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tall pyramids of earthern pots on their head, with ice-sellers and their eternal cry of "Es-Es", cheerfully edging their way through the crowd .....

My taxi, which looked as if it would have difficulties even if preceded by a police escort, hurled itself merrily into the assorted melee, honking its horn with unflagging gusto, weaving around

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buses, scattering dogs, squeezing past laughing groups of children, and all the time the never-ending blare of the horn and the frantic effort to keep at top speed, as if fleeing in the face of some natural disaster.

A final earsplitting blast on the horn as we swerved left to dodge a family of four, miraculously glued together on the back of the one motorbike; a sharp lurch to the right to avoid a head on crash with a lorry full of worshippers returning from a temple ceremony - and Denpasar was behind us.

Along the roads we rushed, through innumerable villages, whose high mud walls, topped with thatched roofs, seemed literally to squeeze open to let us through. Incredible that such a huge car could pass through such narrow lanes at such speed. On we raced over rivers, across bridges, wher~ the carved stone gods, a hibiscus of frangipanni bloom tucked behind their ears, sat placidly on guard - assuring the traveller a safe journey - the little offering of rice and flowers lying at each god's feet, a gentle reminder to him to do his best!

 

 

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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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