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 Ho Chi Minh City Looking Forward
Ho Chi Minh City's ties with the United States remain strong as well. Although the U.S. Consulate General was officially opened here with a staff of only seven in October 1997, the consular section in this rapidly growing post is already one of the largest in the world, processing more than 25,000 immigrant visas in 1999 alone. Strictly speaking, the consular district is Ho Chi Minh City only, but the consulate general covers the lower two thirds of Vietnam, from Hue south. The present workforce of 35 Americans and about 190 Foreign Service National employees operates out of one of the Department's newest office buildings. Construction of the two-floor consulate general building was completed in July 1999. The building was dedicated by Senator Charles Hagel and Assistant Secretary for Consular Affairs Mary Ryan last August and commissioned by Secretary Albright in September. It boasts state-of-the-art consular interview facilities, and its own collection of artwork blends the best of the United States and Vietnam. It is located on the property of the former U.S. Embassy in Saigon, adjacent to where the chancery once stood. The old chancery was demolished, although the rooftop stairs leading to the embassy helipad were donated to the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum. The only physical artifacts from the former embassy remaining at post are the original flagpole, set in a granite base that was salvaged from the exterior wall, and a coffee table in the executive suite made from a piece of that same granite. Although American visitors frequently ask questions about the past, this is a post geared toward the future of the U.S.-Vietnam bilateral relationship. As the post celebrates the fifth anniversary of bilateral relations in July, consulate general staff--including representatives from State, the U.S. Foreign Commercial Service, the Immigration and Naturalization Service and the Foreign Agricultural Service--are dedicated to assisting Americans in Vietnam, supporting U.S. business interests, encouraging fair bilateral trade and facilitating the legal travel and immigration of Vietnamese to the United States. A talented, dedicated and incredibly energetic Vietnamese staff assists in carrying out these tasks. Indeed, jobs in the consulate general are sought so vigorously by the local community that the consulate receives more than 300 applications for each open position. Living in Ho Chi Minh City is a daily challenge. Sanitation and communications infrastructures are poor and pedicab, bicycle, car and motorbike traffic defies description. Nevertheless, the city offers a rich culture to those willing to explore. Its markets abound with everything from exotic fruits and magnificent works of art to stylish clothing and kitschy Elvis reproductions. The city boasts several five-star hotels, a fantastic selection of Vietnamese, Asian and continental restaurants and outstanding sports facilities, including three golf courses. Although many of its historical landmarks have been destroyed or lost over the years, many remain, including a number of ancient temples. Recently built museums celebrate the country's reunification. Two international schools cater to an active expatriate community. In the early- to mid-1990s, the city enjoyed average annual economic growth rates greater than 10 percent, and foreign investors flocked to Ho Chi Minh City, expecting Vietnam to be the next Asian economic tiger. In the past two years, the economy has cooled and a number of foreign investors have left. Ho Chi Minh City's leaders remain optimistic, however, that continued economic reforms will re-ignite the local economy and investor interest. Within a few hours of Ho Chi Minh City, over well-paved roads lie the beaches of Long Hai, Vung Tau and Phan Thiet, where landscapes are now dotted with world-class hotels. The Mekong Delta, the agricultural heartland of Vietnam, is filled with lush vegetation. Its fascinating network of rivers and canals offers boats and boatsmen eager to transport visitors on "eco-tours" to reforested mangrove plantations, bird sanctuaries or islands covered with coconut, banana and papaya trees. The old imperial capital of Hue retains much of its rich past, despite the destruction it has endured over the years, including palaces within the walls of the Hue Citadel and the tombs of the Nguyen Dynasty emperors located in various spots on the city's outskirts. The mountain resort of Dalat is famous for its cooler and less humid climate and production of fruits, vegetables and flowers. The consulate general staff considers itself fortunate to serve in Ho Chi Minh City. Although it is a city with a past of unique importance to Americans, the post's attraction goes much deeper. Americans, particularly those working at the consulate general, are treated with respect and embraced by most Vietnamese. This is a young city--approximately 80 percent of its population was born after the war ended in 1975--that does not dwell on the past. Vietnamese citizens look forward to a brighter economic future and a more significant place in the world, and they view Americans, particularly those with the U.S. Consulate General, as an important link to that future. The staff welcomes that role and looks forward to realizing the great potential of this burgeoning bilateral relationship.
Return to Vietnam
By Charles A. Ray As the Vietnam Airlines Airbus 300 began its descent into Tan Son Nhat Airport, the realization hit me that it was May 12, 1998, and, after 25 years and three months, I was returning to Vietnam. I had just spent four days in Hanoi. But, since that was not the Vietnam familiar to me, the place seemed remote and unreal. Furthermore, those days were devoted to checking in at the embassy prior to taking up my assignment as the first U.S. Consul General in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) since 1975, a process that left little time for reflection on the past. But during the two-hour flight from Hanoi, memories came flooding back. My previous experience in Vietnam (1968-69 and 1972-73) had been during turbulent years. I had lost many close friends during those tours, but over the intervening years, I had blocked the pain and loss. Now, I wondered whether returning to Vietnam was a good idea. Could I be objective in carrying out my assignment? Would I meet with acceptance or rejection? The city's skyline had completely changed. Formerly, the city's tallest structures were the Caravelle Hotel, the six-story U.S. Embassy and the steeple on Notre Dame Cathedral near the center of the city. Now, soaring hotels, apartment buildings and office towers dwarfed those buildings. Some things, though, hadn't changed. The traffic flow still resembled a demolition derby. And the energy and warmth of the Vietnamese people were as pervasive as ever. From my first day, I was greeted with acceptance and genuine friendliness. Old and young (Vietnam is an incredibly young country) were hard at work, making up for the lost years when Vietnam was cut off from the outside world. The past: for those under 30, a myth passed along by the old; for almost everyone else a dim memory. The focus in today's Vietnam seems to be on a brighter future. We are now marking the fifth anniversary of formal relations between the United States and Vietnam. As I look back over the two years of my involvement, I am convinced more than ever that coming back was the right thing to do. |
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irst-time visitors to Ho Chi Minh City are almost always surprised by the level of activity in Vietnam's commercial hub. Reunified under Hanoi 25 years ago, the former Saigon has nevertheless retained its capitalistic roots. Street markets are vibrant, and the venerable shopping areas of the past teem with Vietnamese and foreign shoppers.
