TECH & SPECS
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Limb Alignment
Problem: Bow string does not stay in limb groove.
Diagnosis: Limb Alignment - important for center shot.
Solution:
1. Loosen saddle screw(1/8")at butt of outboard limb 3 turns.
2. Place bow flat on table, string facing upward.
3. Grasp limb at tip & twist in direction needed while holding down bow at the hinge
area. It is best to over compensate at this point. The string should have the effect of
laying on the opposite side of the string groove.
4. Tighten saddle screw.
5. Draw bow.
6. Check alignment.
7. Repeat procedure if necessary. What we are trying to do is shift the yoke cable through
the saddle. The yoke cable holds the left/right alignment of your limb and has a memory
that needs resetting. If limb still looks twisted after a few attempts:
8. Change the yoke cable. The cable is color coded on the tips of the swedges tucked in
the cam. Be sure to locate the
proper color codes on each end of the cable. If you are unsure of the cable size, we can
help you by knowing the bow
serial number or draw length and model.
NOTE: This process can be done without a bow press and
without relaxing the poundage weight.
Stealth model: Loosen the two saddle screws on outboard and
follow same procedure.
QUIETING YOUR ONEIDA EAGLE BOW
Check the obvious.
Check for:
Brace Height Too Low : Raise the brace height to be in your bow model
specs by twisting the string to bring brace height up to specs.
Loose Accessories : Such as sights pins, pin guard, arrow rest, quiver,
etc.
Timing : Loose timing system.
Hinge : Check and oil hinges.
Check : Saddle screws and hinge screws and tighten ( loose screws will
cause clicking sound )
OTHER TIPS
Install Silencers : Install puff silencers on string tight against outboard limb.
Add : Mole skin or fleece on outboard limb where string makes contact to
dampen string noise.
String : The use of B-50 Dacron string will quiet your bow tremendously.
This string material has elasticity and is forgiving, however it will slow bow speed 12 -
15 fps. When going from a omni flight material to B-50 make the string length 3/4"
shorter to allow for the stretch that the B-50 has.
QUIETING YOUR ONEIDA EAGLE BOW
Check the obvious.
Check for:
Brace Height Too Low : Raise the brace height to be in your bow model
specs by twisting the string to bring brace height up to specs.
Loose Accessories : Such as sights pins, pin guard, arrow rest, quiver,
etc.
Timing : Loose timing system.
Hinge : Check and oil hinges.
Check : Saddle screws and hinge screws and tighten ( loose screws will
cause clicking sound )
OTHER TIPS
Install Silencers : Install puff silencers on string tight against outboard limb.
Add : Mole skin or fleece on outboard limb where string makes contact to
dampen string noise.
String : The use of B-50 Dacron string will quiet your bow tremendously.
This string material has elasticity and is forgiving, however it will slow bow speed 12 -
15 fps. When going from a omni flight material to B-50 make the string length 3/4"
shorter to allow for the stretch that the B-50 has.
TIPS
SENT IN BY YOU
Mike Brooks Authorized Oneida Dealer.
I found that when setting up an Oneida bow with a peep in the string, I like to use the
true peep from Fletcher Products. What I do first is take the string off and rotate it the
same way it rolls when pulling it back. This is the opposite of when the bow arrives in
the box. If you rotate the string until it flattens out or straight, Keeping track how
many rotations you have made, keep rotating the string the same amount of rotations it took
to flatten the string. What this does is less rotation in pulling the string back and
still retaining brace height. You might have to go an extra turn or two, and that is o.k.
as long as it is in the recommended brace height.
Contact me if you have any questions.
Mike Brooks Authorized Oneida dealer since 1986. 1-307-587-8583 good shooting!
TUNING THE STEALTH
By Bob Beneteau
CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE
Also Available in Word
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To time this bow you must understand it was developed to work as close to a regular wheel bow so that no extra timing procedure was needed unlike all Oneida’s with the slotted adjustable system. Most thought they could just reset at any point with weight on and the bow would be in time top and bottom. Disaster was the result in most cases. The thing to realize is that timing or synchronizing must have a starting point or a relationship to the straight line of the bow. If you draw a center line through the side of a stealth riser and in reality it already has one (the timing channel) we can use this to determine cam rotation and synchronizing of movement. There are three points (Fig. 1) we can use at each have exactly the same relation to the center line of the bow: 1. The axle on which the cam is placed. 2. The idler wheel. 3. The slot holes that are cut into the cam. |
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Method of Timing If your bow has limbs on the best way to start the first time is to take them off; 1. Back off limb bolts until string is limp and cables are loose. 2. Take off string by pushing on outboards. 3. Take all cables out of cam slots. 4. Remove limb bolts and limb assembly. Now that you have the riser with just the cams, loosen the timing hub set screw and it should relieve tension on timing cable. Note: On right hand bows timing hub is located on top cam assembly and on the bottom of left hand bow. Note: You need to acquire from Oneida or Bowtech Unlimited two custom made pins to use for cam timing location. These pins are a specific diameter that will set cams at exactly the position in relation to the riser center line for my specifications for the bow. Place each of these pins (fig.2) into the cam location holes at both ends of the bow and rotate cams to the rest position as they would sit if the bow was completely assembled. The pins will go all the way through both right and left cams at the same point and will touch on the idler wheel and the timing wheel cable as shown in (fig.3). |
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Once you have pins and cams located in rest position you can hold them in place and have someone else retighten the timing cable take-up spool or use two elastic bands to hold pins against idler wheel and timing wheels at either ends of the bow. When you have done this correctly there should only be 1/8 of deflection on the timing cable at either end and cams should be an equal distance from the centerline of the bow at any point in there rotation. Key Points: 1. Timing cable should be tight with 1/8 deflection at idler wheels. After timing procedure is complete reassemble the bow. DO NOT loosen the timing system again; it should stay perfectly in time without retiming at weight adjustments as long as you follow these rules: |
THE CATFISH LOOP
By Tom Johnson ( AKA CATFISH )
CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE
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#1 - Put two small
finishing nails in a board about one and three-quarters of an inch apart. |
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#2 - Slip the coiled loop off the nails
and place the coil under the bowstring in the area you intend to place the loop. |
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#3 - Take the top and bottom of the coiled
loop - the four strands above and the four strands below the bowstring - and pull them
towards you over the bowstring. At this point you could lift up on the bowstring
with the eight strands of the loop. |
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#4 - Begin wrapping the eight strands of
the loop with the eighteen-inch tag end, and wrap over the one-inch tag which lays along
the loop. The knot in the original coil should be next to the bowstring on the
shooter side. Wrap the first time between the knot and bowstring, and continue to
wrap tightly over the knot and around the loop. At no time should any of the Loop wrapping
go over the bowstring itself. |
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#5 - When you have wrapped about
three-quarters of the way around the loop, take a waxed piece of string (dentil floss will
do) about twelve inches long, fold it in half, and place the loop of the floss over the
remaining strands of the Catfish Loop with part of the floss loop protruding past the
bowstring. |
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#6 - Continue wrapping over the Catfish
Loop and the floss until you have wrapped snugly up to the bowstring. Holding
the wrapping snugly, take the end of the string you have been wrapping with (the
eighteen-inch tag end), and run it through the loop of the floss. Leaving a bit of
slack in the tag end that runs through the floss loop, grab the other end of the floss
(sticking up through the Catfish Loop near the center) and pull the tag end through (under
the ten or so wraps of the Catfish Loop). Be careful not to run this last wrap over the bowstring - only the Loop. |
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#7 - You should now have a served loop on
the bowstring with a small tag end (the one you pulled through) sticking up through the
loop serving. Cut this tag end off as close to the Loop as possible. |
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#8 - Voila!! You now have a Catfish
Loop on your bowstring! It should turn, with some pressure, on the bowstring.
All you need to do now is crimp or tie two nocking points inside the loop and adjust them
up or down to fine tune your bow. To adjust the size of the loop you will need to
change the spacing of the nails in step #1. |
Some folks put the nocking points outside the string-loop instead of inside. I like them inside because it makes a wider loop for attaching the release. Here’s an example of using string nocking points on the outside:
http://www.thebowman.com/tbropenock.html
Like everything else, it’s most complicated when you first do it, then it’s amazingly easy. It’s also good to know because in emergencies you can make a nocking point in the field.
Brass nocking points are really quite heavy, and can slow arrow flight. String nocking points weigh almost nothing, and work really well.
80% Let-Off Bows
In 1993 Oneida Eagle was the first to introduce 80% Let-Off in the X-80
series of bows. The Oneida 80% Let-Off is the only True 80% meaning that the let-off is
80% meaning that the let-off is consistently 80% at all points not just at the anchor
as with many bows. The 80% Let-Off, in combination with the Oneida PDC (perfect draw
control), gives a smooth draw with a gradual valley making it remarkable bow to draw. The
response to the introduction was tremendous and continues today in the Oneida bow
series.
The 80% Let-Off feature on an Oneida bow will enable the shooter to draw about 10# heavier in bow weight than a standard compound. The Oneida design incorporates a very smooth draw curve which lets off early and gradual, making the bow shooter friendly.
I. BENEFITS
A. Allows archer to maintain full draw longer
B. Allows archer to hold more poundage and hold less
C. Archer can maintain a comfortable anchor point
EXAMPLE: Draw 70# peak-holding 14#
II. YOUNG ARCHERS
A. Easier for youth to draw
A. Eliminates stress fatigue after shooting
III. KEEPS PEOPLE SHOOTING
A. After injuries: shoulder, neck
B. After heart attacks, arthritis
C. Smooth draw enables them to continue shooting
D. And amputees using thier mouths to pull
string, only Oneida enables this.
