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XIII
FROM CANTERBURY TO RAMSGATE ON THE GREAT STOUR.
OUR travels hitherto have been mainly the larger navigable canals and rivers, but we find there are still some smaller, yet important, waterways, that are well worth doing. Such were the Avon (Warwickshire), the Rother, Arun, and the Great Stour, the last-named being now under notice in this article. There are a number of rivers of this name in England, but this one rejoices in the higher-sounding appellation of the "Great Stour." The river has an ancient record, as we read that an Act was passed in 1514 placing the River Stour navigation under the care of the town of Canterbury. It flows from the town of Ashford - up to which place it was at one time navigable from there - some 38 miles down to Pegwell Bay, near to Ramsgate. We found that it would be impossible for our class of boat - of the Thames skiff type - to be used in these higher reaches, with the many shallows and mill portages; besides, the water is preserved in many places for fishing purposes, so that we decided to make Canterbury or Fordwich our starting point. We reached the former, a fine old type of city, on a Saturday afternoon, and on going through the town we were impressed by the surroundings. Everything of an old-world character appeals to the tourist, so we made the most of the little time at our disposal in looking round and taking every thing in.
The cathedral is, of course, the great attraction, an imposing edifice being one of the most ancient in England, and fuller, perhaps, of historical association than any other in the country. There are examples, too, of many different types of architecture to be found - these all proving of interest even to the uninitiated. Some of the stones in the crypt go back to the year A.D. 500. Although late in entering the building, we were fortunate to come across the chief verger, who turned out to be of a most obliging disposition, and he put himself particularly about, although after official hours, to go over the principal sights with us.
On making enquiry casually we found the good folks of the town knew all about the place, but as to the waterway - the object of our excursion - they had a very vague idea concerning its existence. After some difficulty, we found our way to the water by going down a side street, and here we found a boat letter, who owned a miscellaneous collection of some dozen craft, one of which we procured.
The Stour at this point presents no particular attractions, and is, moreover, rather narrow, but it has comparatively clear water, with a considerable current and with depth enough to float small craft. It winds about the town in a more or less circuitous manner. All the way along the course one passes old-world buildings on either side; in some cases the houses are in bridge form over the water, giving it a typical Venetian aspect. All this tends to picturesqueness, particularly where the river passes under an arch where there are the remains of an old monastery. This latter attracts the visitor, and many an artist has depicted the scene. After a time we found our progress barred by a mill; we could not continue our way as we had anticipated, so retraced our course. After landing, we directed our steps to Fordwich by Sturry, some 2½ miles on by road, calling at the Bell Hotel en route for information, when we were told that Queen Victoria once stayed the night at this old hostelry, in the early days of her reign.
At dusk we reached Fordwich, where we had procured all the room available at the quaint little inn, the Fordwich Arms, where the landlord did all he could to make us comfortable. Fordwich in bygone days, described as the Port of Canterbury, is a place of great antiquity, but with now only some 150 inhabitants. However, it can boast of a town hall some 800 years old, reported to be the oldest in England. The church also is of considerable age, and said to be the second oldest church in the country. There is a ducking-stool, now preserved in the town hall, which was much used in ancient days for refractory women, and is viewed with awe by the fair sex of the present generation.
Under exceptionally fine conditions, after a more or less unbroken spell of bad weather, we now proceed to the object of our journey - to explore the Great Stour from this, its navigable source. For various reasons, we did not bring a motor boat, but we were pleased to see this mode of propulsion had made its appearance, as we found a small motor boat here - the only one we could trace on the Stour, although there were others, we were told. There were, however, two or three steam launches in commission.
We had chartered a skiff from the hotel-keeper, but, as it fortunately happened, the owner of a little steam launch, who keeps his craft here, was going down stream some 14 miles, and he kindly invited our party to come aboard, which invitation we gladly availed ourselves of, the skiff being towed astern. The river is fairly wide and has a good volume of tidal water, but it never assumes a breadth worth mentioning till Sandwich is reached. The effect of the tide is felt for some 15 miles up stream, and it is reckoned to give about nine hours ebb and three hours flood. The condition of the river is good, and the Commissioners do their best to keep the route as clear as possible by cutting down the weeds.
We proceeded on our journey down stream, and with the country looking its best, one could not have done the trip under more favourable conditions. There were glimpses of pretty scenery here and there showing up in the perspective worthy of note, but, at the same time, it is lost to a great extent, as the banks rise some 10ft, or 15ft. above the water level, rather obscuring the views. Still, we enjoyed all that was to be seen. On our way we passed a lavender farm, the crop on which was just on the point of being harvested, and we learned that this was a flourishing industry at one time, but had declined very much in recent years.
We passed such places or landmarks as Grove Ferry, five miles down from our start, where there is a much-frequented hotel on the riverside. Then we came to Sarre, whence a cutting or channel runs down to the sea to the well-known Reculvers on the coast of Kent, but this is totally in disuse now. A little lower down the Little Stour joins the main river, but, from all accounts, is not navigable. We then passed under a railway bridge, and here found moored three large sailing barges, laden with stone, blocking up the fair way, leaving little or no room for us to pass by. We, however, made an attempt, but unsuccessfully, as the heavy mooring rope of one of the craft got jammed underneath the launch's rudder. This delayed us about twenty minutes, and, although we had every assistance from the bargemen, they had eventually to cut the hawser (some inches in diameter), thereby releasing us, and away we started again.
Stonar Cut, 14 miles from the start, was our stopping place and the termination of the journey by launch. Here we changed over to our skiff, leaving our friends on "Irene " - that being her name - with many thanks for bringing us so far. As a matter of fact, had we not had this assistance, we would not have been able to undertake, in the time, the through journey we mapped out. At this point (Stonar) the river takes a peculiarly circuitous course, in so far as the boat could have been carried over a neck of land with a portage of some 300 yards, and thereby saving a distance of about 5½ miles, but we were desirous of navigating the whole round. The Cut, so called, was at one time used for vessels passing through, but it is only utilized for sluice purposes now.
Proceeding under our own power, viz., by towage, in this instance, close by the bank, so as to overcome the strong tide, we reached the ruins of Richborough, an old Roman fortress, and under the shadow of the castle we partook of our luncheon. The ruins of the castle and fortifications are of the greatest antiquity, and it is strange to think that in the early times the sea came right up to this now inland place. One can hardly comprehend this, but historical tradition has it so. The Roman wall, still standing, is about 24ft. high, and is of considerable interest to antiquaries.
A little farther on we came to Sandwich, one of the Cinque Ports, for in the 11th century it was one of the most important harbours of the south coast line, though one's imagination has to travel a long way back to appreciate this fact. At the bridge we landed to inspect this old town, so redolent with historical associations. There is a considerable amount of trading done there now with fairly large barges. We saw about half-a-dozen of these moored in the roads or tidal way. After "looping the loop," as we might describe our circular tour round, we came back to Stonar Cut bottom entrance, and here we landed at the Red Lion for tea. At this point a powerful steam tug, owned by the river authorities, is moored at a jetty for the towing of craft to and from Sandwich and other destinations.
Apart from our luck in the weather, we had the good fortune to fit in exactly with the tidal arrangements so as to get the full benefit of the ebb. Starting from here, we sculled down past some uninteresting banks of sand, which are exposed at low water, and, following the course of the Stour, marked off with a row of perches, we reached the open sea.
In such a frail craft as we had, it is only on rare occasions that this latter part of the journey can be undertaken. It is hazardous, as the conditions are only favourable once in a way. Even on the day following our experience, with a slight breeze which had then sprung up, we could not have done it. However, everything being favourable, we satisfactorily accomplished the journey. Our original intention was to make for Pegwell Bay, but with the tide running out it could not be negotiated. While nearing the end of the staked-out course, we ventured to strike out a short cut, but we had not got very far when we found ourselves aground. This was much to our surprise, as there was no indication whatever of any shallow or sandbank; in fact, nothing but the broad expanse of water as far as the eye could reach. After considerable difficulty, as the tide was ebbing, we got the boat afloat again, and retraced our route to the main channel, going again right out to sea to the outward beacon. Thereafter we took a direct course for Ramsgate Harbour. The moral of all this is to keep the course as mapped out, in unknown waters.
Several of the boatmen at Ramsgate had never heard, in their recollection, of boats coming all the way from Fordwich to Ramsgate, so we considered we had modestly accomplished something not, at least, done every day. Thus we completed our somewhat adventurous voyage safe and sound, having had a delightful trip. Ramsgate was full of trippers, and after arranging to send our craft back by rail to Fordwich, we made for the South-Eastern Railway station, whence we travelled to Dover.
On the following and last day, we discovered a friend at the hotel, who possessed a motor, and we availed ourselves of his kindness to do by the "overland route" that portion of Kent which we had chiefly come through by water. We motored in all some 45 miles, lunching at Margate, passing through Deal and Sandwich en route, thence retracing our way back to Dover, where we caught the steamer back to town.
The distance covered in all by water was about 25 miles, with no locks on the route.
Pictures related to this cruise
Ducking Stool for Refractory Women, at Fordwich, the Great Stour (Kent)
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