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An Introduction To B.C. Wines

By Julianna Hayes

If you were to review some of things that have been said about British Columbia wines, you might wonder how vintners here ever persevered. 

Renowned wine critic Anthony Gismondi once described the industry as the “purveyor of mostly forgettable plonk.” Another wine writer characterized B.C. wines as “sweet party-stokers and harbingers of monumental hangovers.” A Maclean's magazine article declared that, “B.C. wines needed a stepladder just to hit the heights of mediocrity.” 

Ouch.

It’s true that B.C. wines didn’t exactly make a stellar debut. Early plantings consisted almost exclusively of Lubrusca and French hybrid varieties, poor cousins to the vinifera or "noble" grapes responsible for producing the world's top wines. Few believed that these so-called "nobles" would survive, let alone thrive in the harsh climate for which Canada has become more than famous.

Yet, because of the intense determination and talent of a few of B.C.'s pioneer wine masters, the industry has evolved and the wines have begun to develop into a special breed, quite unlike anything else in the world. B.C. today is home to about 80 wineries, offering products that are gaining international attention and respect. The industry continues to grow at an unprecedented pace.

The History

There are few who can deny the rugged, natural beauty of Canada's most westerly province. Jagged peaks and snowcapped mountains, glacier lakes and hot springs, dense forests, and uninhabited terrain rich in native tradition all signify what has become Beautiful British Columbia. But until very recently, few people associated the province with wine, an unfortunate oversight that was a greater loss for those outside the loop than it was for the producers in the industry.

B.C. wine country may only be now coming into its own, but there is a tradition that dates back 140 years. Father Charles Pandosy is credited with setting up the first vineyards at the Obelate Mission near Kelowna back in the 1860s. The purpose was to make sacramental wines for his parish.

It wasn't until 1926 when the first commercial vineyards were planted and a winery began offering products for sale to the general public. It was not a memorable coming-out party. B.C.'s early foray into the industry was synonymous with jug wines. To serious wine consumers, the products were a joke. No one believed that B.C. could ever evolve into a credible wine region. But it did.

The turning point came in the latter part of the 20th century. Prior to the late 1980s, the British Columbian wine industry was well protected. Producers relied on the domestic market for 99 per cent of their sales. But when free trade was announced, winery operators were faced with the options of radical change or being replaced by imports. 

They chose to change.

The Wine Regions

British Columbia today has three distinct wine regions. The Okanagan and Similkameen region in British Columbia's interior is the largest both in size and in the number of active wineries. The Okanagan Lake that fills most of the valley floor helps to control the blistering afternoon heat that sometimes develops in this semi-arid desert landscape. The northern part of the valley is noticeably cooler than the southern half. In addition, there are unique microclimates and soil types in the various pockets of the valley. For that reason, you will find a profound difference in the varieties of grapes and styles of wines produced here.

The second largest wine region in British Columbia is Vancouver's coastal islands. A handful of small cottage-type wineries are scattered across Vancouver Island, one makes its home on Saturna, another on Bowen Island and two wineries are in the works for Salt Spring. The growing season along the gulf coast is long, but late summer rains and the lack of consistent heat can hinder production. Therefore, the focus is on early ripening varieties producing crisp, fruit-driven wines. The beautiful setting and farm family approach to the industry adds to the region's charm. 

Last, but not least is the Fraser Valley region. The weather here is mild but relatively wet. There are currently five wineries in this area, two of which produce fruit wines. One of the grape wine producers used to buy all its grapes from growers elsewhere in the province. However, local vintners are becoming accustomed to their conditions and planting varieties that better suited to the environment. They are now beginning to produce sought-after wines. 

The Grapes

The grapes grown in British Columbia today are mostly French vinifera varieties like Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir or German varietals such as Riesling and Gewurztraminer. But in the early days of B.C. wines, less desirable Lubrusca and French hybrids such Marechal Foch, De Chaunac, and an obscure grape called "Okanagan Riesling" ruled the vineyards.

These hybrid wines lacked the complexity, depth and aging potential of the European viniferas. They tended to be on the sweet side and their "foxy" characteristics turned off wine aficionados. But there was a reluctance to do things differently. First of all, growers feared that the "noble" grapes were far too delicate for a climate that at times could be intensely fierce. They were also put off by the fact that vinifera vines produced substantially lower yields than that of their trusty hybrids. The industry for a time seemed content with the safety of the status quo.

When Free Trade entered the picture in the '80s, the rules of the game changed. Growers now faced a brutally competitive market and hybrids were not going to cut it. The government offered to sponsor experimental vineyard plots to determine which varieties of the vinifera grapes would ripen properly and survive B.C.'s frosty winters. The knowledge gained from these experiments gave winemakers the head start they needed to produce quality wines without years of costly trial and error. Eventually, there was a massive pull-out of hybrid vines, which were replaced with the noble varieties that dominate vineyards today.

There are now about 5,000 acres of premium wine grapes growing in B.C., 1,000 of which were planted in the last two years. The industry is small by comparison, but it is among the most rapidly expanding of the new world wine regions.

In the last decade, growers have discovered that B.C., particularly the Okanagan Valley, has a unique microclimate that enables some of the more difficult varieties to grow and ripen here. They continue to defy earlier predictions. For example, in the arid south part of the valley -- an area often referred to as the Golden Mile -- one will find increasing numbers of plots containing highly prized Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. These plots are yielding stylish, lush and full-bodied red wines, previously thought to be impossible to produce in B.C.

Hybrid varieties can still be found in parts of B.C. Some growers left plantings of Marechal Foch in their vineyards and now these "old vines" are producing wines that have garnered a substantial cult following. Hybrids are fairly plentiful in the north Okanagan, where the heat units are low and risks of late spring or early fall frosts are high.

Here is the latest data on the grape acreage in B.C.:

The Wines

Crisp, fruity, clean white wines and luscious dessert wines are British Columbia trademark products. Some are made in the friendly, traditional German off-dry style while some are produced in the fashion of the great French dry wines. The same goes for the dessert wines. B.C. winemakers are skilled in the production of French Sauterne style wines that are late harvest and/or Botrytis affected. But Canadian producers are perhaps best known for their stunning German-style icewines, made from grapes picked and crushed while still frozen.

Nowhere else in the world is the weather more suitable for the production of icewine. This has been much to the chagrin of the actual inventers of it – the Germans. Icewine (or Eiswein) is their baby. For almost 200 years, the Germans were the icewine masters. The first Canadian icewine was made in 1973 by Walter Hainle, founder of Hainle Vineyards in Peachland, B.C. And in less than 30 years, Canada has become the largest producer of this precious nectar.

Red wines were once not considered to be one of B.C.'s strengths. That is changing rapidly. Work on matching grapes to microclimate to extract the 'terroir' is under way. Some growers in the south Okanagan are now of the feeling that their hot microclimate and long growing season may be better suited to "big bodied reds" than previously believed. And Pinot Noir, a sophisticated medium-bodied red wine, has had success in B.C. also. The finicky vines used for this wine seem to feel right at home in all of B.C.'s wine regions.

As a testament to this success, B.C. red wines are now outselling whites. More vineyards are being planted in red varieties to meet the growing demand.

The Winemakers

As the industry turned toward quality wine production in the late '70s, many aspiring winemakers went abroad. They obtained training at German winemaking schools like Weinsberg and Geisenheim, or the University of California, Davis, returning to B.C. with a variety of winemaking styles that are still evolving and adapting to the growing conditions and grape varieties. There has recently been an influx of winemakers from other regions, including Australia, New Zealand and South Africa, that are contributing even more to the complexity and variety of British Columbia's wines. 

British Columbia's wines are becoming the special treat that the winemaking pioneers once envisioned. The fact that this very web site receives inquiries about specific B.C. wines from people all over the world, is a testament to the fact that they are earning a reputation worldwide. A reputation they well deserve.

Hayes is the managing editor of BCWine.com, the wine columnist for the Okanagan Sunday in Kelowna and Penticton, B.C., wine commentator on CBC Radio's Daybreak program, columnist for the Victoria Times Colonist and a regular contributor to various publications across Canada and the U.S. Readers with comments and questions can e-mail her at julianna@silk.net