Good to know: In Spanish, coqui means "little frog." But the small size belies a loud and sweet voice that is as much a part of the auditory fabric of Puerto Rico as the sound of waves against the shore. From treetops across the island, each evening at dusk, more than 16 species of these cutie critters begin their nighttime serenade to the stars. Chill-out spot: The beaches at Isla Verde are the perfect place to plunk beneath a palm tree and swill coconut rum or banana smoothies until the sun sets. Lined with high-rise hotels, volleyball nets, and water sports centers, it's a favorite with both locals and tourists. Place we love, even if it's touristy: With evocative colonial cobblestone streets that are blue like the sea, Old San Juan is known for its wrought-iron balconies and windows. Catch glimpses of the cruise ships between the buildings, walk through narrow streets searching for bargains and ceviche, and wear good shoes to take on the city's hills. Did we mention it's free? Take a Sunday afternoon stroll along Via Princessa, when locals bring out their chairs to sit in the sun and gossip. You'll find plenty of food stands, musicians playing guitars and drums, fedora-wearing men in guayavedas (embroidered shirts), and salsa dancing in the streets. History lesson: Go to El Morro to see a six-level fortress (the Caribbean's largest) dating back to the 1500s and incredible views of San Juan Bay. For further 1500s fun, go to La Fortaleza, which was originally built by Charles V to ward off attack by Caribe Indians, but has since been converted into an opulent governor's mansion. Get out of dodge: Considered holy by ancient civilizations and rumored to be visited by aliens, El Yunque rainforest is a spectacular aggregation of vegetation and wildlife. The forest is home to 150 fern species, brilliantly colored flowers, and the nearly extinct Puerto Rican parrot. It lies only 45 minutes from San Juan in the Luquillo Mountains. The real deal: For nature's magic show, wear your goggles at night and go kayaking in a lagoon beneath a crescent moon to see a dazzling display of bioluminescence. The greenish sparkle is actually the light of thousands of glow-in-the-dark plankton, but to the casual observer dipping a paddle into the deep, it looks like illusory pixie dust. You can take it with you: Celebrate folk art and bring a San Juan home to your home. Called facades or casitas, mini renderings of architecturally interesting homes are a big Puerto Rican collector's item, and can be found in ceramic, wood, and crystal. The level of detail is usually astounding, with Spanish-tile roofs and sometimes even little birds perched on a teensy windowsill.
Recommendations & Suggestions:
