Samuel H. Boardman State Park
Boardman State Park is a spectacular stretch of rocky overlooks and uncluttered beaches. Though there are numerous overlooks along the highway, to fully appreciate this park requires taking a hike. The Oregon Coast Trail through Boardman Park is a series of short arcs between viewpoints. Hiking the full length of the park is possible, in all about 20 miles. One word of caution: travelling north on the Oregon coast generally means you will have the wind in your face. This is probably more of an issue for bicyclists, but it's worth considering starting from the north if you are a through-hiker.
Lone Ranch Beach
Kite flying, fishing, rock climbing, and picnicking are all activities for which this popular beach is well suited. I was last there on Easter weekend and counted 40 people on the beach before I grew tired of counting. The busiest area, of course, is right around the parking lot and near the six picnic tables which are located at intervals along the paved path that accesses the beach. Unless you plan to hike northward on the Coast Trail from here, the best part of the beach is south of the parking lot. There are plenty of interesting rock formations to explore, climb, and hide in. Continue around the point, and find a series of more secluded beaches on the southern extreme of the Coast Trail.
Although there is no trail southward connecting Lone Ranch Beach to Harris Beach and Brookings, you can find many interesting spots while walking the beach to its southern extremity. Those feeling particularly spry can even scramble up a slope strewn with boulders to reach a pide, from there either descending to another yet more remote pebbly beach, or climb to a grassy hollow directly beneath an impressive rock face.
Looking up from the hollow directly beneath this rock, you can almost imagine yourself in Yosemite. It looks like a nice spot for a little rock climbing, though I imagine ropes would be necessary. Even those without ropes will enjoy a spectacular view from this soft grassy perch beneath the cliff.
Hike: Lone Ranch to Cape Ferrelo
Hiking north from here requires fording a small creek. The best way is to stay on the beach, since there is no good place to get across upstream. In summer, the water level is low and shouldn't cause problem. Watertight boots are, however, a big plus for anyone planning to hike the Coast Trail during the rainy season.
The trail begins at the north end of the beach where sand gives way to rocks, then switchbacks gently up a grassy slope to the top of Cape Ferrelo. From here you enjoy unobstructed views south along the jagged coastline. This lack of obstruction also means a clear view of the highway from most points along the trail. At the top of the bluff, look for the flat, metal USGS markers which identify this as an official landmark. There is a knoll extending into the ocean which looks like an interesting place to explore, but to reach it one would have to go down a very steep slope through thigh deep grass and brush, and I haven't ever had the courage to commit myself to the return journey. Then the trail turns inland and runs along the north edge of the bluff. The main trail continues to the Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint, offering tantalizing views of what appears to be a less accessible beach below.
This is a car accessible area with no facilities. Oregon Coast Trail leaves the parking lot south to Lone Ranch Beach via the bluff at the tip of Cape Ferrelo, and north through thick woods to House Rock Viewpoint. Also, this area offers hiking access to a relatively quiet beach which we will discuss next.
Hike: Cape Ferrelo to the Beach
The trail descends gently from the parking area to a junction at a trail post. The left branch gradually disappears on its way down a grassy, slumping slope. If you decide to take this route down, be prepared for a moderate hike. The distances here are deceptive. Aim directly down the ridge to a rocky outcrop, basically the terminus of Cape Ferrelo. This is a good one to try climbing; the view and solitude once you reach the top are very enjoyable. I wished I could have used ropes on the way down, however. It was very awkward.
The view from up top includes an enticing beach which is probably not often visited, simply because it is so well guarded by natural obstacles. To reach it along the shore requires picking your way across two fields of large boulders where it would be easy to turn an ankle, or worse. In addition, on the sunny day I was there, crabs were skittering all over the place. Though I suppose they pose no real danger to humans, they made me jumpy. I tend to be a bit on the nervous site though, and I had gotten somewhat used to dealing with crabs by the time I reached the beach. At the moment, in March, it features a lively little brook, and lots of interesting driftwood. I wished I had brought my camera since I doubt I'll be back to that beach again for some time, and next time I am here, no doubt it will have changed. Beaches around here change significantly over the course of a single year.
For the trip back, instead of revisiting the dreaded crabs, I scrambled up a sandy ravine. It was exhausting. I imagine that when the sand dries out, it will be even more difficult to get up... though probably easy to get down. Foot prints are very apparent and you should have to trouble finding the way up to the coast trail. When you get to the trail, turn left. About 20 minutes is required for the return to Cape Ferrelo Viewpoint.
Hike: Cape Ferrelo To House Rock Viewpoint
It only takes about ten minutes to traverse this section. Unfortunately, the main trail begins to the right of the post and leads into a forest from which it never really emerges until reaching its conclusion. It does cross a few pretty little babbling brooks, and switchbacks its way through some very nice Sitka Spruce stands. You will never get much view of the ocean, however.
The House Rock wayside features a memorial to park founder and Oregon State Senator Samuel Boardman. A engraved bronze plate on the monument details Boardman's role in the acquisition of lands for the State Parks. South from here the trail snakes into the woods for a short down and up jaunt to Cape Ferrelo. North, it drops steeply down to Whaleshead Beach, offering awe inspiring views along the way.
Hike: House Rock Viewpoint to Whaleshead Beach
This segment is steep, running relentlessly downhill from south to north on its way to a long, popular beach. The trail begins in an unnervingly gloomy forest. It then opens up somewhat before dropping again beneath the hedge, into a tunnel reminiscent English garden's maze. You may have to duck under leafy branches. After almost touching Highway 101, the trail goes through a series of steep switchbacks, crosses a grassy knob overlooking the sea, and then descends rapidly through a few muddy ravines on the way to the beach. It looks as though the trail could slip off the mountainside at any time. A few spots are so eroded that you are liable to fall through the trail to water running beneath.
Note - There has been a rerouting of the lower section of this trail to provide easier access to Whaleshead Beach. I have not confirmed this myself, but my source is reliable. I assume we no longer need to worry about frequent trail washout at the terminus of Bowman Creek. This new trail probably passes close to a striking waterfall. I would appreciate getting confirmation of this by actual hikers.
Whaleshead Beach
Whaleshead Trail Viewpoint is a good place to stop the car for a quick snapshot, but the trail down to the beach from here is steep and gravely. Better access can be found via the Whaleshead Beach road a half mile further north in a draw across from the Whaleshead Resort (RV camping and cabins available). There are no facilities here. Best to just stop for a quick look, then continue on ahead. Through hikers: There's nothing at this overlook that you haven't already seen from points further south, so I wouldn't recommend your taking the time to scramble up to this viewpoint unless you are a fitness fanatic.
The beach is lovely delta of sand bisected by a creek often broad enough to make for wet sneakers. Thankfully, the State Parks thought to build a bridge. Right at the base of Whaleshead, where the creek meets the sea, there is a nice area of deep, quiet water which looks like it would afford a pleasant swim on a hot day. Another nice feature along this beach is a small cavern which is somewhat fun to explore. Young children could spend hours playing around here. Vault toilets and picnic tables are available at the lower parking area.
A short, disinteresting trail segment roughly parallels the access road to Highway 101. Rarely used, it offers a more "hikerly" alternative to the road. Frankly I am not sure why it is useful. Maybe you can offer some suggestions?
Hike: Whaleshead Bluff
Turn off 101 and immediately look for an undeveloped trail head on the right. Park there if your vehicle can negotiate the rutted terrain. The trail switchbacks moderately through a thick forest of Sitka Spruce (picea sitchensis). It then breaks out into the light just below a grassy knoll. Continue out onto this point of land to reach an amazing overlook of the ocean and the beach 300 feet below. I've never met another soul on the trail. You would probably enjoy total solitude from an aerie. Then you may either return to the trailhead, or continue on to explore the scenic north side of Whaleshead.
This begins from the top of Whaleshead Bluff (as I call it) and immediately switchbacks down three times very steeply. The trail then goes back up again, then down. There are several wonderful points from which to view a turbulent cove far below. In addition, there are a few precipitous points (tread with care) and thick patches of LUSH poison oak. As of late May the poison oak is encroaching on the trail, making it occasionally difficult to avoid touching. When you hear a trickle of water you know you are close to the Highway. When you appear on the gravel median just inside of the guardrail, look south and you will see that the entrance to Whaleshead Park is only about four minutes away. Thus, the Whaleshead section can be made into a loop hike.
Hike: Whaleshead Bluff to Indian Sands
If you intend to continue to Indian Sands (highly recommended and not very difficult from here), walk north along the median approximately 100 meters to a trail post where we once again departs into the woods. The poison oak isn't as bad here as it was on Whaleshead, and the geography is gentler making for an easy stroll through the woods. Right before reaching Indian Sands we cross through some very thick understory (look above and barely see the sky), then endure a brief steep up and down. Then we round the bend and see a sandy area. The second trail post after this point marks the entrance of the access trail from Indian Sands Trail Viewpoint on Highway 101 a short distance above.
When I first went to Indian Sands, I felt I had entered another world characterized by unusual juxtapositions of shade and texture. Here is where Utah meets the Pacific. Huge, charcoal black rocks intervene between the churning sea and multi-colored cliffs of crumbling sandstone. The dunes which snake between the cliffs range in shade from taupe to salmon. There is no more unique spot in the entire park. 
Be careful, though. There are some very sudden drop-offs mere inches from the established trails. A slip could result in splashdown 20 to 30 meters below, with the Coast Guard too far away to do much good.
Another thing to bear in mind; when the wind blows, it can turn ugly. A bandana wrapped around the face can be a blessing in the midst of a zephyr. Wind-driven sand can really tear into you, stinging exposed skin and, getting into the eyes and lungs.
To reach Indian Sands most expeditiously from Highway 101 you should use Indian Sands Trail Viewpoint. The trail follows the steep, direct course of an old cat track from the parking area,then passes under some tree branches to join the Coast Trail near the center point of the Indian Sands area proper. Continue north along the trail to Thomas Creek Bridge, the highest in Oregon.
Hike: Indian Sands to Thomas Creek Bridge
The trail goes over a hump to exit the north end of the Indian Sands section, then offers spectacular views down on its way down into a cove. Then it enters another tunnel of shrubbery, and rises steeply up a ravine. Finally it weaves through a spruce wood until a series of switchbacks lead up the canyon of Thomas Creek. Passing photographers have worn grove in the earth along the canyon's edge, but only those willing to risk life and limb get a clear shot of the famous bridge from here. Fortunately, better and far more accessible viewpoints can be found at the top.
At 345 feet this is the highest bridge in Oregon. A herd of goats can often be seen sunning themselves on the slopes beneath it. The viewpoint from which I took this photo can be reached from the parking area south of the bridge. It's the most easily accessible place for a snapshot of this landmark, though there are some other, more challenging viewpoints further down the canyon. Go south from here to investigate.The bridge wiggles perceptibly when cars go past. Sometimes when big rigs pass, the wind they generate seems capable of blowing a person right off the edge, so take care.
Hike: Thomas Creek Bridge to China Creek Beach
From Thomas Creek Bridge, the trail takes off to the left (oceanward), and switchbacks through alder woods to meadow. There is a rocky knob here where I first saw a herd of feral goats, apparently residents of these rocky cliffs for decades. The views of the bridge from there are great. From here the trail turns uphill and inland up a ravine, then turns left to once again enter a characteristically dark tunnel of young spruce before coming out on Highway 101 at North Island Trail Viewpoint.
A delightful beach below China Creek is your reward if you follow this trail. The trail is moderate in difficulty but the hike is well worth it. The trail leaves 101 at North Island Viewpoint and goes through wooded areas before joining the downhill trail. The uphill branch reaches Highway 101 in short order. The right fork switchbacks through dense thickets with a few view "windows" before breaking out into the open. Then it's an easy trek to the beach down the grassy ravine. The beach is wide and often dry above the waves. Several nice picnic areas can be found.
Hike: China Creek Beach to Spruce Creek Pullout
Once you're on the beach, walk north until you reach a rocky headland with a small beach beyond. Here is the critical spot. You have to get around the point to reach a trail which follows Spruce Creek up to Highway 101. Tides lower than 5 feet should allow safe, dry passage. In general, it's a good idea to carry a tide table with you when when you hike along the coast. You can pick one up for free at various establishments in Brookings.
Beyond this occasional obstacle, a spruce post marks the spot where the trail begins its ascent up the ravine of Spruce Creek. Along this path, you will encounter an interesting deep spring in the side of the hill, and ford the rivulet at several points.
The pullout on Highway 101 at the top of the trail makes a good starting point for a loop hike: Head south down Spruce Creek, walk along the beach about a miles, then return to 101 up China Creek's drainage. The final segment of the loop does entail walking a short distance north on the highway back to the pullout.
The option of hiking along the road has been a lifesaver on many a day when I had not enough energy to return via the trail. The highway generally gets you between waysides in a quarter the distance, and with far less up and down.
Natural Bridge Viewpoint
This is one of the better official viewpoints in the park. From the broad, paved parking area, walk south along the trail to an overlook offering somewhat distant view of a very pretty arch and a punchbowl beneath it. No facilities available here. A memorial to Dr. Sam Dicken, who first proposed the Oregon Coast Trail, is located at the north end of the grassy area by the parking lot. Just below the Natural Bridge viewing platform, a steep primitive trail leads west to a bench with spectacular ocean views.
Hike: Natural Bridge Viewpoint to Thunder Rock Cove
The trail leads uphill and west from the parking lot, then shortly forks left and ascends a surprisingly high, forested knoll with an okay view. The right fork continues through a lovely Sitka spruce grove a long an abandoned roadbed. As you come to a straightaway, look closely on the left for a faint trace, then follow it through encroaching brush. Eventually you find yourself on a knife edged ridge angling toward the ocean. One slip on the wet clay could provide a quick exit from this world, so this is not a place for the uncoordinated. Finally, work your way through a thicket and emerge on a high grassy area surrounded by ocean on three sides. Relatively flat and open, you may want to spend a few minutes here, perhaps writing in your journal as I did, but check for deer sign before sitting. This place is aptly referred to as Deer Point on the maps. Continuing, the main trail curves around a small hillock to the right and emerges at Thunder Rock Cove.
Once again we come to a pullout with no facilities. Northward, the trail leads into an area of tremendous beauty featuring "Secret Beach". To the south it rounds a knoll to reach Natural Bridges Viewpoint. On the way it passes a faint side trail which leads to the end of a narrow spit of land, Deer Point.
Hike: Thunder Rock Cove to Miner Creek - 25 minutes (.75 mile)
From the parking area, the trail switchbacks down through lush forest to an almost indescribably beautiful viewpoint. Stand as close as you want to the edge. You won't be able to see the cliff falling away beneath you, which brings a disconcerting suspicion that you are on an overhanging rock. From here the view extends south to the promontory of Indian Sands, and north to Mack Arch.
Continuing along, the main trail snakes through the woods, switchbacks up almost to the highway, then back down again. On the way it crosses Wridge Creek, which runs through a tunnel under the trail and down a concrete sluice, mentioned further in the next section. Then comes a small plank bridge which is for some reason slanted and can become quite slippery when wet. Finally, cross Miner Creek on a footbridge, and head towards the beach.
Miner Creek Beach
A short, slippery rock climb leads you to a beach that looks as untouched as in Oregon's prehistory. The falls of Miner Creek which ends in a pool on the beach, is one of the prettiest around though not particularly high. High tide probably hides this beach altogether, which might partly explain why it is known as "Secret Beach".
If you make it down the rock, walk south between two other rocks to the beach drained by Wridge Creek. Be aware of rising tides so as not to get trapped on the Wridge Creek side. Then take few minutes to explore the corridor-like canyon. Photographers: save your film for this spot. I first found my way here on a day of gloriously beautiful day right after a rain, and was very upset that I had used all my film on lesser points further north along the trail.
Without a doubt, this beach is the Hope Diamond among Boardman's treasures. From here the coast trail continues north to Spruce Island Viewpoint. Alternately, a "cat track" returns directly up the slope to a small pullout on Highway 101, which also provides the most direct access to this place.
Switchback from the beach up to 101, then back down again to a scenic bench above the ocean. There are numerous spots that inspire photography, as well as a few grassy places along the bench that would make pleasant picnic grounds. Then the trail turns uphill and passes through a dense forest of young spruce to a ridge, then angles moderately down a wooded slope to Highway 101 at Spruce Island Viewpoint. A narrow pullout with Coast Trail access north and south, and no facilities. Head north for the nearest restrooms.
| More Miner Creek pictures taken October 1998. |
|
|
Hike: Spruce Island Viewpoint to Arch Rock Point - 8 minutes (.5 mile)
As good a view of the ocean as you can expect from a heavily forested cliff. Trail passes some of the largest specimens of Sitka spruce in the park. Be careful along an eroded section of the trail near a creek. It narrows to just a few inches wide at one point, with about an 8 foot drop to the creek bed. Thankfully, there is a small tree to hold onto.
Arch Rock Point: This, the only developed area in a largely primitive reach, features an asphalt loop which circles the point, several picnic tables, trash bins, and vault toilets that are as unscented as could be hoped. It would be nice if there was running water, but no luck. Hope you're water bottle still has something in it by the time you get here, intrepid hiker. The views from here are probably the best you can find at any of the established waysides.
Hike: Arch Rock Point to Arch Rock Viewpoint - 5 minutes
This segment leaves the westernmost portion of the paved loop and angles north into the woods. It then negotiates a series of rollings ups and downs, offering nary a view of the ocean. Near the end, a four meter section of trail has washed down a ravine. The first few steps are very exposed and the traction tenuous, so only the most nimble should attempt a crossing. Others should hike along Highway 101 for this short stretch.
That said, I have made it over the difficult spot twice, but neither time was I certain that I wouldn't slip and end up with no less injury than bruises and abrasions. Considering that the State Parks are strapped for money, may be one of these days I'll head out there myself with a shovel and fix it up like a good citizen.
Arch Rock Viewpoint
For all intents and purposes, Arch Rock Viewpoint is the park's northernmost attraction. The Coast Trail, however, does continue north from here. Maybe only a fanatic or someone creating a web page about trails on the Oregon Coast would try to hike any further, but it goes on, and on, and on, obviously more frequented by deer than men. You wonder why anyone went to the trouble of building a trail which no one apparently ever uses. Maybe this trail is the artifact of an earlier age. Maybe Indians followed it in their journeys up and down the coast.
There are no facilities here; just a pullout, and a nice view of Arch Rock. It may be possible to get down to the beach pictured here, but it wouldn't be easy. I haven't tried it.
Arch Rock Viewpoint to North Park Border and Beyond
This segment presents some pretty uncivilized territory, a perfect place to escape the crowds. Beware of poison oak, however. Follow Highway 101 for ¼ mile, then cross a pullout and find the trail. It traverses hummocky ground toward two small, spruce covered outcroppings, then switchbacks to a long abandoned road carpeted with clover. This road descends gently across a grassy slope, then joins a more recent gravel road just a few hundred feet from a rocky beach. Continue north, passing a weathered post about three meters high, then jumping a small stream. Follow the north bank of this stream inland until a clear trail leads to the north through a meadow.
The trail leads gradually uphill toward a short cliff overlooking the sea, then jog down to a marshy creek. In this area you have the option of exploring an intimate little beach seemingly cut off from civilization. It is just you and the churning surf, and maybe Robinson Crusoe! In late March of '97 I found the frame of a shelter built of curved sticks here, and a wide plank which would have made a serviceable table or bench. It didn't look like whoever used these implements had been around recently, though.
On the bog's north bank the trail turns inland and crosses a meadow. It then continues past a water pipe, into the woods at the top, and to another pullout on Highway 101. From here, thanks to the hard work of trail volunteers over the past several years, you can reportedly continue north. I do not know exactly how far the trail extends, but here ends Boardman State Park.
