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How to Tighten a Loose Door Hinge

A heavy door puts a constant strain on the hinges, particularly the top one. This can loosen the screws and eventually enlarge the holes so the screws just spin when you try to tighten them. Here's what to do if you're facing this problem.

Steps:

1. Tighten a loose hinge screw with a screwdriver as soon as you notice it. Otherwise the screw's movement will likely strip the hole or cause the door to bind and mar the finish on its frame and edge.

2. If the screw turns but doesn't tighten, the hole is already stripped. For lightweight interior doors, you can probably get away with the following quick fix. Open the door wide and wedge something under the door to take the weight off the hinge. Remove the loose screw and any other screw holding that hinge leaf. Dip a couple of cardboard matches in wood glue or white glue and insert them into the stripped hole. Reinstall the hinge.

3. An even better option is a variation on this idea: Plug the hole with glue-covered wood matches, a golf tee, or a wood shaving cut from the corner of a board with a utility knife. Reinstall the hinge using all the holes except the plugged one. Allow that hole to dry for several hours, cut off any wood that sticks out, and carefully drill a pilot hole in the center. Then drive in the remaining screw.

4. The most effective option, especially for the top hinge of a heavy door, is to replace the existing screw with one at least 2 1/2 inches (6 cm) long. (If you have such a screw handy, it's also the easiest approach.) This long screw will penetrate the frame behind the doorjamb, creating a secure connection. (Want to read more articles about Door Hinge, please visit: ehow.com)

Quick Release Door Hinge Pins

If you have ever wanted to take the doors off of your Full-size Chevy / GMC Truck or Blazer, Read on. This article will show you how to create quick release door hinge pins, so you can get those doors off and back on within a matter of minutes. This is an extremely easy modification. It should take you no more than one afternoon to complete both phases, assuming that you have all the needed parts and tools on hand.

Parts Needed:

1. Universal Door Hinge repair kit. These can be found in any auto parts store in the "Help" section. Remember you will need two of these for each door.

2. A Mini Hitch Pin. The shaft should be small enough to fit through a 5/64" hole. You can find these at any hardware store. You will need two per door.

3. You may also need some washers. These would need to have roughly the same Inside Diameter as the Outside Diameter of the Hinge Pin.

Tools Needed:

1. Angle grinder

2. Drill or Drill Press

3. Vise or Vise Grips

4. Safety glasses

The setup he used is shown above. It would have been nice to have an actual vise to secure the pin in while he worked on it. But the Vise Grips got the job done, with minimal hassle.

-The Dirty Work-

Step 1: Grind off the splines on the top of the hinge. These are used to keep the hinge from popping out. But because they want their hinges to pop out, they have to grind these off. Shown below is the hinge before and after grinding.

Step 2: Drill a hole through the bottom of the hinge pin. The hole needs to be drilled through the part of the hinge pin that is sloping, because this is the only part of the hinge that sticks out of the hinge assembly. He did this by holding the pin with the Vise Grips in one hand and the drill in the other. It would have been much easier with either a Drill Press or a Table Vise, but this method worked fine for me. He used a 5/64" drill bit, and it seemed to be the perfect size. Below is a picture of the hole.

Step 3: Make sure your mini hitch pin fits, and you have yourself a quick release door hinge. Simply repeat these 3 steps for however many pins you need...... (For more info, visit: color adok)

Simulated Butt Hinge Construction

Abstract

A simulated butt hinge assembly comprises an artificial knuckle-pintle- finial butt hinge attached to an L-shaped plate structure. The artificial butt hinge comprises spaced knuckle simulating grooves in a one-piece cylindrical member with finials formed at opposite ends of the cylindrical member, the grooves simulating separate knuckles. The L- shaped plate structure has one plate extending from the artificial hinge assembly and a second plate which is clamped between a flange of a snap type hidden articulating hinge and a movable panel. The articulating hinge has a second flange secured to a frame to rotatably secure the panel to the frame. The artificial hinge protrudes from the part of the panel to simulate a butt hinge. Other embodiments are disclosed including a multiple separate knuckles in an artificial hinge.

Butt Hinge Pin Lock

Abstract

A butt hinge pin lock is provided for securing standard butt hinges against tampering, by removal of the hinge pins. The device described herein is attached to the door, in a manner, and location, that interferes with the removal of the hinge pins by unauthorized persons. It consists of a locking member, which is mounted on the door, using two or more tamper resistant bolts, and employs hardware on the inside of the door, that allows the device to be easily removed from the inside of the room, when necessary. No modifications to the hinges are required, and modifications to the door consist only in the drilling of access holes for the mounting hardware of the invention.

Choosing a Butt Hinge

Hinges can affect the look, durability, and performance of your fine furniture. Here's how to choose the right one for the job.

Don't compromise. Choose a high-quality extruded brass hinge for your furniture. Cheaper stamped hinges are made by pressing thin sheet metal around the pin to form the knuckle. Extruded hinges are tighter than these pressed hinges because the knuckle is fitted together and then drilled in one shot for a precisely fitted hinge pin. Stamped hinges will not be flat, square or drilled accurately, and there will be slop around the hinge pin.

Plan ahead

Choose and purchase hinges during the design stage of a project. You don't want to be ready to hang a door and then realize that the hinge leaf to be mortised into the door is wider than the door stile, or that it leaves just the thinnest ribbon of wood at the back of the mortise to break away someday. Knowing door and carcase dimensions, you can narrow down the possibilities of hinges that will fit. If you're unsure of the best choice, buy two sizes.

Strap Hinges

There are basically three ways to hang a door. You can use a butt hinge, a surface or jamb mounted strap hinge (HF-15) or you can use a pintle hinge.

Pintle hinges are generally used in three specific situations: a period reproduction, a period restoration, or on doors that are heavy and/or quite large.

Pintle hinges have several advantages over the other two methods. The first is that the hinge pin can be sized according to the weight and size of the door. As you can see, they make them with diameters all the way up to 7/8". A hinge with a 7/8" pintle will support a door that is 300lb or more! The second advantage is that the door with the mounted strap can be lifted on and off the pintle. This can be convenient in special situations. A third advantage is that the strap for a pintle hinge can be made in many widths, or shapes. They have made hinges for castle doors that look nothing like an early American strap, and these unusual shapes are always hung with pintles. And finally, the fourth advantage is that they can make the mounting plate whatever size is needed for the project. The ones shown below are sizes they stock, and other sizes can easily be made.

Steam Room Doors

840 and 850 Series

The 840 and 850 Deluxe Framed Bath Enclosures incorporate true luxury with European styling. Formed tubular towel bars, clear finger pulls and a rounded header create a bath enclosure that is truly ahead of its time. The 840 and 850 Steam Sliders are made specifically for steam applications up to 60 wide.

890C Series

Now you can have a hinge door designed specifically for your steam room. The full perimeter vinyl seal combines with a full-width drip rail and vinyl squeegee to ensure that both the steam and shower spray stay inside the enclosure. 890C Series Steam Doors operate freely on a Continuous Hinge system for widths up to 30".

891C Series

The 891C Series Door and Panel adapts quickly and economically to virtually any shower opening from 36" to 60" wide. The door is a continuous hinge specifically for a steam enclosure. Economy comes from matching custom-tempered sidelite glass with a standard size door.

The Wonderful Modern World of Cabinet Hinges

The Butt Hinge

But even with all the new stuff on the market every retail outlet big and small seems to have no inventory shortages of butt hinges. Big butts, little butts, loose pin butts, fixed pin butts, butts of every shape and size. Many dedicate entire isle displays to those bad old funky butts,.. go figure!

Webster defines the word "butt" (as it's used here) as: "To place end to end without overlapping" or, "to join along the edges". The butt hinge is designed to install at the point where two components butt together.

Don't get me wrong, he believe there is definitely a place and a purpose for butt hinges in this world. Butt hinges are still the industry standard in home building for interior and exterior doors and may always be. But as for the cabinet industry, the use of butt hinges is most definitely the exception and not the rule. Trying to hang cabinet doors with those turkeys is a severe pain in the...(you guessed it!)

Too often a dedicated miser or miserette will lovingly and painstakingly craft his or her creation to the point of near completion needing only that final touch of perfection. Then upon entering their local hardware retailer they find themselves staring agape at a sea of butts. Some poor souls give up out of frustration and go ahead and put these nasty old ugly things on their beloved creations.

The Euro Hinge

The great thing about the European style hinge is that they are designed with built in adjustment features that allow you to align your cabinet doors just exactly the way you want them. For us wood misers who are working with production equipment that is less than surgically accurate this is just what the doctor ordered!

"Euro" hinges are made for both overlay and inset door applications. Each hinge is sold separately from its base plate (the hardware that mounts on the carcass wall or face frame). The reason they are sold this way is that the base plate is the determining factor as to whether the hinge is a overlay or inset.

As you have probably already figured out, all of these fancy features come with a price tag. You're going to have to fork over a few extra sawbucks to get set up with this system but I'm confident that you'll find it well worth the expense. The hinges themselves can run anywhere from about $3.50 each (not a pair) to $6.00 each depending on what kind of action you want from them. The base plates will run about a buck a piece.

Most all of the euro-style hinge designs mount on the door into a 35 mm hole (referred to as the "cup drilling") which stows the neat little machinery of the things. Unfortunately there is no fudging on drilling this hole, You have to have a 35mm bit specifically made for the job and believe me they're not cheap. It will set you back about $35.00. Also, hand drilling the "cup hole" is not recommended. Using a drill stand or drill press would be the smart and safe way to go.

Now, while you're picking yourself back up off of the floor let me say that he knows how you feel. As a matter of fact he put off jumping into this system for years, but as a professional it was definitely worth the investment for the time saved in monkeying around trying to align doors. Anyway, my customers love the completely concealed look, and I'm kinda partial to it myself.

The Standard European Hinge

The standard "Euro" hinge is used mostly in frameless cabinet applications. They mount directly on the inside wall of the cabinet carcass. These can work out great if the style of cabinet you're building has a more contemporary flavor. A frameless carcass can work to you're advantage in that there is time and money saved in not having to fabricate or install a face frame. You can use this style of hinge in a face frame application but they are a bit more of a hassle in that you have to mount them on shims or blocks to bring them flush with the inside of the vertical face frame. (Want to read more articles about Cabinet Hinge, please visit: members)

How to Repair a Gate

A wooden gate takes a lot of punishment from all that opening and closing--and even more abuse once your kids find out how much fun it is to hang on and go for a ride on it. If your gate sags, or it won't open or close easily, first check the gatepost with a carpenter's level to make sure it is plumb and sturdy, and then fix it with the techniques below if necessary. Without a strong supporting post, any repairs to the gate itself will just be a temporary solution.

Straightening a gatepost

Steps:

1. Dig away the soil from the side toward which the post is leaning to create a hole about 18 inches (45 cm) deep and 10 inches (25 cm) around.

2. Loosely pack some long, narrow stones into the hole; stop a few inches (about 7 cm) below ground level.

3. Position the post so it is perfectly vertical (check this with a carpenter's level).

4. Cut a piece of 2-by-4 scrap lumber to make a 2-foot-long (60- cm-long) wedge, cutting the angle along its length. Place the long, flat (not angled) side of the wedge against the post.

5. Hammer down the top of the wedge until it is flush with the ground level and the stones are locked in place.

6. Shovel soil on top of the rocks; tamp down.

Pulling up a sagging gate

Steps:

1. Reinstall any gate-hinge screws that are coming out of the post. To do this, first remove the screws holding the bottom hinge to the post, then remove the top hinge screws. Remove the gate.

2. Fill the holes with wood putty; let it harden.

3. Replace the top hinge first, then replace the bottom hinge. Use screws that are as long as possible without coming out the other side of the post.

4. If there is enough room, add a new third hinge in the middle for extra support.

5. With a level, check to see if the gate is now level across the top and plumb at the end.

6. If the gate sags at all, install a turnbuckle tension rod assembly to opposite corners of the gate frame. Make sure the high side of the cable is installed on the side of the gate with the hinges.

7. Tighten the turnbuckle until the gate is level and clears the ground properly.

Making a gate close smoothly

Steps:

1. Check with a level to make sure the side of the gate with the latch and the post next to it are both plumb. Straighten the post or the gate as above if needed.

2. If the gate sticks closed in wet weather due to wood expansion, plane off 1/4 inch (6 mm). Paint or stain the newly exposed wood.

3. If the latch falls short of its catch in dry weather due to wood contraction, remove the latch and reposition it so that it easily reaches the catch.

How to Fix a Binding Door

Wood doors that once fit perfectly may bind due to loose hinges, seasonal expansion of the door or, in rare cases, settling of the house. Fixes range from simple to complex, depending on the problem's extent and cause. If planing is required and you don't own a jack plane or larger power plane, consider renting one for the task.

Tightening loose hinges

Steps:

1. If the hinges are loose, especially the top one, the door will likely bind near the top of the opposite jamb. Use a screwdriver to tighten any loose screws.

2. If a screw turns but doesn't tighten, replace the existing screw with a longer one that will penetrate the frame or go deeper into the door. Alternatively, plug the screw hole with small slivers of wood (matches, toothpicks and so forth) dipped in glue, then reinstall the screw (this approach is adequate only for lightweight interior doors).

Adjusting hinge-mortise depth

Steps:

1. If the door binds at the hinge side just before it closes, place a layer of noncorrugated cardboard under the hinges to shim them. Either fix one hinge leaf at a time in place, or remove the door and do all of the hinges at once.

2. To remove a door, support its weight on wood shims and then tap a nail into the hole under each hinge pin to drive the pin out a little. Tap the pins out the rest of the way with a hammer and screwdriver placed under the head of the pin.

3. If the door binds on the lock side and the hinge leaves project above the wood surface, deepen each mortise with a hammer and chisel. Cut the perimeter with the chisel vertical and its beveled side facing the mortise. Then make numerous consistent, shallow cuts spaced about 3/16 inch (5 mm) apart over the entire mortise, with the chisel held at a slight angle, bevel side down. Lay the chisel nearly flat to scrape out the small pieces and smooth the bottom of the mortise.

Door is too large for opening

Steps:

1. If the door fits in winter but not in summer or in damp weather, when it expands, inspect its underside with a mirror for visible breaks in the paint or varnish. If the finish is not completely sealed, wait until the weather is dry and the door isn't binding, then apply a new finish. Use a paint pad that allows you to paint the bottom edge of a door without removing the door (sold at paint stores), or remove the door to brush it on.

2. For more severe problems with a door that doesn't seal properly, plane it. First test the jamb with a carpenter's square and spirit level to see if it's square and plumb.

3. Only if the jamb is out of square and you don't want to remove the casing to correct the problem should you plane the door's strike edge. Plane the edge near the top or bottom as needed to create a consistent gap all around the door. If the door binds near the handle, plane the hinge side.

4. If the jamb is square, close the door and set a carpenter's scribe to the widest gap dimension, or about 3/16 inch (5 mm) minimum. Hold it perpendicular to the door with its metal point against the jamb's edge and its pencil on the door's face, and draw a line parallel to the jamb along the entire length of the hinge side of the door.

5. Remove the door and stand it on its edge in a door jig to remove the hinges. To make a door jig, nail two triangular pieces of 2-by-4 wood to the wide edge of a longer 2-by-4. Space the triangular pieces about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Then do the same with another 2-by-4. Stand the door on the 2-by-4s between the plywood, and tap in a shingle tip or other shim.

6. Using the scribed line on the other side of the door as a reference, remove material from the edge with a jack (see B) or power plane. To remove an even amount, use long strokes from end to end. To achieve a taper, start planing where you need to remove the most wood. With each successive stroke, extend the cut more.

7. Finish with one or two light passes over the full length and chisel the hinge mortises deeper as needed. Install the hinges and hang the door to test the fit. When it's right, remove the door and hinges for sanding and finishing. Allow paint or finish to dry before you hang the door.

How to Choose the Right Hinge

A hinge consists of two wings held together with a pin called a pivot pin. Some are made for either right- or left-handed openings, while others are specifically for one or the other. Hinges can be recessed by sinking them in a mortise.

Steps:

1. Choose a loose-pin butt hinge wherever you want to be able to remove a door without having to remove the hardware. This type allows you to pull the pin out and take the hinge apart.

2. Select a ball bearing hinge for heavy doors. Its bearings are permanently lubricated for a lifetime of smooth use.

3. Use flush hinges on lightweight interior doors. This surface-mounted hinge doesn't leave a gap because of its low profile.

4. Put a piano hinge on furniture flaps such as table wings and chest lids. This type of hinge can be cut to the correct length and surface- or recess-mounted.

5. Try a box hinge for small chests. This type opens only to 90 degrees. Larger chests, heavy doors and gates should be outfitted with strap hinges, which are wider and available in plain or decorative styles.

How to Install Plantation Shutters

Steps:

1. These shutters are “custom” built, meaning that just as identical window openings vary slightly in width and height, the custom shutters built for those windows also vary to the same degree. Sort through the shutter panels in your order so that you know which panels combine to fit in each window opening. Each shutter panel, on the end, will be marked with your acknowledgement number, and with the number of the item on the acknowledgement (item #1 = window opening #1) to help you pair the panels up.

2. Within each window grouping all shutter panels will be the same height. Arrange the panels so that the rabbeted edges (see figure below) overlap each other properly. When all panels, mounting strips and hinges are placed together properly in this type of "framed” mount, the total width and height of the set should be the same as the width and height measurements given in your order.

3. Install shutter panels with the “notch” for the pushrod at the top. When installed, the pushrod faces the room.

4. Each piece of mounting strip is precisely cut. If your original measurements on the order were accurate, these strips should not require adjustment or modification.

5. On a flat surface, assemble the 3- or 4-sided frame for your shutters using the included screws in the pre-drilled, counter-sunk screw holes that are perpendicular to each miter cut. Be very careful not to put undue strain on the corners of the frame as you handle it. Excessive force applied to the screws will split the wood. When the frame is assembled, place the shutter panels in position and replace all included hinge pins.

6. Attach the framing pieces to your window jamb with ~60mm drywall screws, if you have either wooden or drywall jambs. Jambs of other types of material (brick, cement, metal, etc.) will require other types of screws or fasteners.

7. Place the frame (usually done without the shutters in place … remove hinge pins) in the window. The mounting strip should be attached to the jamb with screws as shown in the drawing at the top of the first page. They recommend that you “counter-sink” the screws so when installation is complete the heads of the screws will be out of sight below the surface of the strip.

8. In this type of mount, it is sometimes necessary to “shim” between a framing piece and the jamb so the frame will be square and the shutter panels will fit properly within it. If spacer shims are needed, back the mounting screws out, insert the shims, and re-tighten the screws. Do not use excessive force in tightening the mounting screws because this could split the wood. Once firmly attached, replace the hinge pins you removed in the previous step. Carefully swing the shutter open to check for alignment problems in relation to the sill.

9. The magnets will be mounted at the top immediately behind the shutter panels on the edge of the top mounting strip that faces down. With the left shutter panel open on it’s hinges, position a magnetic catch immediately behind the "stile" of the right panel. Using the 2 matching screws provided, attach the magnet to the trim. Magnetically stick the strike plate to the magnet with the 2 tiny "points" facing the room, then gently press the shutter panel against the strike plate to make marks in the wood of the shutter "stile". Using those marks as your placement guide, attach the strike plate to the back of the "stile" with the smallest screw provided (see figure below, left). Using the same procedure, attach any other magnetic catches that are appropriate to your installation. If you prefer, the magnets can be mounted to the sill, or to the bottom strip of a 4-sided frame.

10. Use the touch-up paint (included if the shutters were painted at the factory) on any areas which were marred during the project.

11. All shutter panels come with "tension" screws deeply counter-sunk in each vertical edge. By simply turning the screw a little clockwise or counter-clockwise with your Phillips head screw driver, you can gently tighten or loosen the louver/pushrod tension in each individual panel to suit your preferences. When adjusting the tension, always spread the amount of adjustment evenly between all screws in BOTH edges of the individual panel. (Continue to learn more about Shutter Hinge, please visit: decorama)

4" Double Action Spring Hinge

This is the type of hinge used on old Western Style bar doors. They mount on doors allowing them to swing both ways and when they're let go, they return to the closed position. Use on kitchen doors, parts room doors, or any door that must allow people to go both ways. Maximum door thickness is 1-1/4". Available in gray only.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:

To apply the hinges it is necessary to release the tension on the springs. Insert the tension adjuster in one of the holes in the tension lug and turn it so the tension rivet can be removed. Apply the hinges near the top and bottom of the door.

Fit the DOOR FLANGE into the door so the shoulder at each end of the flange is flush with the surface of the door. The JAMB FLANGE is applied to the surface of the door casing. The door must be located midway between the axial centers of the double acting hinge.

It is necessary that the hinges be applied on a door in axial alignment with each other.

With the door in the closed position apply equal tension to the springs by turning the tension lug away from the edge of the flange which contacts the tension rivet. Then insert the tension rivet and the recoil of the spring will contact it with the flange.

BE SURE to turn the tension lug in the correct direction. Turn it toward the left when hinge is applied with tension lug at the top and toward the right when the tension lug is at the bottom.

It is important to select a size of hinge suitable for the requirements. If they are too small and overloaded the door will not operate satisfactorily or breakage may occur.

Hager Hinge Background And Statement OF Issues

Hager Hinge is an active site located at 100 West Hamric Drive (U.S. Highway 78) in Oxford, Alabama. The site consists of approximately 31 acres. Hager Hinge has manufactured hinges, angle supports, screws, and other small metal articles at this site since 1978. Facility operations are conducted in a 150,000 square foot building built in 1952 by the previous occupants, General Electric.

The Hager Hinge site is located in a predominately light industrial/commercial area. The site is bounded to the west by Southern Tool, to the east by a local church, to the north by U.S. Highway 78, and to the south by vacant wooded land owned by the facility. The nearest residence is located approximately 1/8 mile upgradient of the site. Groundwater in the vicinity of the site flows south to southwest (although the shallow aquifer may fluctuate seasonally).

A municipal water supply well (Coldwater Well) is located 3 miles west of the site and supplies the drinking water for all single family residents in the area of the site and on-site workers. One abandoned private well is located 1/4 mile south of the site at the Don Lee Trailer Park. The private well was closed in 1995. Residents of the park currently receive water from the Coldwater municipal water supply system.

Prior to approximately 1990, Hager Hinge used a large parts washer (vapor degreaser) that utilized trichloroethylene (TCE) to clean equipment. General Electric may have used TCE in their operations and may have stored it on-site in above ground and below ground storage tanks. In 1993, an environmental survey of the property detected TCE in on-site soil and groundwater. Consequently, on-site sampling was conducted which detected TCE in subsurface soil (4-60' deep) at concentrations ranging from below detection limits (BDL) to 594 parts per million (ppm). Groundwater sampling indicated levels of TCE at a maximum concentration of 436,000 parts per billion (ppb). Along with TCE contamination, sampling from one groundwater monitoring well detected benzene at 2070 ppb.

Thirteen groundwater monitoring wells are currently located on-site. Quarterly groundwater monitoring results from February 1994 to December 1997, detected TCE and benzene at maximum levels above ATSDR health comparison guidelines. TCE was detected at concentrations ranging from non-detect (ND) to 259,000 ppb. Benzene was detected at a maximum concentration of 1465 ppb. Quarterly groundwater monitoring will continue until contaminant concentrations meet the clean-up levels established by the Alabama Department of Environmental Management (ADEM).

Sampling of the Coldwater Well and the abandoned private well detected concentrations of TCE above levels of health comparison guidelines, however these concentrations did not exceed EPA's Maximum Contaminant Levels (MCL). MCL's are the maximum permissable levels of a contaminant in drinking water. Quarterly monitoring reports for Coldwater Well from December 1988 to March 1997, indicate that TCE was detected at a maximum concentration of 3 ppb. Prior to its closure, groundwater samples taken at the private well from 1989 to 1994, detected TCE at a maximum concentration of 5 ppb. Coldwater Well continues to be sampled on a routine quarterly basis as are all municipal public water supply wells.

In November 1995, ADEM issued a directive to Hager Hinge to address TCE contamination in subsurface soil and groundwater at the site. In May 1996, Hager Hinge selected a Multi-Phase Vacuum Extraction (MPVE) treatment system for site remediation of subsurface soil and groundwater. In January 1997, the MPVE was fully installed and began operations. Since remediation efforts began, no soil sampling has been conducted. Groundwater sampling, after installation of the MVTE system, indicates TCE concentrations ranging from non-detect to 116,000 ppb at the site.

On October 10, 1997, Mr. Ben Moore of the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), and Dr. Brian Hughes and Ms. Yvonne Barnett of the ADPH conducted a site visit at Hager Hinge. The site appeared well maintained. Most of the site was surrounded by a chain link fence. The vapor extraction unit and the groundwater monitoring wells were observed and were in working order. The contaminated subsurface soils had not been disturbed. No community complaints have been made regarding the site.

How to Install Hinges

1. Selecting Right or Left Hand Hinges

Most hinges are reversible. By reversible they mean they can be used with either end mounted in an upright position.

However, some hinges are made specifically for either a right or a left hand door. They cannot be reversed. In this case you must select the proper hinge for right or left hand use. The question is: How do you know which hinge to use? Let's suppose the hinge is a loose pin hinge. In this case the hinge must be mounted in such a way that the pin can be removed from the top. In other words, the hinge cannot be reversed.

The outside of a door is the corridor side of an interior door or the outside of an exterior door. Stand on the outside of a door. If the door opens from you and to your right, it will require right hand hinges. If it opens from you and to your left, it will require left hand hinges.

2. Selecting the Correct Hinges for the Job

One of the advantages of the ball bearing hinge is that it is permanently lubricated. These hinges are primarily designed for use on heavy doors opening to the exterior of a building. They can be used, however, on any door that might get unusual use.

The double acting hinge is used primarily on folding doors. Study the illustration carefully. You will note that this double acting hinge permits the door to open in either direction.

The pivot hinge can be used for overlay doors, recessed doors or flush doors. The primary advantage of the pivot hinge is that it requires no door frame for mounting.

The gravity pilot hinge can be purchased with or without a hold-open stop.

The offset blind hinge is used almost exclusively on screen or storm doors. The design of the hinge permits a full opening and a swing-away of the storm or screen door without interference from the hinges.

The spring loaded hinge has a built in spring mechanism that closes the door after each opening. Some models of spring loaded hinges have adjustable tension features that permit tightening or loosening the hinge as you would an ordinary door closer.

Parliment hinges are used where the pin of the hinge must project well beyond the face of the door.

The back flap hinge is a version of the butt hinge. However, it is somewhat smaller. It is primarily a furniture type hinge and not widely used on general construction.

The table top hinge can be used for any construction where one leaf in a section of wood needs to be dropped, somewhat like a table top.

Ornamental hinges are used almost exclusively on cabinet work and on some types of furniture.

The rustic semi-concealed hinge is available in many colors and designs. The semi-concealed feature of the hinge gives the exposed portion a very neat appearance.

The H and HL hinges are also rustic type hinges used on light cabinet work where appearance is extremely important. If hinges of this type are used, you should be sure to match all other cabinet hardware to the same appearance and design.

Strap hinges, T hinges and continuous hinges are special types of hinges used only on special occasions. The strap and T hinges are available in many sizes. They are used primarily for heavy, rough type installation.

The continuous hinge is also called a piano hinge. It is used primarily on lids of chests, cabinets or in any other place where a hinge of this type might prove superior to ordinary hinge installations. Continuous hinges are available in many sizes and finishes.

3. Installing Hinges

Most butt hinges have to be recessed into both the door and the door facing. When the hinge is installed only the knuckle of the hinge is visible.

The hinge should be laid against the edge of the door and the facing where it is to be mounted and markings made as illustrated.

How the recessing is done will depend on how you plan to mount the hinges. The most common way is to recess the hinge into both the door and the door case. When this is done, the recessing is equal on both the edge of the door and the facing. However, in some cases the recess can be cut entirely into the door or into the door mount.

The door can be installed on the door mount instead of flush as previously illustrated. Even in this case, however, the hinge must be recessed equally or unequally as previously illustrated. After measuring the width and depth of the hinge, saw and chip out the recessed area with a wood chisel and a hammer.

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