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description of areas
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BakhchisaraiOne can try here some of about 100 bolted rock climbing routes from 5A up to 7C+ (Russian categories (grades) correspond to the French ones) in 9 "sectors". Route extension is from 8m. to 23m. Accommodation is in Hotel. Visits to the medieval cave city of Chufut - Calais, Assumption cave monastery, Khan palace are possible. Lime rocks here are quite young, often overhanging, resemble indoor climbing walls.I think that it is logical to start from here, because there are cliffs directed differently. It makes possible to avoid the sun and get adapted quickly to the region. Plus the site often looks like an overhanging wall with pockets. If on used to climb indoor, transition wall-cliff would be easy. Because of overhangs it is possible to climb even if it rains. The rock here is not sharp, so it allows holding hands in good condition for other sites. It is hot here in summer even in the shade at noon. That is why one climbs here in the morning or starting with four o'clock p.m. At noon - siesta. Near to the site there are shops, a small street market and cafés. One can taste Bakhchisarai wines here in the cellar or café halls. Hotel is near to the site: 25-30 minutes on foot. COMPARISON OF ROCK CLIMBING GRADES SYSTEMS more pics: BAKHCHISARAI |
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KobaIt is the commonly used name of the site near to Simferopol. The path leading to Koba is very beautiful: it goes along a river in the wood of cornbeam, Cornelian and hazelnut trees. The site is situated near to the longest Crimean cave Kisil Koba. It is the place where climbers from Simferopol spend their week-end. It is here where Terrorist - an alpinist who made lots of routes - trains himself. There are 25 routes from 6a to 7c which height is 12-25 meters. On the slab there are five routes; the others are overhangs partly or entirely. Koba for geologists, it is conglomerate and coral riff limestone, that is why holds are often with small slippery pebbles. As here are neither shop nor hotel, one comes here for a single day. Otherway one has to bring a sleeping bag and something to eat. In order to reach Koba, it takes 25-30 minutes from the centre of Simferopol by car and then about 40 minutes on foot along the path. |
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Near to the sea
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Yalta
Greater Yalta is the most popular climbing region in Crimea. Sites of Nikita,
Ai-Nikola, Alim, Krasny Kamen (Red Stone), Simeyiz are divers and interesting.
Their number exceeds two hundred. |
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Krasny Kamen (Red Stone) in Krasnokamenka. It takes 20-25 minutes by car to the east of Yalta to reach the climbing site. The nearest villages are Gurzuf and Krasnokamenka. Actually, the cliff is situated in Krasnokamenka. About 75 routes 5a-8b. Often with prolonged problems. It is better to have a 60 meters rope. Near to the site there no hotels, but it is possible to stay at Tatars in Krasnokamenka as a paying guest. One can taste here some home made cheese and buy it. Tatars cook well, and this is the Tatar and Uzbek cuisine! One can order a dinner at the family. Shops are rather well-run where one might buy things for every day use and food. There is a small street market. more pics: KRASNOKAMENKA The rock Krasny Kamen |
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Simeyiz
Kochka (Cat). The mountain limits the territory
of the village. About 20 routes 6b+-7c. Route height 13-27! meters. Slab
at the beginning, overhangs (niches, cornices) above. Sharp. Lots of juniper
trees at the foot. |
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In Greater Yalta one might undertake visits to Livadia,
Massandra, Alupka etc. palaces, excursions “Tasting of the Crimean
wines”. Hiking in the mountains above Greater Yalta, big wall climbing,
diving, paint-ball, mountain biking are possible and available.
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Foros (Ortch-Kaya)A new site created by climbers from Krasnoyarsk (Russia). Routes 6a - 8a..on slab and overhangs, often crux is far away from bolts according to the late fashion. It takes 15 minutes by car from Foros. Foros is a sea resort where are lots of cafés, shops and hotels. Nearby big wall sites are. |
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Parus To the west from Foros, in 50 km from Yalta, 15 minutes on foot up from highway Sebastopol-Yalta. The cliff looks like a sail - "parus". Slab. About 20 routes 6b-7c. Near to Chelebi, that is a big wall site. more pictures: PARUS |
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Sarych The site is near to highway Sebastopol-Yalta, to the west of Parus. More than 30 routes 5c-8a. Sharp. In the sun. There is also another site above which has been created recently by sportsmen from Sevastopol. Here is about 10 routes 6b-8a. |
| Laspi More than 20 routes 6b-7c+. In the sun. There are boarding and rest houses beneath at the sea. Along the highway there are cafés close to the site. |
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| more pictures: people | ROCK CLIMBING IN CRIMEA - Elena Ovchinnikova
ROCK CLIMBING IN CRIMEA - Max Petrenko and Katya Yaemurd |
| MULTIPITCH CLIMBING IN CRIMEA - DESCRIPTION OF AREAS |
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RELATED PICTURES:
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