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Thirty-five
kilometers east of Bali at its closest point, Lombok is inevitably
compared with its better-known western neighbor, although it
differs considerably in almost every respect: physically, culturally,
linguistically and historically. It also contrasts quite markedly
for the visitor, with less widespread tourist facilities, sparser
public transport and simpler accommodation, although things
are changing pretty rapidly. Approximately
ten percent of Lomboks 2.5 million inhabitants, are Balinese,
and it's very easy, especially if you arrive in the west where
most Balinese are settled, surrounded by their distinctive
temples and household architecture, to perceive Lombok simply
as an extension of Bali. However, the majority of the populations
are the indigenous Muslim sasak, people. Today the two cultures
appear to coexist relatively amicably, but it doesn't take
too long to discern rather less imitable emotions below the
surface- perhaps not surprising given historical events and
the fact that a lot of the economic advantages of increased
tourism have eluded the native Sasak.
From the seventeenth
century onwards, Lombok can increasingly under Balinese influence,
after the Balinese had helped the Sasak aristocracy defeat
invaders from Sumbawa, to the, east. Infighting among the
rajas of the four Lombok principalities - Pagasangan, Pagutan,
Mataram and Cakranegara - further weakened the hold of the
Sasak rulers. In 1830, Ratu Agung acceded to the throne of
Mataram, and over the next thirteen years brought the whole
of Lombok under his rule. In 1849, he also gained control
of Karangasem in east Bali in return for supplying his subjects
to the Dutch as troops for their campaigns in Bali. His brother,
Ratu Agung Ngurah, succeeded him in 1872, and, seeking to
serve his own ambitions in Bali, pushed the demand for troops
too far. The residents of Praya rebelled in 1891, and unrest
quickly spread. The Dutch intervened and eventually invaded
Lombok in 1894, bringing the entire island under colonial
rule until Indonesian Independence.
Measuring 801un by 70km,
Lombok is slightly smaller than Bali and divides conveniently
into three geographical regions. 'Me mountainous, parched
northern area is dominated by the awesome bulk of Gunung Rinjani,
at 3726m the third highest peak in Indonesia, and until late
1994 believed to be dormant Trekking at least part of the
way up Rinjani is the reason many tourists come to Lombok,
and it's an easily organized and highly satisfying trip. To
the south of this mass, the central plains, about 25km wide,
contain the most productive agricultural areas as well as
the major road on the island linking the west and east coasts.
Attractive villages perched in the southern foothills of.
Rinjani are easily accessible from here, and many of the island's
craft centers are also in or near this cross-island corridor.
Further south again is a range of low inland hills, around
500m high, behind the sweeping bays and pure white sands of
the southern beaches, all of which can be explored from Kuta,
the accommodation centre of the south and surfing focus of
the island. Several groups of islands lie off the
Lombok coast. The trio
of Gin Islands- Trawangan, Meno and Air - off the northwest
coast, are the best known to tourists, long-time favorites
with backpackers in search of sea, sun and sand in simple
surroundings, although Gili Trawangan, in particular, is heading
up market at a rapid rate. Those off the southwest peninsula
and the northeast coast are also becoming more accessible.
Lombok's rainfall ranges from 1500mm to 2000mm a year, much
drier than Bali, but wetter than Sumbawa and the islands further
east. As with Bali there are two seasons, rainy from November
to March and dry the rest of the year. Lombok, s economy is
based on agriculture, with rice, cassava, cotton, tobacco
(major export), Soya, beans and chili peppers being produced.
However, in recent
centuries the island has found it impossible to support its
burgeoning population, and thousands have died in fan-tines
on the island, reportedly 50,000 as recently
as 1966. Consequently, many people have left and continue
to leave, to settle on other Indonesian islands as part of
the government's transmigrasi scheme The government is also
trying to moderate the island's dependence on agriculture,
and pumice is now the main export mostly to Hong Kong.
Cultivated pearls, farmed
in co-operation with the Japanese, fetch over US$1 million
a year, seaweed and sea cucumber are growing in economic importance,
and income from the increasingly well-known pottery industry
and from tourism is rising annually.
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