lanting A Tree a step-by-step guide. Introduction Planting Roses, Planting Dig in for the Garden Season, Street Tree Planting Procedures

Planting A Tree a step-by-step guide

The most common mistake when planting a tree is a digging hole, which is both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.

As a general rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.
When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottomof a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the centre bottom of the hole slightly higher than the susrrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.

Balled and burlapped (B & B) trees, although best planted as soon as possible, can be stored for some time after purchase as long as the ball is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady area. B & B trees should always be lifted by the ball, never by the trunk. The burlap surrounding the ball of earth and roots should either be cut away completely (mandatory, in the case of synthetic or plastic burlap) or at least pulled back from the top third of the ball (in the case of natural burlap). Any string or twine should also be removed. Backfill soil (combinations of peat moss, composted manure, topsoil, etc.) is then placed in the hole surrounding the tree just to the height of the ball or slightly lower to allow for some settling. Be careful not to compress the back fill soil as this may prevent water from reaching the roots and the roots from expanding beyond the ball.

Planting Container Trees.

Container trees (though subject to greater heat and drying conditions than B and B) can also be stored for a brief period of time after purchase as long as the soil in the container is kept moist and the tree stored in a shady spot. The procedure for planting container trees is similar to that for B & B trees. In the case of metal or plastic containers, remove the container completely. In the case of fibre containers, tear the sides away.

Once carefully removed from the container, check the roots. If they are tightly compressed or ‘potbound’, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting. In the case of extremely woody compacted roots, it may be necessary to use a spade to open up the bottom half of the root system. The root system is then pulled apart or ‘butterflied’ prior to planting. Loosening the root structure in this way is extremely important in the case of container plants. Failure to do so may result in the roots ‘girdling’ and killing the tree. At the very least, the roots will have difficulty expanding beyond the dimensions of the original container. To further assist this, lightly break up even the soil outside the planting zone. This allows roots that quickly move out of the planting zone to be more resilient as they anchor into existing surrounding soil conditions.

Once the tree is seated in the hole, the original soil is then back-filled into the hole to the soil level of the container. Again, remember not to overly compress the back-filled soil especially by tramping it with your feet. Compress gently using your hands instead.

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Introduction

Well managed tree planting projects start with appropriate site analysis, customer expectations, site design, and tree selection. Site conditions and after care capabilities should dictate maximum tree size at planting, root ball characteristics, appropriate tree production method, and tree structure. Tree selection includes choosing the appropriate species or cultivar for the planting site based on site analysis. Then, suitable nursery stock must be chosen based on site conditions and intended after care. This web site guides you through all these steps. It is updated regularly.

The nursery stock must be inspected carefully to pick the best quality tree. Trees with poor quality may be inexpensive in some cases but might perform poorly in the landscape. Tree quality can be assured by planning the transportation to the landscape site and by handling the tree carefully. Once at the landscape site, appropriate planting practices will help the tree get off to a good start. Many trees are planted too deeply so they perform poorly following planting. Management of the landscape site in the early years following planting will dramatically affect the establishment rate and ultimate success of the planting. Click here for a checklist for designing a tree planting program.

Exerpt from the preface:

The phrase Plant the right tree in the right place has been around for a long time. The process of putting this seemingly simple idea into practice may not be as well understood as we would like. Only a few crude tools have been developed to help select and plant proper trees in urban and suburban landscapes. Few, if any, present the topic in a detailed, complete package. The goal of this book is to provide this detail and to guide the reader through the process of evaluating a planting site, designing the site to fit trees, choosing trees that are best suited for the site, and planting and managing them after installation..

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Planting Roses

Growing beautiful roses begins with proper siting and proper planting techniques. The following information describes the first steps in growing healthy and attractive roses.

Planting Site
Roses establish quickly and are more resistant to pests and diseases when planted in an ideal location. Roses require at least six hours of direct sunlight for optimal flowering and growth, though full sun is preferable. An eastern exposure, which receives morning sun, is ideal for roses. Choose a planting location that is not shaded by buildings or trees to maximize the amount of sunshine the plants receive. Avoid planting roses near trees and shrubs which will compete for moisture and nutrients. Make sure the site is open to allow for air movement. Also consider water drainage to or from the planting site. Roses grow best in well-drained soil and decline with standing water around their root system.

Planting Time
Roses can be planted from early spring into early fall. Earlier planting is normally preferred to late planting. Spring or early summer planting allows plenty of time for good root establishment before winter, whereas planting after mid-summer may not. Other advantages of spring planting are that selection of cultivars and availability of quality plants are usually better than later in the season.

Planting time varies based on how plants are packaged. Bare root roses should be planted in early to mid-spring before the new shoots start to develop. Typically, this will be late March into early April unless soils remain wet. Potted roses can be planted anytime from spring to early fall. Spring planting should be done after danger of killing frost, usually late April to mid-May in Ohio.

Plant Selection
Roses are available as bare-root plants or potted. Bare-root plants are usually less expensive than potted plants, but potted plants have a greater survival rate than bare-root plants. Both are graded to insure quality, with Grade 1 indicating the highest quality.

Plant Preparation
Bare-root plants and potted plants require special handling prior to planting. Plant bare root roses as soon as possible after purchasing or receiving them through the mail. Unwrap plants from the packaging and soak the root system in a bucket of water for about an hour prior to planting. If planting must be delayed for a few days, keep the plants moist and in a cool, dark location, or place them into a temporary soil trench in a shaded location. Prune out any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems before

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Employ Companion Planting for Organic Landscaping.

Long before companion planting became a popular term with landscapers, the Iroquois were practicing a version of companion planting. The people whom Americans remember at Thanksgiving for having shared food with the Pilgrims were more than just hunters. After all, what would Thanksgiving dinner be without a side dish of that classic Iroquois food, squash?

Classic Companion Planting

Corn, pole beans and squash were planted together in their gardens, each plant providing some benefit to at least one of the other two -- by definition, companion planting. The corn's companion-planting contribution came from its height: it provided a living trellis for the pole beans, which love to climb. In return the beans, members of the legume family, are nitrogen-fixers beneficial to the whole garden.

Leguminous cover crops are often planted to fix nitrogen into the soil, but the beans served a purpose beyond companion planting, since they were, of course, eaten as well.

The most diverse contribution in this instance of companion planting came from the squash. The squash vines shaded the ground beneath the corn and beans, thereby regulating the soil temperature and conserving soil moisture. In this function their companion-planting contribution was, in essence, as a living mulch. Not only that but, like conventional mulch, the squash vines suppressed weeds.

And the squash delivered yet another companion-planting benefit to its neighbors -- one that might not come to mind quite as readily. Namely, the squash vines discouraged mammal pests from entering the garden. Raccoons for instance, those clever masked bandits who love to pilfer corn, dislike having to trudge through squash vines to get to their loot. Why? Well, in addition to forming a living barrier, squash vines and their leaf stems are studded with small, prickly spines that are annoying to have to brush up against. Yes, companion planting can even play a role in pest control!

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Planting Dig in for the Garden Season

Garden soil can be plowed, tilled or spaded in the spring or fall. Don't work the garden when the soil is too wet. One test is to squeeze a handful of soil. It should not be sticky and should form a ball that will crumble easily.

Fertilizer may be applied before plowing. Turn over the ground to a depth of about 6 to 8 inches. If added after plowing, work in the fertilizer by raking it into the soil to a 2- to 4-inch depth. Rake the soil just before planting to prevent the weeds from coming up before the vegetables.

Success Starts with Planting
The success of your garden depends on three factors. Vegetables must be planted at the right time, at the right depth and at the correct distance apart (see chart).

The planting time depends on the hardiness of the vegetables and the climate in your area. Some vegetables can withstand frost, others prefer warm weather.

When purchasing seeds, be sure to buy disease-free seeds. Some vegetables do better if transplants instead of seeds are planted in the garden. Transplants are young plants grown from seeds started indoors or bought from a store.

How to Plant
Plant in straight rows. This makes it easier to tell the weeds from the vegetables. Also cultivation and harvesting are more convenient. Drive two stakes into the ground at each end of the garden and draw a string taut between them.

Small seeds should be planted in shallow furrows (trenches). These can be made by drawing a hoe handle along the line indicated by the string. For larger seeds and deeper furrows use the corner of the hoe blade.

Seeds may be planted by the hilling or the drilling method. For the hilling method several seeds are placed in one spot at definite intervals in a row. Sweet corn, squash, melons and cucumbers can be planted in this way. Most seeds are sown by the drilling method. Seeds are spaced evenly down the row.

After planting, cover by firming the soil around the seeds. Plants should be thinned before they are over 2 inches tall. Remove the weakest plants.

Begin with the Best Plants
When buying transplants, avoid tall, spindly plants. Short, stocky transplants are preferable. About a week before planting begin setting transplants outside each day for a few hours. This will get plants adjusted to the outdoors.

Vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, sweet potato and tomato are grown best from transplants.

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