LOMBOK

Thirty-five
kilometers east of Bali at its closest point, Lombok
is inevitably compared with its better-known western
neighbor, although it differs considerably in almost
every respect: physically, culturally, linguistically
and historically. It also contrasts quite markedly
for the visitor, with less widespread tourist facilities,
sparser public transport and simpler accommodation,
although things are changing pretty rapidly.
Approximately
ten percent of Lomboks 2.5 million inhabitants, are
Balinese, and it's very easy, especially if you arrive
in the west where most Balinese are settled, surrounded
by their distinctive temples and household architecture,
to perceive Lombok simply as an extension of Bali.
However, the majority of the populations are the indigenous
Muslim sasak, people. Today the two cultures appear
to coexist relatively amicably, but it doesn't take
too long to discern rather less imitable emotions
below the surface- perhaps not surprising given historical
events and the fact that a lot of the economic advantages
of increased tourism have eluded the native Sasak.
From
the seventeenth century onwards, Lombok can increasingly
under Balinese influence, after the Balinese had helped
the Sasak aristocracy defeat invaders from Sumbawa,
to the, east. Infighting among the rajas of the four
Lombok principalities - Pagasangan, Pagutan, Mataram
and Cakranegara - further weakened the hold of the
Sasak rulers. In 1830, Ratu Agung acceded to the throne
of Mataram, and over the next thirteen years brought
the whole of Lombok under his rule. In 1849, he also
gained control of Karangasem in east Bali in return
for supplying his subjects to the Dutch as troops
for their campaigns in Bali. His brother, Ratu Agung
Ngurah, succeeded him in 1872, and, seeking to serve
his own ambitions in Bali, pushed the demand for troops
too far. The residents of Praya rebelled in 1891,
and unrest quickly spread. The Dutch intervened and
eventually invaded Lombok in 1894, bringing the entire
island under colonial rule until Indonesian Independence.
Measuring
801un by 70km, Lombok is slightly smaller than Bali
and divides conveniently into three geographical regions.
'Me mountainous, parched northern area is dominated
by the awesome bulk of Gunung Rinjani, at 3726m the
third highest peak in Indonesia, and until late 1994
believed to be dormant Trekking at least part of the
way up Rinjani is the reason many tourists come to
Lombok, and it's an easily organized and highly satisfying
trip. To the south of this mass, the central plains,
about 25km wide, contain the most productive agricultural
areas as well as the major road on the island linking
the west and east coasts. Attractive villages perched
in the southern foothills of. Rinjani are easily accessible
from here, and many of the island's craft centers
are also in or near this cross-island corridor. Further
south again is a range of low inland hills, around
500m high, behind the sweeping bays and pure white
sands of the southern beaches, all of which can be
explored from Kuta, the accommodation centre of the
south and surfing focus of the island. Several groups
of islands lie off the
Lombok
coast. The trio of Gin Islands- Trawangan, Meno and
Air - off the northwest coast, are the best known
to tourists, long-time favorites with backpackers
in search of sea, sun and sand in simple surroundings,
although Gili Trawangan, in particular, is heading
up market at a rapid rate. Those off the southwest
peninsula and the northeast coast are also becoming
more accessible.
Lombok's rainfall ranges from 1500mm to 2000mm a year,
much drier than Bali, but wetter than Sumbawa and
the islands further east. As with Bali there are two
seasons, rainy from November to March and dry the
rest of the year. Lombok, s economy is based on agriculture,
with rice, cassava, cotton, tobacco (major export),
Soya, beans and chili peppers being produced. However,
in recent
centuries the island has found it impossible to support
its burgeoning population, and thousands have died
in fan-tines on the island, reportedly 50,000 as recently
as 1966. Consequently, many people have left and continue
to leave, to settle on other Indonesian islands as
part of the government's transmigrasi scheme The government
is also trying to moderate the island's dependence
on agriculture, and pumice is now the main export
mostly to Hong Kong.
Cultivated
pearls, farmed in co-operation with the Japanese,
fetch over US$1 million a year, seaweed and sea cucumber
are growing in economic importance, and income from
the increasingly well-known pottery industry and from
tourism is rising annually.
Lombok
Hotels