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Back in Ubud the answer was waiting. Nyoman and. his entire family - aunties, cousines, babies and all, dressed in their finest temple clothes, - were huddled in a dejected heap under a shade tree in their courtyard. One baby was fretfully suckling its mother's breast, another whimpering. Each and every one looked as though they wanted to give the whole ghastly thing away and get on with doing something pleasant, like carrying rocks or hauling buckets of water up the side of a cliff. Politely Nyoman explained. No, the car I'd used was not a hire car. He'd loaned me his own car and driver, to make it easier for us all to go to Tampaksiring together. Like I said, talk
as you will about Gunung Kawi and its muscle-building steps, but never,
never mention Tampaksiring. "How come you
visit Bali so often, when you have to leave behind all the good things
of life - the color TV, beautiful home, big cities, fast highways, the
telephone, electricity, cinemas, expensive cars, theatres, nightclubs,
take-away meals, trains . There came a day when I was back in Australia - in the midst of civilised comfort - five dogs were barking - each in a different beautiful house and each at his own pitch and rhythm. Across the road a man was swearing to himself as he scooped garbage off the footpath and angrily stuffed it back into a bin overturned during the night by yet another doggy delight. Nextdoor, a neighbor was busily cutting his lawn with a raucous 4-stroke mower. Over my back garden came the shattering sounds of a high-fi giving out heavy rock. It hit the air with waves of solid premeditated voilence - my sunroom windows rattled. Even my 20-year old camellia bushes seemed to shudder - the spring daffodils stopped dancing and dejectedly hung their heads.
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we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between
two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists
of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided
in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The
former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still
considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely
purified ancestors who are considered as divine. Everything Bali Indonesia |
