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North
Carolina's
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Swansboro Swansboro, a historic coastal town that dates back to around 1730, is a pleasant stopover after about an hour and a half of car travel from Wilmington. Situated on the White Oak River and the Intracoastal Waterway, this lovely little town is surrounded by water on three sides. Swansboro has a particularly charming downtown historic area lined with antiques shops, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. Look for signs leading to the district just off N.C. 24. The area is concentrated within three blocks on the shores of the White Oak River. Parking is free, the merchants are friendly, and there are several quaint and interesting shops, including Russell's Old Tyme Shoppe, (910) 326-3790; Noah's Ark, (910) 326-5679; White Oak Gallery/Silver Thimble Gift Shoppe, (910) 326-8558; Sunshine and Silks, (910) 326-5735; Gray Dolphin, (910) 326-4958; The Brass Binnacle, (910) 326-2448; and Through the Looking Glass, (910) 326-3128. The historic district is a great stopover for lunch or dinner. Captain Charlie's Seafood
Paradise, 106 Front Street, (910) 326-4303, is a memorable place to enjoy some of North Carolina's best fried seafood. It serves dinner only. For breakfast or lunch, check out
Yana's Ye Olde Drug Store, 119 Front Street, (910) 326-3891, where you can enjoy omelets, pancakes, old-fashioned milk shakes, made-to-order burgers and homemade onion rings in a '50s atmosphere.
Gourmet Cafe, 108 W. Corbett Avenue, (910) 326-7114,
has an extensive wine list and offers tasty lunch and dinner options. Lunch choices include salads,
build-your-own sandwiches and homemade desserts. Dinner specialties
include seafood, beef and veal. White Oak River Bistro, 206 W. Corbett Avenue, (910) 326-1696, features Mediterranean food.
Church Street's Deli and Coffee Shop, 105A Church Street, (910)
326-7572, offers gourmet meats; it's open for coffee in the morning and
lunch.
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Bogue Banks
Back on N.C. 24, travel another 10 minutes to the intersection with N.C. Highway 58. A right turn is the western entrance to Bogue Banks, a barrier island separated from the mainland by Bogue Sound. You can choose to continue straight on N.C. Highway 24 or cross the bridge to take a parallel route on the barrier island. The bridge is worth the detour because its high arc gives motorists a dramatic view of the Intracoastal Waterway. The beach communities along approximately 30 miles of the island are widely varied in tone. Emerald Isle, Indian Beach and Salter Path offer an astonishing diversity of neighborhoods, ranging from expensive beach homes and condominiums to fishing trailers. There are also a few attractions for the kids, including miniature golf, waterslides and bumper boats.Pine Knoll Shores is an exclusive residential area of windswept live oaks and kudzu with attractive single-family homes and condominiums as well as hotels and the occasional restaurant. This beach is home of the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores, (910) 247-4003 or (866) 294-3477; however, this facility will be closed for remodeling and expansion until spring 2006. At the eastern end of the island is Atlantic Beach, a smorgasbord of beach amenities that includes an amusement park with a Ferris wheel, three fishing piers, shopping opportunities, boat rentals, fast food places, full-service restaurants and motels. Just beyond Atlantic Beach on the eastern tip of Bogue Banks is
Fort Macon, (252) 726-3775, an old Civil War fort and 385-acre state park.
The old fort has been totally restored to the Civil War period and is open for tours, either guided or on your own. Take a picnic and make a day of it. Visitors have access to picnic tables, outdoor grills, shelters, restrooms and drinking water in addition to the
nature trails, abundant plant life and beachfront.
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Morehead City
Cross over the bridge at the eastern end of Bogue Banks and enter Morehead City, home to the North Carolina State Port Authority -- something else Wilmington and the Crystal Coast have in common -- and a multitude of restaurants specializing in fresh seafood. The undisputed traditional leader of dining in Morehead City is the Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant, 501 Evans Street, (252) 247-3111. The restaurant seats 600 diners and serves fresh broiled or fried seafood, homemade chowders and Tar Heel hushpuppies that truly melt in your mouth. Capt. Bill's Waterfront Restaurant, 701 Evans Street, (252) 726-2166, is open for lunch and dinner and serves fresh-catch seafood with traditional hushpuppies, cole slaw, chowders and fresh pies. Finz Grill of Morehead, 105 S. Seventh Street, (252) 726-5502, occupies the former headquarters of the Morehead Gulf Oil Company. Open for lunch and dinner, it features fresh local seafood as the specialty of the house. Dine outside on nice days and enjoy the view from a second-story deck. Downtown Morehead City is the home of the FishWalk, a series of wonderfully lifelike, colorful art sculptures depicting various indigenous fish and other types of sea life. Each piece is a cement block covered on four sides with glazed stoneware plates, creating a textured mural. Located along the waterfront, Arendell Street and side streets, the FishWalk will eventually include 25 pieces. The History Place, 1008 Arendell Street, (252) 247-7533, interprets the history of the Cape Lookout region from Native Americans through modern development. Admission is free, however groups are charged $2 per person for guide services. A tea room and gift shop are on site. Morehead City offers a wide variety of shopping opportunities but none are more charming than the waterfront area facing Bogue Sound. Stroll along Evans Street and enjoy some of the shops that tempt you.
Dee Gee's Gifts and Books, (252) 726-3314, is a waterfront tradition that offers a large selection of books, including local and regional titles. Also check out the selection of gifts, cards and nautical charts. Looking for just the right gift for a special someone (including yourself)?
The House of Duncan, (252) 240-0982, will charm you with its selection of handmade crafts, potpourri, Yankee candles and exquisite children's clothing. Be sure to ask about the "surprise box," a unique creation that is signed and numbered by the artist (and the shop's owner), C. Duncan Lewis.
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Beaufort
Just a few miles from Morehead City is the magical town of Beaufort. Beaufort is so gorgeous it seems more like a postcard than a real place. This little laid-back coastal community nestles up to international waters and is a gateway from the Atlantic Ocean to America's waterways. Taylor's Creek, the body of water in front of the town's quaint commercial district, is filled with sailcraft and powerboats from all over the world. Just up Taylor's Creek you can catch sight of a menhaden fishing fleet. Beyond that is Core Sound and a view of Harkers Island, home to some of this country's earliest shipbuilders. Beaufort boasts a very unusual view: wild horses on Carrot Island across from the waterfront. The horses are stocky, furry steeds that pretty much care for themselves on their little windswept island. In a world where horses are rarely seen running free, this is a stirring sight. If you want a closer look, ask about boat tours that depart from the Beaufort docks. The island chain across from the Beaufort Waterfront is the Rachel Carson Estuarine Research Reserve. Free guided tours are offered each month from April to August. Inquire at the North Carolina Maritime Museum about tour times. One catch: You have to provide your own water transportation to get to the island. If you use the ferry service, expect to pay up to $8 ($4 for kids) for a round-trip journey, but remember the island tour is free.A fascinating history lesson awaits you when you visit the Old Burying Ground, where there are more than 200 markers pre-dating the Civil War. Stories are told about a British officer buried standing up and the girl who died at sea and was preserved in a rum barrel until her father could get her home. Admission is free, but guided tours are available at $5 for adults and $3 for children. The sheer beauty of the scenery at the Beaufort waterfront is enough to lull a visitor into sitting in a pleasant trance for a long time, but there is also the allure of nearby shops and attractions. Within an easy walk are stores, many appealing restaurants and the North Carolina Maritime Museum, 315 Front Street, (252) 728-7317, an 18,000-square-foot building that pays tribute to North Carolina's coastal heritage, natural resources and maritime history. The museum boasts the Harvey W. Smith Watercraft Center just across the street, a facility where students and craftsmen build wooden boats in traditional North Carolina design and welcome visitors to take a peek at boats-in-progress. As you stroll downtown, don't miss the Beaufort Historic Site, (252) 728-5225 or (800) 575-7483, enclosed by white picket fences in the 100 block of Turner Street. These authentically restored buildings and the costumed guides offer a fascinating glimpse of coastal Carolina living in the 18th and 19th centuries. Site tour and visitor information, special exhibits and historic artifacts are available on the grounds at the Safrit Historical Visitor Center, 130 Turner Street. Shoppers will enjoy a variety of stores along the waterfront. The Rocking Chair Book Store, 400 Front Street, (252) 728-2671, has a fine selection of books for children and adults. Scuttlebutt Nautical Books and Bounty, 433 Front Street, (252) 728-7765, sells a large selection of books about the sea and boating. NOAA charts, cruising guides and chart books make this a must-stop for passing boaters. La Vaughn's Pottery, 517 Front Street, (252) 728-5353, is a show-stopper for shoppers interested in an extensive line of ceramics crafted by regional and local artists. Jarrett Bay Boathouse, 507 Front Street, (252) 728-6363, is a good shop to buy gifts for boaters, homes, cottages; it's the only place to find must-have Jarrett Bay apparel. The General Store, 515 Front Street, (252) 728-7707, has hand-dipped ice cream for your summer daytripping pleasure. Highlighting North Carolina artists and craftsmen, Handscapes Gallery in Somerset Square on Front Street, (252) 728-6805, offers pottery, jewelry, paintings, glass creations and metalwork. While shopping, don't miss The Old Beaufort Shop, 130 Turner Street, (252) 728-5225. This unique shop is operated by the Beaufort Historical Association and offers one-of-a-kind items made by BHA volunteers -- original photography, handmade dolls, books on local history and herb cuttings. Diners will be overwhelmed with restaurant possibilities. The Beaufort Grocery Co., 117 Queen Street, (252) 728-3899, a lunch and dinner restaurant, offers fine dining and a full delicatessen. Breads and desserts are baked daily. The Front Street Grill at Stillwater on the Beaufort waterfront at 300 Front Street, (252) 728-4956, has a reputation as an interesting restaurant that uses unusual spices in fresh presentations of seafood, chicken, pasta and homemade soups. Spouter Inn, 218 Front Street, (252) 728-5190, is a charming spot
where diners can enjoy a memorable clam chowder, creative seafood specialties and a great view thanks to its waterfront location.
Clawson's Emporium Restaurant, 429 Front Street, (252) 728-2133, long a dining fixture on the Beaufort waterfront, serves wonderful all-American fare. Its coffee bar, known as Fishtowne Java, serves high-octane caffeine
drinks.
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New Bern
They say, "North Carolina Begins Here," in the city of New Bern, which lies along North Carolina's largest river, the Neuse. The Neuse River is one of the state's premier sailing areas because of the width and depth of the water. You'd have to try really hard to run aground in a sailboat on the Neuse. Car travelers will appreciate the lovely view of the river and will certainly enjoy the many opportunities to shop, dine and stay overnight in historic New Bern, which was settled by the Swiss and Germans in 1710. Reach it by car from Beaufort by taking U.S. 70 W. into New Bern. If traveling from Wilmington, take U.S. 17 N. You may be interested to know that New Bern is the place where Pepsi Cola was invented. This uniquely historic town was the site of the first incorporated school in North Carolina, the permanent State Capitol Building, the first meeting of the North Carolina Legislature, the state's first bank, the first public school for African-Americans, the state's first press and many more firsts.At the heart of New Bern's past and present is Tryon Palace Historic Sites & Gardens, 610 Pollock Street, (252) 514-4900 or (800) 767-1560. William Tryon chose New Bern as the first permanent capitol of the Colony of North Carolina in 1767. He built the Palace as a home befitting his stature as Colonial Governor and a suitably imposing seat of government for the British Colony. Architecture critics of the day called it the finest public building in the American colonies. When American patriots drove out the British in 1775, they made the Palace the first capitol of the new state. A few years after the capitol was moved to Raleigh in 1795, the Palace burned. The reconstructed Palace opened to the public in 1959 as North Carolina's first great public history museum. Admission to Tryon Palace also gives you admittance to the Stanley House, Dixon House, Hay House and the New Bern Academy Museum. All are open year-round with tours, crafts demonstration and costumed interpreters. The New Bern Historical Society, 513 Broad Street, (252) 638-8558, offers tours of the 1790 Attmore-Oliver House, which features a fascinating collection of 18th- and 19th-century furnishings, New Bern artifacts and Civil War relics. Entrance to the building is located at 510 Pollock Street. Discover three centuries of history in a 1½-hour narrated Trolley Tour of historic downtown New Bern; for information call (252) 637-7316 or (800) 849-7316. The New Bern Civic Theatre, 414 Pollock Street, (252) 633-0567, presents a wide variety of live attractions year round. The Bank of the Arts, 317 Middle Street, (252) 638-2577, showcases an eclectic variety of artistic endeavors. The New Bern Fireman's Museum, 408 Hancock Street, (252) 636-4087, features an impressive collection of early firefighting equipment and rare photographs. Children of all ages will delight in A Day at the Farm, 183 Woodrow McCoy Road, (252) 514-9494, a historic New Bern dairy farm that features live animals, duck ponds, milking equipment, antiques, hay rides and more. For other attractions and expert touring advice, drop by the New Bern/Craven County Convention & Visitors Information Center at 203 S. Front Street or call (252) 637-9400 or (800) 437-5767. Ask for the New Bern Historic Homes Tour, the African-American Tour, The Church and Cemeteries Tour or the Civil War Heritage Tour information. Once you've toured to your satisfaction, it's time to eat. For a small town, New Bern has an abundance of outstanding restaurants across the full spectrum of prices and cuisine. The Chelsea, 335 Middle Street, (252) 637-5469, offers varied, unique dining experiences in a restored 1912 pharmacy -- downstairs seating captures a turn-of-the-century drugstore atmosphere, while the second floor is casual Victorian in flavor. Open for lunch and dinner, the eclectic menu features a wide range of international and regional cuisine. Fred and Claire's Restaurant, 247 Craven Street, (252) 638-5426, is a great choice for dining in New Bern's historic district. Everything is made fresh daily, and the menu offers lunch options of specialty sandwiches, daily specials, quiche, soups and salads. Dinner choices range from omelets to fresh seafood. Housed in the historic Isaac Taylor House, Latitude 35 located in the Sheraton Grand New Bern, 100 Middle Street, (252) 638-3585, has a great seafood buffet on Fridays. Captain Ratty's, 202 Middle Street, (252) 633-2088, features an exceptionally large variety of grilled, steamed or broiled seafood. If shopping is your reason to travel, New Bern has antiques stores and unique gift shops galore. Elegant Days, 236 Middle Street, is a "treasure trove of old things." Jane Suggs Antiques, 228 Middle Street, (252) 637-6985, carries period furniture and reproductions, silver, porcelain and glassware. Don't let the office supplies and furniture fool you, Branch's, 309 Pollock Street, (252) 638-5171, offers a range of fine giftware, furniture, accessories, birdfeeders, lawn ornaments and more. For the kids there's Snapdragon Toys, 214 Middle Street, (252) 514-6770, a shop of toys that range from educational to just plain fun. Carolina Creations, 321 Pollock Street, (252) 633-4369, showcases the works of local artists, contemporary crafts, glass, wood and metal sculpture. Mitchell's Hardware, 215 Craven Street, (252) 638-4261, is a 101-year-old working hardware store that resembles an old-fashioned dry goods emporium with something for everyone. New Bern is such a pleasant and interesting
spot, it invites the visitor back again and again. There are
beautiful hotels and inns in the historic downtown area on the water,
including the
Sheraton New Bern, (252) 638-3585 or (800) 326-3745; the Comfort Suites Riverfront Park, (252) 636-0022 or (800)
228-5150; the Bridgepoint Hotel & Marina, 101 Howell Road, (252)
636-3637; the New Bern House Bed and Breakfast, 709 Broad Street, (252)
636-2250, which features mystery tour weekends in a restored
colonial revival home; Harmony House, (252) 636-3810 or (800) 626-3113;
Meadows Inn, (252) 634-1776 or (800) 551-1776; The Aerie (252)
636-5553 or (800) 849-5553; Howard House Victorian Bed & Breakfast,
(252) 514-6709 or (800) 705-5261; Brass Pineapple (252) 633-0519 or
(800) 291-6126; Hanna House, (252) 635-3209 or (800) 830-4371; and the
Isaac Taylor Suite, (252) 514-2063. These hotels and inns are particularly convenient to all the attractions and restaurants mentioned in this brief overview.
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