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Jiwika: Stay with a Dutch missionary here for Rp1000 per day full board. Meet Kurulu, chief of the Jiwika confederation of villages which covers all the land between Jiwika and Uwosilimo, the paramount chief of the eastern side of the Baliem River. His first wife and two sons were killed out in a field by a raiding party. So he started a war, captured the murderers, and ate them. If you ask him how they tasted, he'll smile. Memories are long. Recently when the men of Jiwika wanted to open up new gardens it was necessary for them to fetch some tools in Wamena. No porters could be obtained for the trek to Wamena because the tribesmen feared for their lives. 10 years ago the tribe around Wamena was their enemy! Sometimes as long as 5 or 8 years after a group of tribes had been defeated they would recover, rally, and secretly plan revenge. When the time came these usually peaceful men would become bestial, attacking villages at night, burning down huts, raping women, and killing as many men and boys as they could find. Famine, starvation. and sickness followed. longer walks from Wamena: In the eastern limits of the valley one day's walk from Wamena is a deep grove of casuarina trees rising over 30 m in a region of tree kangaroos and huge tree-climbing rats. Piramid: Named after a mountain here shaped like a pyramid. About a 7-9 hour walk on a vehicular road to this mission station and airstrip. Beautiful panorama. Continue on to the Bokondini Valley, a northern extension of the Baliem. A Japanese millionaire is offering Rpl million for an extremely rare butterfly inhabiting this area which flies very high, is jet black, with two orange spots on its wings. Hometo: Lying on the main trail between the Paniai Lakes and the Baliem Valley, it's a 5 day walk to this land of the Moni people. Trikora Mountain Range: About a 5 day trek. Most people only make it halfway up it's so slippery and hazardous. The peak is no longer permanently snowcapped. Soba and Ninia: The center of cannibal activity, though the missionaries have opened a clinic and are spreading good vibes. It's a one week walk from Wamena, or fly it in 15 minutes on a MAF charter for Rp19,000 or round trip about Rp25,000. Catholic aircraft aren't allowed to land in Ninia. At Soba, see a 1000 year old house and a 200 m high waterfall. Evidences
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in Bali we must point out a very important distinction which the Balinese make between two clearly separate groups of ancestors. The first of these groups consists of the dead who are riot yet completely purified. This group is in turn subdivided in pirata, those riot yet cremated, and pitara, those already cremated. The former are still completely impure; the latter have been purified, but are still considered as distinct, individual souls. The second group consists of the completely purified ancestors who are considered as divine.
No contact is sought with the pirata, the dead who have not yet been cremated. Oil the contrary they are dangerous, Offerings must however be made for the redemption of their souls.

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