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TORAJA LAND

A magnificent rugged mountain country 340 km north of Ujung Pandang in South Sulawesi Province. The hotsprings in this region are said to have wonderous curative effects. Stay away from Torajaland during vacation time in Europe, July and August. It really gets flooded out with sometimes 400-500 French tourists, not travelers, overrunning Rantepao just long enough to buy up all the woodcarvings and other handicrafts. Little groups of kids even sing 'Aleuette' to you in perfect chorus for a handout. See rented jeeps loaded down with tourists careen around the peaceful countryside. Facto and the 12 Objectives have arrived. Dec. is the next busiest time. climate: A delightful, cool highland climate. The dry season is April-November, though it rains sporadically; could start out cloudy, then it clears during the day. The wet season is Dec. - March. getting there: Bad roads and the absence of an airport preserve this area from the fate that overtook Bali. By bus (Liman, Express, JI. Paiya 25, Ujung Pandang), it's Rp1500 from Ujung Pandang, a 10-12 hour ride. The road leads from the southern plain northward over fantastically shaped limestone mountains, fertile valleys, lush vegetation, high peaks and terraces to Rantepao, then down again like a corkscrew to Palopo on the east coast. Ir Torajaland use either Makale (fewer tourists) or Rantepao as your base.
trekking: Since the roads in Torajaland are so bone-jarring in vehicles, walking is more suitable, and because of the mud and rocks, you'll need good footwear to hike. It's always a good idea to take water with you. Carry a flashlight in case you get caught walking at night-time. If you're going into the mountains, take salt, sugar, and betelnut to the villages as a friendly offering. One of the best items to take out to distant kampungs on the long walks is medicine - for them and you - especially antibiotics for carbunkles and skin infections. Hire guides in Rantepao; for two guides perhaps Rp500 per day plus you pay for their food en route. If alone, there are always people around to ask the way. This is provided you speak Indonesian, otherwise it's definitely a handicap. There are coffee and tea stands in most villages where you can get refreshments after walking. Spend the night in the Tongkonan house virtually anywhere in Torajaland. Or ask the kepali kampung about accommodation. Give the lady of the house Rp4-600 per day for food. Although some kampungs will on occasion slaughter a chicken for you, don't expect much more than brown rice straight from the padi and vegetables such as sayur /abuk (pumpkin) and cucumber.