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Tulo-tulo dance


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Bali's most famous and crowded resort is Kuta beach, a six-kilometre sweep of golden sand, with plenty of accommodation, shops and nightlife. Nearby Sanur is much quieter, but most backpackers prefer the beaches of peaceful east-coast Candi Dasa and traveller-oriented Lovina on the north coast. The island's other major destination is the cultural centre of Ubud , a still charming but undeniably commercialized overgrown village, where traditional dances are staged every night of the week and the streets are full of arts-and-crafts galleries.

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Dancers in warrior costume hold hands and move in a ring counter-clockwise, all chanting together, the circle shrinking and expanding as if breathing. Then the tempo accelerates and the men begin to shout rhythmically, leaping frog-like high into the air and performing mock fights and armed combat dances with their spears. Then the mock battlefield dissolves in utter confusion, just like after a real battle. The Headhunter's Dance is an eerie dance-song with the rattling hypnotizing sound of shields. Niah female dancing is incredibly slow by western standards (5 seconds for a foot to touch the pavement each time), two files of women moving with down-cast eyes and completely immobile faces. They wear primary colors red, yellow, gold and black; those colors seen against expanses of gray stone make a fantastic total effect. Sometimes dances take place on large mushroom-shaped tables which act as the stage for the dance. Wearing long scarves and ear ornaments that look like bracelets, the older women are the most accomplished dancers. See the Dance of the Hawk, with its skipping, rotating, hovering movements. Then the women dance as cats, coiling and springing and clawing at each other.