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The Wayback Machine - https://web.archive.org/all/20051119134213/http://www.fishingandboats.com:80/Sail.html
Deck winches make sail handling easy
TAKE THE MUSCLE OUT OF SAIL HANDLING
Does sail handling on your yacht wear you out? These days many people are
going yachting single or shorthanded, or are retired couples or other with physical
limitations and who simply don’t have the same strength of a team of young and
fit ocean racing crew. Fortunately, like many things in yachting, life is becoming
that much easier with the electric powered deck winch. On more than a few
occasions on my own recent single handed cruise did I wish for an electric
powered deck winch, in particular with some serious heavy weather to cope with.
Whilst it is easy to adopt the purist view to handle sail trim and stick with winch handles and tell
myself it's all good exercise, however I am sure my muscles would welcome the
upgrade. This wish was further reinforced when I roped in a friend to winch me
up the mast and he injured his back in the process. The electric deck winch
would also have been exceedingly useful in some river marinas in France, where
wind and current made tying up a challenge. As I sail short handed, using an
electric deck winch would have been very useful pulling myself alongside, with
long keel heavy displacement boats like mine, marina handling can be a little
traumatic compared with many modern boats. For those looking at the costs of
installing electric deck winches a single unit can be installed and cross sheeting
of genoa and mainsail sheets or halyards is easily achieved. Lastly an electric
winch is definitely an advantage hauling someone back on board should have
someone go overboard and I have found them useful hauling a dingy on board.
Although not strictly electric, hydraulic power pack based winch systems also
require electric power, and this is a trend on many larger yachts which also
power sail furlers, windlasses and thrusters off the power packs.
OPERATION AND PERFORMANCE FACTORS
Electric winches are sized according to the highest projected load, so that when
one is used for all functions then it should be rated for the genoa loads. Similar
to anchor windlasses the line speed decreases with an increase in the loads.
There is a clear correlation between line speed and current draw with respect to
loads applied. Control systems are set to cut out at the Safe Working Load
(SWL) which is 50% of the breaking load. Also a consideration is what are called
dynamic load surges which occur when really putting hard sail sheet loads on the
winch, and these are allowed for in safe working loads. Winches are commonly
2 speed in manual mode operation, and some have a single speed in electric
mode. Others have dual speeds in both manual or electric mode, and speed
selection is a great advantage such as in light winds when you want the genoa
winch speed on fast only. Two speed electric winches are naturally more energy
efficient when used in the lower gear, and as single speed winches operate
within the upper operating range of the motor they have a higher current
consumption. As the line speed reduces considerably when used in the upper
range, the actual period of use is the same as in two speed operation with a
greater current draw.
When an electric winch is used in manual operation mode the insertion of the
winch handle will lock out the electric drive mechanism, which prevents the
operation of the electric motor and the winch gears. If the winch handle is locked
in there is no risk of the handle rotating when the winch activates. I have
experienced a few cases where accidental operation of exposed switches has
occurred so install switches with guards to prevent accidental operation. It is
important to always isolate the circuit when tailed up or leaving the boat so that
accidental operation does not occur. This also applies when doing any
maintenance on the winch. It is important to note that winches must be installed
with optimum rope to drum lead angles and this is typically in the range of -5 to -
10 degrees
INSTALLATION NOTES
The basic question that is often asked is how much electric power is required?
This is the perennial question for most sail boat owners is part of the battery
capacity and charging problem. The answer is relatively small amounts however
there are high power demands for short durations and the high current surges
can exceed 150 – 200 amps for a second or two. Actual cumulative operation
time over a 24 hour period may only be 10 minutes or so. I prefer to power
winches from a starting battery bank, although this should be of increased size to
cope with the additional loads, and in this regard the engine start battery can be
paralleled with another of equivalent size. Never connect to the house battery
bank as the sudden surges can cause a severe voltage drop that can cause
problems on connected electronics and equipment. One should install the
largest cold cranking rating battery possible. The issue is maintaining the
required voltage to the winch motor and the reason start batteries are used is
that they can deliver this power without a significant voltage drop in the process.
There is also a requirement for a capability for a deep cycle capability which the
start battery can not provide.
The AGM batteries offer an ideal compromise solution to this type of application,
and suit both start and some cycling as well as no maintenance. The capacity
question is dependent on winch electric motor size, the frequency of winch
operation, that is to say how often you trim sail etc and the projected intervals between recharging the batteries, something that is foremost on most sail boat owners minds. The
average power consumption is typically in the range 50 – 60 amp hours over a
24 hour period in average wind conditions. Whilst the trend is to calculate the
daily amp hour draw on house battery banks, this is now becoming an important
issue with start batteries, or at least an analysis of loads applied. It has long
been a personal contention that sail boat start battery banks always remain
separate and "untouchable". The trend to using high current equipment such as
electric winches, anchor windlasses, toilets and hydraulic power pack motors
where separation from house power is desirable for a variety of reasons that
include power supply voltage stability makes a third battery bank a viable and
sensible option, or a much larger starting bank. Typical battery bank size
recommendations on an average sail boat are 300-400 amp hours. Similarly operating on 24 volts has
definite advantages and the future trends up to 42 volts will offer real advantages
in equipment and cable sizes (but that is whole different subject).
The installation of an electric winch on a sail boat is fairly easy. Electric winch motors are relatively small and they come in either horizontal or vertical configurations that
suit a variety of space considerations. Each manufacturer offers different
options. In most cases it simply requires the installation of the cables and the
protection to the winch control unit, the motor, the control switch and you have a
new and well muscled crew member. It must not be forgotten that winches can
be operated in manual mode using the winch handle.
Each winch model manual specifies the recommended cable sizes rated for the
winch electric motor current and the projected cable distance. It also specifies
the circuit breaker or fuse protection ratings. As an example a total cable length
of 20 feet will require a 2 AWG cable size which gives a 100 amp rating, while 30
feet run will go to 0 AWG. Voltage drop is an important consideration in
maintaining performance, and preferably I install winches with much larger
cables than recommended, the cost is small when weighed up against
maintaining voltage levels and therefore maximum power ratings. It's also easier
on the electric motors. Circuit breaker protection and isolators should be as
close as practicable to the battery and be accessible
Locate the control pushbuttons or switches in a position that prevents accidental
operation, as accidental activation can be and is a problem, and I speak from experience on a friends sail boat here. Control wiring to
deck switches is typically 14 AWG, although the option of air operated switches
is often used. Where air switches are used the tubing must be installed from
switch to sub-box to switch so that no bends or kinks are present and cannot
chafe. The air bleeding holes must be open and clear as when blocked the air
may expand in higher temperature conditions and activate the switch operating
the winch uncontrollably with dire consequences. Imagine a winch suddenly
operating when fully loaded. It has happened with windlasses causing serious
injury.
There are relatively few maintenance tasks for electric winches which include
regular stripping, cleaning and lubrication. Winches require the usual
maintenance tasks such as oiling pawls and the gearbox and switch seals must
be kept dry. Winches may also have oil filled gearboxes and these must be
checked so that oil levels are maintained and not leaking. Take care after use
when checking gearboxes as oil may be very hot. Other important tasks are the
routine inspection of electrical connections, and motor connections should have a
coating of Vaseline or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion. The winch control
boxes also include PCB's and it is important to ensure that water and moisture
are excluded as solder connections and components may degrade. I always put
in a dessicant crystal bag in the box to absorb moisture, which is a simple but
useful measure. Make sure you include these in your sail boat maintenance program
The most common faults for winches not operating are that the winch handle is
left locked in. Normal winch faults such as pawls jamming or springs is not
electrical however the effect is the same. Connection faults are as usual a
problem, particularly on control switches. Where a winch gets a lot of hard use
and has suddenly stopped the motor thermal cut-out if fitted may have tripped.
In summary the electric winch takes a lot of the energy draining physical exertion
out of sail handling. They fit into the same extra crewman category as autopilots
and electric windlasses' and if installed and maintained correctly will operate
reliably.
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