Starting in 1996, Alexa Internet has been donating their crawl data to the Internet Archive. Flowing in every day, these data are added to the Wayback Machine after an embargo period.
Boat-for-sale or buying a new boat? What type of windlass is on board?
WEIGH ANCHORS WITH AN ELECTRIC WINDLASS
Is your boat-for-sale or are you buying a new one. After my latest cruise I didn't
realize how much I would miss the electric anchor windlass on my previous boat.
It was all hard work and lots of serious manual exercise either using the double
action ratchet systems or resorting to hand over hand pulling in chain when I was
in a hurry. For myself the anchor windlass has a level of importance way up
there with the sails, rig and engine and it's right up there now on my list of things that must be good on the prospective new boat-for-sale listings. It is however crucial that it is properly
selected and installed, and in my experience they are rarely maintained properly
and subsequently many fail to get the performance they should. If you have just put your boat-for-sale sign up ensuring the windlass is in good condition helps to sell the boat, it it doesn't a prospective buyer sees big dollar signs to repair or replace. If means difference between your boat-for-sale being boat sold or still being long term boat-for-sale.
WHICH WINDLASS?
If you are replacing a well worn unit, or upgrading from a manual unit there are
many points that must be considered. It is a good time to review your whole
ground tackle arrangement, and your anchoring techniques. The principal selection criteria are the type of rode, rope and chain or all chain; the length and
weight of anchor rode; the anchor weight; the boat size and the displacement.
Then comes the choice of horizontal or vertical windlass, which are then related
to available space and the anchor chain fall. The minimum anchor winch
capacity is derived from the following formula after working out the chain weight
or chain/rope weight from the table for your vessel size. The x3 factor covers
windage, tidal current and a safety margin.
Windlass Capacity = (Anchor Weight + Chain Weight) x 3
Most manufacturers have useful charts to assist in selecting the right unit, and
many prudently add in a safety margin of 15- 25%. If you are lucky that boat-for-sale you intend buying has all the info still on board and in fact most boat-for-sale specs rrarely give anchor type and weight, or rode type and length, make sure you check.
Vertical windlasses have the motor located below the deck, and horizontal ones
everything is above deck. Vertical units take up less space on deck, although
they can impinge on below decks space. The electric motor is protected,
however access isn't always easy. They do allow the anchor rode to come in at
a range of angles, whereas horizontal units must have the rode properly aligned
if jamming is to be avoided. It is really important to ensure that the chain lead in
angles are correct.
WINDLASS INSTALLATION
Given that the windlass is forward and the battery aft, the electrical supply cable
is long. With the combination of high current loads and cable length it is subject
to voltage drop problems, and anchor windlass performance and therefore lifting
capability is reduced by the installation of incorrectly sized and rated cables. The
anchor windlass cables should be installed following the most direct route to the
engine starting battery, and protected by a properly rated isolator and fuse or
circuit breaker protection. Voltage drop should not exceed 5% and ideally be
sized at 3%. Typical working current loadings are in the range of 55 amps at no
load, 110 amps at half load, and 180 amps full rated load. Many windlasses
have converted DC starter motors, and some use permanent magnet motors,
typically in the range 600-1000 watts which simplifies construction and reduces
weight and size. I am frequently asked about the practice of installing a separate
battery forward adjacent to the windlass, and I do not recommend it. While this is
one more battery to maintain and also weight forward where you don’t want it, it
also still requires charging. This means that a cable at least 30-40% of the
windlass cable needs to be run to also compensate for the voltage drops, so the
real advantages are negated. The engine starting battery should be used as it
has a high cranking amp (CCA) rating and is more capable of delivering the
currents required by a windlass at maximum loads. A flooded cell deep cycle
service battery is not designed for these loads. When surveying that prospective purchase of a boat-for-sale examine the whole system.
About the cables
Once the cables are installed they require proper protection. Slow Blow (time
delay) type fuses are requirements of the ABYC and some manufacturers
integrate this within the control box. They are called slow as they are designed
not to rupture on short transient duration over-currents that occur when breaking
out the anchor, and only when sustained over-currents occur do they blow.
Where solenoid control boxes integrate these and they are located forward close
to the windlass, the cable is unprotected, and a circuit breaker or fuse is required
for the cable. Make sure you carry a spare fuse as few do! If you have suffered
a flat start battery and have put it down to a mysterious leak, check out the
windlass connections either at the control box, control circuit or motor terminals>
It pays to turn the power off when the boat is unattended.
About Circuit Protection
Circuit breakers with a suitable tripping curve are also used, and also may have
the "slow blow" characteristic. They are like fuses and delay opening on low-
level overloads, and trip only on sustained over-currents. The circuit breaker or
fuses should be installed on the supply as close as practicable and accessible to
the battery as possible. Typically these range for 400 watt motor with 40 amp
current a 50 amp breaker, 600 watt is 55 amp with 70 amp breaker etc. Always
use DC rated circuit breakers, usually available from the windlass manufacturers,
and not the AC rated units as some people install. Some boats have
automatically resetting circuit breakers for overload protection, however the
problem is that you have to wait until it resets, which is usually when you
desperately need the windlass, and manual reset breakers offer you some
flexibility, although when it trips reset and operate with caution. If the windlass
has tripped allow 10-15 minutes for the motor to cool down if it's possible as
continued operation may burn the motor out.
About the Connections
Connections are a common cause of failures, mainly those at the motor and the
control circuits. All main power connections should be made with heavy-duty
crimped connectors. Do not solder the connections as dry, high resistance joints
are commonplace and solder has been known to melt under maximum load
conditions. Soldered joints also stiffen up the cables causing fatigue. Always
make sure that the terminal lug hole is a neat fit to the solenoid and motor
terminals to ensure maximum contact and minimal resistance. Use a spring
washer under the terminal nuts to prevent loosening and subsequent heating and
damage under load. Coat the battery terminals with a light coating of petroleum
jelly for corrosion protection.
Another common failure point is the control system. If you are looking at a boat-for-sale check the control system functions. In some simple systems a
footswitch is connected directly in the positive power supply cable to the windlass
motor. Footswitches, especially the cheap ones, are notorious for filling with
water, and in this case either a partial short circuit develops, or the main contacts
and return spring corrodes. Short circuits can result in a brief uncontrolled
operation of the windlass and a severely burnt out switch, so always isolate the
windlass circuit when not it is not in use. This is an essential check point on a boat that has been sitting a long time on the boat-for-sale list. In a single direction solenoid operated
system the footswitch in a control circuit is used to operate a heavy-duty solenoid
located below decks, which closes the main power supply to the motor. The
same arrangements are used for reversible systems, where a control box
consisting of two or four solenoids which are used for reversal of the motor for
both hoist and lower. These systems use two foot switches, and some systems
also have remote panels for control. Never operate both foot switches together,
and many manufacturers specify only the hoist foot control be fitted, with some
incorporating protection. Really make sure when that ideal boat-for-sale is about to become yours that you check the system over well
Some boats have a pneumatic deck footswitch to overcome the problems of
electric ones. These units consist of a PVC tube from the switch to the control
solenoid box, and air pressure from the switch operates a micro-switch. There
have been several instances of spontaneous start up or shut off failures in
extreme heat conditions, in one case causing serious injuries. The problems are
caused by pressure build-up in the air system in high heat conditions. Earlier
units were the most prone to the problems and major suppliers have already
incorporated a safety air bleed to avoid the problem. There are correct
depressurizing procedures when installing switches, so follow them carefully.
Chain counters and controllers are now commonplace and some have controllers
that enable programmed anchor control for precise rode lengths in or out, and
automatic slow down when approaching the stem-head fitting. The display also
shows the actual chain paid out. The system connects to the solenoid control
system for directional commands, and has a simple power input. Like all control
systems the connections must be secure.
GETTING OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE
If you want to get the most out of your windlass then use it the right way. If the boat of your dreams is a boat-for-sale in the latest magazine and you intend looking at it, make sure you test the windlass, don't find out later that it doesnt work. So many times I have witnessed people using windlasses incorrectly and doing
serious damage to them. Typical anchor retrieval speeds are around 30ft/minute
at around 200lb loading, and higher loads will cause a slower anchor retrieval
rate. Windlasses do not have a constant load during anchor recovery, but have a
varying load according to the various phases of anchor recovery. When
operating your windlass take observe the following practices.
Motoring - The first phase involves slowly motoring up over the anchor
so the recovery rate will be at a maximum speed. This removes chain tension
and makes recovery quicker and less load on the motor. The engine alternator
supplies part of the motor load and keeps the motor from impressing a large
voltage surge on the electrical system, and more importantly keeps the voltage
from dropping too low. The windlass should never be used without motoring, the
voltage drop can be severe so that a drop in windlass power occurs after only a
few minutes. If the anchor becomes fouled take the load on the chain-stopper
and use the boat to break it loose and then resume retrieval. If you are sea trialling that boat-for-sale then surprise the owner with a request to test the anchor windlass system, few ever do
Recovery - The load will steadily increase as the tension increases
towards the anchor breakout point. At the breakout point maximum current will
be drawn for a brief period, and this current peak may be as high as 2-3 times
the rated current. Once the anchor has broken out, the load drops as the
windlass hauls the anchor vertically back to the boat. If you are having a
problem with anchor retrieval, do not continue to load the anchor windlass to stall
conditions without stopping every few minutes, and allowing the motor to cool
down. The motor may overheat due to the lower voltage causing damage or
even burnout. Check this during the sea trialling of your boat-for-sale, most owners cant tell you the facts
Most manufacturers publish performance curves and they illustrate the effect
load has on power consumption and the subsequent reductions in hauling
speeds. A point can be reached where the motor will overload and stall. The
higher the load the windlass is operated at the shorter the operation time allowed
on the motor as the higher currents overheat the windings and can burn them
out. Motors have a duty cycle and operating at full rated load means a shorter
available operating time. Does the owner of that boat-for-sale have the information to look at?
When anchored!
A windlass is not designed to take the entire load when riding to anchor,
especially in large swells or heavy conditions, and you can damage the gearbox
with heavy shock loads. As a safety precaution always transfer the load to a
bollard or load bearing point using a rope snubber or use the chain stopper. Also
it is worth checking how solid a base the windlass is mounted on, I was horrified
to see how much stressing the foredeck suffered on one of my boats. Also use a
good swivel between anchor and chain, so that the anchor rolls and comes
neatly into the stem-head fitting. One thing I look at with every boat-for-sale is signs of stressing on the deck area under a windlass, if its stressed or fatigued chances are the windlass has sustained some hard stress too
DO THE MAINTENANCE
If you want the windlass to last more than a few seasons then following a few
basic maintenance tasks is good insurance. The windlass is in the most exposed
of all locations and has to tolerate serious saltwater over it. If that nice boat-for-sale has covers on everything chances are the owner also cares and mantains everything. I always have a
canvas cover made and keep it covered at all times to reduce the effects of
weather, so much damage gets done on a passage with water constantly over
the bows. Always wash the unit down in fresh water to reduce corrosion. Where
there is an oil sump, check it for correct level, and also check oil for water
contamination. Where there is grease points pump in some grease and expel the
old. Try and run the anchor down and up a few times so that the motor warms
up, as windings may absorb moisture. Always do this when that boat-for-sale becomes your boat!
WHEN IT WILL NOT WORK
Mechanical problems are common, mainly it is caused by the chain jamming in
the gypsy, or a poor angle or offset causing the chain not to lead in properly.
Bow rollers are also a problem, and they should be checked for jamming also.
More than once has a chain stopper been left engaged and power applied,
severely stressing the fitting. Another common area is where the chain is not
coming off the gypsy and falling down the hawse pipe, the chain heaps up and
when tension comes off the chain the slack chain also jams. One of the first things that doesnt work after coming off the boat-for-sale list to yourself is the windlass, it sits up front in the weather with little maintenance. If that prospective new boat-for-sale windlass has problems check it out, most owners say "its been alright before!" Right!
If it doesn’t Work!
If the windlass does not operate always check the obvious, such as the circuit
breaker or isolator switched off, or a slow blow fuse failure. Another problem
area is the foot switch, and connections should be checked. Switches full of
water are also a common fault, so open and check it. The next most common
faults are solenoid connections, or solenoid control fuse failures. Loose motor
connections are a common cause of problems as well as motor faults, and
checking for corrosion and degradation of terminals is important. Another point to check on that boat-for-sale you want to buy.
If it runs slow!
If the windlass operates slowly or stalls under load, it is generally due to
excessive load, or a low battery voltage. If that fails to remedy things then check
the battery connections or motor connections, if they are loose or corroded a high
resistance will drop the voltage. The other cause can be a motor fault, and motor
brushes sticking is not uncommon in some motors. Again with second hand boats that have been on the boat-for-sale listings for awhile, the batteries and windlass may be well due for some care.
If the fuse blows or breaker trips!
If the slow blow fuse or circuit breaker has failed, check the windlass is not
jammed or seized, and check it by turning over by hand. If the fuse or circuit
breaker failure is instantaneous, this usually indicates a short circuit in the motor
or terminals. Failure after several seconds indicates overload conditions that
may be due to motor or windlass seizure or jamming. Take the chain off the
gypsy, and try it without chain. After you transfer your new boat from boat-for-sale to my new boat status, chances are it is poorly maintained and needs servicing
Summary
Whether you have a new boat with a windlass, or a looking at a boat-for-sale, make sure it works properly, you life may one day depend on it. Looking for fishing bits and other gear? basspro.com/fishing
Do you fancy a wager on a few sports to while away the long cold winter?
