mi) west of the central city. The main focus of the park is Tasik Perdana - the Premier Lake - where locals and visitors cavort on the banks or in little paddle boats. Attractions in the park can be reached either on-foot, or by regular shuttle buses. If you're into the birds, Bird Park is an enormous walk-in aviary boasting about 160 species from throughout South-East Asia. If the bees are more your thing, you might get lucky at the nearby Orchid Garden, where 800 species of flower vie for your attention. There are also sections of the gardens dedicated to tame deer and butterflies. From the gardens, you can also see the massive bronze National Monument, Parliament House and the Planetarium.Golden Triangle
If all of KL's peace, quiet and culture is getting to you, head to the high-rise-heavy Golden Triangle: a small city in itself, dominated by the tallest building in the world, the Petronas Towers. Surrounded on all sides by shopping, commerce and entertainment outlets, you'll feel like you're in another country altogether. This area contains all the expensive hotels and restaurants, with nightlife not for the budget-conscious. Visitors will enjoy the Kuala Lumpur Tower - the fourth-highest telecommunications tower in the world - with superb panoramic views on offer from the observation deck.When to Go
It's hot and humid throughout Malaysia all year round, with overnight lows rarely sinking below 20?C (70?F) and maximums rising above 30?C (86?F) on most days, so whenever you go, take it easy. Rainfall is variable and falls all year round. It is rare for rain to fall all day: it usually confines itself to short-lived torrential downpours in the afternoons. The driest months tend to be June and July.
Events
With so many cultures and religions in Malaysia, there is almost always something going on. Visitors from Western countries will need to check the local lunar calendar for the exact dates of most events. New Year's Day, Chinese New Year, Worker's Day (May Day) and National Day (31 August) are just a few of Malaysia's mind-boggling 44 public holidays. The festival of Ramadan is the major Islamic event of the year.
The Hindu festival Thaipusam - now banned in India - is celebrated in the most dramatic way in Kuala Lumpur with devotees attaching heavy metal frames to their bodies using skewers and hooks. The celebrations centre on the Bata Caves.
KL is extremely well-serviced by air, bus and train routes. The main bus station - Puduraya - is just east of Chinatown, and services all of Peninsular Malaysia as well as Singapore and Thailand. Long-distance train journeys depart from the historic old train station, located 1km (0.6mi) from the new KL Sentral.
