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Help/Frequently Asked Questions

• Getting Started
• Diamond Shapes
• The Four C's
• The Importance of Cut
• Words about Color
• Inclusions: What's OK, What's Not
• Selecting a Stone/Four C's and Cost
• Settings
• How to Not Get Ripped Off
• Metals
• Colored Gemstones
  
  Section 1: Getting Started
  Q. What is the difference between an engagement ring and a wedding band?
  
  A. The engagement ring is traditionally given by a man to a women to symbolize the intent for marriage. It is usually presented when the man proposes to the woman and is worn throughout the engagement.
  
  Traditionally the engagement ring has a single diamond in it. This is called the diamond solitaire. It is not uncommon to see people use a variety of rings as symbols of their engagement. This FAQ deals solely with the purchase of diamonds.
  
  Finally, the wedding band is traditionally a gold band with no seams. This continuity is supposed to symbolize the eternal bond of marriage. These are presented to one and other at the wedding ceremony.
  
  Q. Why a diamond?
  
  A. The diamond being the hardest substance on earth was valued as early as the 15th century. The first diamond engagement ring was given in 1477 by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy.
  
  The wedding took place 24 hours later. In these times, diamonds were uncut, so they were valued as a symbol of strength and protection, not beauty. This is where the tradition began.
  
  Q. Why is the wedding ring worn on the 4th finger?
  
  A. There are two speculated reasons. The rings were actually worn on the thumb in the 17th century, but the 4th finger was used during the ceremony.
  
  Some feel that during a Christian wedding, the priest arrives at the 4th finger after touching three fingers on the left hand "In the Name of the Father...Son...and Holy Ghost...". Others believe the Egyptian myth that the ring finger follows the "vena amoris" or vein of love...which supposedly runs directly to the heart.
  
  Q. How do I intelligently shop for diamonds?
  
  A. Arm yourself with knowledge. Most stones are graded on a set of ratings set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Unfortunately, these gradings are often misrepresented by the actual sellers of the diamonds.
  
  Essentially, they can give the stones virtually any grading they want, and if the consumer is not educated s/he will not know the difference. Learn the grading scales and look at MANY stones. It is A MUST to find a jeweler that adheres to the GIA standards.
  
  Q. How do I find a reputable jeweler?
  
  A. Ask around. Find family owned shops that have been around for years. There are some stores that are members of the American Gem Society (AGS). The jewelers at these stores are required by AGS to be tested annually and must uphold certain standards.
  
  Most still grade their stones on the GIA scales (AGS does have their own) and adhere strictly to them. It will usually appear as though these stores are charging more for their stones (over mall stores for example), however you are truly getting what you pay for.
  
  Q. What is a CGA, MGA, etc...?
  
  A. There are several terms out there that are meant to indicate the level of experience of a stores jeweler...they are:
  
  Jeweler - Anybody can call themselves a jeweler
  Gemologist - This is an uncontrolled title which can be used by anyone with a desire to set up shop and sell stones.
  Graduate Gemologist (GG) - This title is awarded by the GIA to individuals who have completed a basic course in diamonds and colored stones. Once awarded, this diploma is good for life.
  Registered Jeweler - This title is awarded by the AGS to individuals who have extensive gemological knowledge and adhere to AGS's rigid ethical code. It must be renewed each year based on continuing education and ethical business practice.
  *Certified Gemologist Appraiser (CGA) - AGS title for one who is annually tested on his/her ability to appraise gems. Unlike the Registered Jeweler, A CGA has mastered sophisticated testing procedure.
  *Master Gemologist Appraiser (MGA) - Essentially gods of the gem world. Similar to a CGA, but to a higher degree. The only number in in the hundreds in the states.
  
  If you deal with either of these types, you should feel confident with their ratings and ultimately with your purchase.
  
  Q. Should I buy a loose stone or do I get a better deal buying the whole ring?
  
  A. This depends on the store. When setting a diamond, it is common (and sensible) to put any defects or "inclusions" under a prong. The problem with buying the whole ring is that the stone cannot be examined out of the setting. Most stores will not charge a setting fee if both the stone and setting are purchased there. Buy the stone loose if you can.
  
  The remainder of this page will deal with GIA terminology unless noted.
  
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  Section 2: Diamond Shapes
  Let's define some terms here:
  Facet...any of the flat "sides" of the diamond
  Table...On a brilliant cut (bc) stone...the top octagonal facet
  Girdle...The (typically )frosty white ring at the widest part
  Culet...The bottom point (actually a facet) on a bc stone
  Pavilion...The portion of the stone below the girdle
  Crown...The portion of the stone above the girdle
  Fire...The quality of the diamond that breaks reflected light into a colorful array
  Brilliance...The quality of the diamond that reflects light without changing it (sometimes called sparkle)
  Fluorescence...The characteristic of some diamonds to fluoresce certain colors under some light
  Natural...Usually found on the girdle. It is a small section that was on the side of the raw diamond. It appears as a slightly rough flat spot on the girdle
  Feather...A jewelers way of saying "crack". Appears as a white feather within the diamond
  
  Q. Is the shape the the same as the cut?
  
  A. Sort of. The real "cut" as it is referred to deals with the quality
  of the final product in terms of its desired shape (for further
  discussion of cut, see "The 4 C's"). There are essentially 4 common
  shapes of diamonds: Round (or brilliant), Emerald, Marquis and Pear.
  
  Q. What shape are engagement rings?
  
  A. Any one of the above, but the most common is the round brilliant cut. It reflects more light back through the top. Many people find this dazzling effect makes the ring more attractive. Because of the facets or sides, inclusions (defects) are tougher to see. Some people prefer the pear or marquis. The emerald cut is less common in the <1 carat size. The value of the stone is affected in some cases by shape. The shapes other than round are called FANCY. The effect on price is summarized below:
  
  

  Carat Weight (see next section)	Fancy Shapes	Round Brilliant
  0.00-0.14	more $$$	less $$$
  0.15-0.29	similar	similar
  0.30 and above	less $$$	more $$$

  
  Q. Why do they seem to follow this pattern?
  
  A. Small rounds are more common, easier to make and sell more quickly than fancies. For larger stones, rounds are in higher demand and the supply is limited. The only exception is the marquis in the larger sizes, which is comparable to or more than the round brilliant.
  
  Q. OK, I see all of the terminology...now what is good and what is bad?
  
  A. The first six terms just describe the geometry of the diamond. Fire and sparkle are both qualities that vary from stone to stone and are affected by the proportions of the diamond. Unfortunately, altering proportions to increase one will likely decrease the other. Look for a good balance of fire and sparkle. Fluorescence occurs naturally and synthetically. It is not common, so jewelers will try to command a higher price. In general it does not change the value of the stone unless it is severe and it *decreases* the value. Severely fluorescent stones often have an oily appearance in sunlight. Naturals if not severe are not bad. Small feathers are common. Any crack that extends more than 1/3 of the way through the stone may cause structural problems.
  
  Q. What shape is best?
  
  A. That depends on the following:
  Personal preference
  Desired brilliance - Round brilliant has the most
  Weight - Fancies look more elegant in large sizes
  How big you want it to look - Fancies tend to look larger Shape and size of hand - Experiment to find what is most flattering
  Color and clarity of diamond - Round brilliant hides defects and yellow tints best
  
  Q. What about rings with many small stones?
  
  A. Stones less than 0.09ct are often used in these rings. The advantages of the round brilliant cut in this case are relative to fancies
  *more brilliance
  *less expensive
  *easier to replace, match and set
  *flaws less visible
  *lower setting cost
  
  Fancies allow a wider selection of ring designs and more stylistic options. Essentially, rings with small fancies cost more than rings with small round stones.
  
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  Section 3: The Four C's
  Q. What are the "four C's" related to diamond quality?
  
  A. The four C's are the carat (weight), color, clarity and cut of the stone. They are described below
  
  1 :: Carat - This is the weight of the stone. Sometimes referred to in points. There are 100 points to a carat. A 35 point stone is .35 carat. I carat is 1/5 of a gram or 200 milligrams. "Carats" represent the weight and not the physical size of the stone as is often thought. For example, 1 carat diamond is physically larger than a 1 carat ruby since ruby is a more dense substance.
  
  2 :: Color - "Color" is usually undesirable in diamonds. Typically ratings will be alphabetical with "lower" letters being less color. AGS has a similar 0-10 scale. The corresponding gradings are listed below
  
  

  GIA	AGS
  D	0
  E	0-1
  F	1-2	Mounted stones appear colorless
  G	2
  H	3
  I	4
  J	5
  K	5-6
  L	6	Mounted stones appear increasingly tinted
  M	7
  N	7
  O	8
  P	8
  Q	8
  R-U	9	Mounted stones appear yellow
  V-Z	10

  
  D, E and F are considered "Colorless". G, H, I and J are "near colorless". K, L and M are faint yellow or "top silver" and N to Z are very light or light yellow. Z+ grades are considered "fancy yellow". Most stones you will find will be in the E-F to the J-K range.
  
  3 :: Clarity: You will typically find ratings such as this
  
  

  GIA	AGS
  FL	0	Flawless
  IF	1	Internally Flawless
  VVS1	1	Very, Very slightly included
  VVS2	2	to a less perfect degree
  VS1	3	Very slightly included
  VS2	4	" " to a less perfect degree
  SI1	5	Slightly included
  SI2	6	" " to a less perfect degree
  I1	7-8	Included
  I2	8-9	" " to a less perfect degree
  I3	9-10	Severely Included

  
  Inclusions are imperfections within the stone. Ratings from VVS1 to SI2 represent inclusions that are not visible with the naked eye. Inclusions range from bits of carbon (black spots) to slight cracks (white "feathers" withinthe stone)
  
  4 :: Cut: My discussion of cut refers to the round or "brilliant" cut. All diamonds are cut. The resultant dimensions of the cut stones vary. All dimensions are given as a percentage of the width at the girdle. This allows cuts to be numerically similar for different sized stones. There are a few accepted ideal cuts, which have all of the proportions within a few percentage points of a optimum mathematical model. This optimum model provides the most brilliant reflection of light through the top of the stone. A qualified jeweler can provide you with a more detailed explanation. There is no grading scale widely used for rating cut.
  
  Q. What is a Loupe and how do I use it?
  
  A. A loupe is the primary tool of the trade for inspecting diamonds. It is essentially a magnifying glass. Good ones have three lenses in them and magnify 10x. To properly use one, hold it about 1" in front of your strong eye with the diamond on the other side. To focus on various depths within the stone, move the stone, not the loupe. Be sure to keep your other eye open.
  
  Q. Which is the most important C?
  
  A. Really the fifth C which has gone unmentioned and that is COST! Set a budget and stick with it.
  
  Q. What has the greatest effect on price?
  
  A. In terms of value, they would rank
  • Color
  • Clarity
  • Cut/Proportion
  • Carat weight
  Q. What has the greatest effect on beauty?
  
  A. Similarly
  • Cut/Proportion
  • Color
  • Clarity
  • Carat weight
  Q. What is a Lazare diamond?
  
  A. Lazare diamonds have a serial number inscribed on the girdle to help identify them. In most cases they are near ideal cut stones.
  
  Q. What is a GIA certified stone?
  
  A. It is a stone that has been examined and documented by the GIA. It is accompanied with a GIA certificate indicating the location of inclusions, the color, clarity, carat weight and includes a note about the cut.
  
  Q. What is Clarity Enhancement?
  
  A. Clarity enhancement is a technique used to mask inclusions. A laser is used to drill small holes from a facet to an inclusion and chemicals are added to bleach out the inclusion.
  
  Q. Is clarity enhancement a recognized technique?
  
  A. The GIA will not grade clarity enhanced stones. They confirm that it is a diamond with some filler material.
  
  Q. Does the enhancement really work?
  
  A. Sometimes it helps, but other times the drill holes, which look like fishing lines from the side, detract more from the stone than other inclusions. There is no reason to attempt to enhance the quality of stones graded SI2 or lower, since those inclusions should not be visible to the naked eye.
  
  Q. Does it affect the durability of the stone?
  
  A. Yes. Because the material filling the stone is different than diamond, it will expand/contract differently with temperature. You shouldn't use ultrasonic or steam cleaning on these stones or you may find yourself with cracks.
  
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  Section 4: The Importance of Cut
  Q. Since they rarely grade cut, it must not be important, right?
  
  A. Wrong. Cut is the single most important factor in the appearance of the stone. Poorly cut stones will appear dull or have dark spots. Well cut stones will be brilliant and fiery if the stone quality is reasonable. It is important to be able to judge cut.
  
  Q. What is an ideal cut stone?
  
  A. There are 3 accepted sets of proportions which are considered ideal cut stones. They are (all proportions are given as a proportion of the girdle diameter)
  
  The Tolkowsky or Standard American Ideal Cut: Table Width: 53%
  Crown height: 16.2%
  Overall height: 59.3%
  
  The Eppler or European Cut: Table Width: 56%
  Crown height: 14.4%
  Overall height: 57.7%
  
  The Scan D.N. Table Width: 57.5%
  Crown height: 14.6%
  Overall height: 57.7%
  
  The first was calculated in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. It is supposed to give the best balance between brilliance and fire. Essentially, the larger the table, the greater the brilliance at the expense of fire. A generally termed ideal cut will have a table percentage between 53% and 57% and a depth or height of 58% to 60%. Expect to pay 15%-20% more for an ideal cut stone. Avoid stones with table percentages above 70% or depths over 64% or under 57%.
  
  Cut refers to the proportions, finish, symmetry, and polish of the diamond. These factors determine the fire and brilliance of a diamond. Well cut diamonds sell at a premium and poorly cut diamonds sell at discounted prices. With the advent of technology, the cut of the diamond can be determined through the use of the Dia-Mension system, a computerized system which takes accurate measurements and proportions of a diamond in seconds, in addition to the standard millimeter gauge.
  
  As an example, a round brilliant cut, which has 58 facets, is shown below.  Since the quality of the cut is directly responsible for the stone's beauty, the precision with which the facets are arranged is of prime importance.  They determine the amount of light reflected to the eye, called brilliance.
  
  
  
  The proportions displayed by the stone are very significant.  Two of the key factors in the grading of cut quality -- table percentage and depth percentage -- are usually expressed on grading reports.   Measurement of three different parameters allows for easy calculation of these percentages by using the formulas expressed below.
  
  
  
  For example, for a round brilliant cut diamond, table percentage is calculated as follows
  
  Table (%)  =  longest table measurement (in mm)
                             average girdle diameter (in mm)
  
  And for depth percentage
  
  Depth (%)  =             depth (in mm)                 
                             average girdle diameter (in mm)
  
  Without attention to quality cutting, light is lost and not returned to the eye.
  
  
  
  Proportions Criteria are as shown below
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Each cut style above represents, in the opinion of its respective designer, those proportions which best balance the qualities of brilliance and dispersion ("fire") within a round diamond.
  
  Return to Round Diamond Price Lists Here
  
  Remember, beauty is in the cutting!
  It is where the cutter truly expresses artistic skill, as the other 3 C's are determined by nature alone.
  
  Q. Why aren't all stones cut to these specifications?
  
  A. Not all can be. Less that 1% of all stones are considered ideal. The main motivating factor behind this is money however. Ideal cut stones result in a greater amount of waste. For this reason, all but the finest cutters rarely perform these cuts to cut down on waste. There are only (last I knew) 3 cutters in the US that perform the Tolkowsky cut.
  
  Q. Is there any way to judge the cut of the stone without making these measurements?
  
  A. Yes. Well, you can tell if a stone is poorly cut by looking for the following
  • A white circle resembling a donut in the face-up view of a diamond. It occurs because the pavilion is too shallow and the girdle is reflected out.
  • Obvious dark spots/centers when viewed face-up. These indicate that the pavilion was cut too deep.
  • Extremely thick girdles reduce the brilliance and make the stone look small for its weight.
  • Look for a girdle that is uneven in thickness (for reasons other than geometry) around the stone
  One good way to see how well a stone is cut is to view it straight down on the table. The table and the four corners form an "square shape". On well cut stones, the sides of the square will bow in *slightly*. Sides that bow out are less than ideal. The slight inward bowing may be tough to detect, so consider a seemingly perfect square to be a decent cut. Severely bowed in squares are also undesirable.
  
  Q. What should I look for in the workmanship of the stone?
  
  A. Well, first of all, if it is a brilliant cut, make sure it is round. Be sure that the culet is not chipped or broken. The girdle should not be too thick or its or too thin. The girdle should be straight, not wavy from the sides. Be sure that the facets of the crown align with the facets of the pavilion. Any misalignment will show itself in the girdle. With a loupe of a scope look closely at the girdle. Stones that are cut in a hurry will have small cracks that extend into the stone, making it look fuzzy or "bearded". Don't confuse this with the natural frosty color of the girdle. Sometimes If the symmetry of the stone is off, or if it is damaged, extra facets may be added. Be sure the table is parallel to the girdle and the culet (as seen through the table) is on-center and undamaged.
  
  Q. How many facets are there?
  
  A. On a brilliant full-cut stone there are 58 facets; 32 facets plus the table above the girdle and 24 facets plus the culet below the girdle. Some with only 18 facets are referred to as "single cuts".
  
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  Section 5: Words About Color
  Q. What is body color?
  
  A. This is the amount of yellow or brown tint within the stone, not rare colors that are considered "fancies" (not to be confused with cuts other than the brilliant, which are also referred to as fancies).
  
  Q. How do you judge color?
  
  A. It is impossible to accurately judge color in a mounted stone. Because of its brilliance, it is best to judge it looking through the pavilion with the table down on a while surface.
  
  Q. What is a Premier?
  
  A. A premier is a diamond with a yellowish body color that is masked by a strong-blue fluorescence. The diamond will appear whiter than it really is. It will always have an oily or murky appearance in daylight or fluorescent light. This causes a reduction in value.
  
  Q. My ring fluoresces in certain lights...is that ok?
  
  A. The GIA estimates than 50% of all gem diamonds fluoresce. Blue is the most common. It has no effect on value (contrary to what the jeweler may tell you) unless it causes the stone to appear murky. In that case you should see a reduction in value.
  
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  Section 6: Inclusions
  Q. I know that most rings have inclusions, but what is ok and what isn't?
  
  A. Avoid the following flaws
  -Large milky or cloudy areas
  -Big cracks...they threaten the durability. These include big feathers (big meaning 1/3 the diameter of the stone or more) -Big chips...they'll get bigger
  -Big white, black or colored lines. They reduce brilliance and threaten durability.
  
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  Section 7: Selecting a Diamond and the Effect of the 4 c's on Cost
  Q. I've set a budget, but I find so many stones of all different sizes and qualities that fit my price range. Is there a decent strategy to use to narrow my choices?
  
  A. My strategy is geared towards getting the best balance between appearance and size. It is common to try to get the largest stone you can afford. Unfortunately this stone will not demonstrate the brilliance *I* desire because of its shortcomings in the other 3 C's. Our approach to narrowing choices is as follows based on the four C's is as follows.
  
  Disregard carat. We will come back to that later.
  
  Color: Take stones of various color grades and compare them so that you can learn to tell the difference. At first this will be very difficult. Notice the effect of color on price. You will that when you go from "near colorless" to "colorless" the price skyrockets. Now look at the same stones separately and see if you can detect the yellow tinge. Since the stone will always be seen on a finger, and not next to a collection of other diamonds, concentrate on finding one that does not appear yellow without comparison. Most people find that J color or lower appears colorless without comparison. Try to view in sunlight if possible. Some stores will have a set of reference stones which they use to grade the color. You will find these useful to see the various levels of color. Once you have decided at which point you can detect yellow tinges, you have determined an upper limit on your desired color.
  
  Clarity: This is the biggest scam going. Use a jeweler's loupe or microscope and view various grades of stones. It is easy to see differences here. Now view the stones without magnification. Even knowing the locations of the inclusions, they should not be visible if the stone is SI2 or better. You now know that clarity provides high prices with little visible difference. If you are a collector, the story is different. If you want the most attractive stone for your money, anything higher than SI2 is a plus, but not necessary. Inclusions are normalities, not abnormalities in a diamond. They are useful in helping one identify a particular stone.
  
  Cut: This will have the greatest overall impact on the appearance of the stone. Unfortunately, it is often the most downplayed aspect of the diamond. Diamonds can be cut short and fat, making them appear large. The further that they deviate from the optimum cut, the more dead spots that will appear. Mall jewelers will often attribute brilliance to high clarity and good color. In actuality, the cut affects this.
  
  The carat of the stone will be dictated by your budget and the constraints of color and clarity. If cut is underemphasized, you may simply be lucky and find a very brilliant stone that is not much more expensive. It all depends on the store. Once again, try to view stones in sunlight, as that contains the highest content of visible light. The lights in jewelery stores could make a coke bottle in a setting look good.
  
  Once you have decided on a price range, go to the dealer. If you tell them that you are interested in an x carat stone, they know that you haven't done your homework. If you tell them that you have a budget of X dollars and you are looking for the nicest stone in terms of cut and overall appearance in that price range, and you would prefer a stone that has no visible inclusions you will do much better. Expect them to suggest some out of you range; obviously they want to get those extra $$$, so state a budget slightly less than you really want to spend. If they think that you are stretching your budget for a nicer stone, they will be more willing to cut you a break. Also, the price on the tag is never what you pay. Get them to throw in a free initial appraisal for insurance reasons as well.
  
  Q. How a 1 carat diamond is more than 2x the price of a .5 carat diamond even though they are similarly rated?
  
  A. The cost of a stone increases with carat weight. This stands to reason, however there is not a general price per carat for all stones. Instead there is a price per carat for stones in certain sizes. Stones in the 1/3<to<1/2 carat size are cheaper per carat than those in the 1/2<to<3/4 size. This is to your advantage sometimes. If you would like to get, say a 1 carat stone of a certain color and clarity, you may find 2 with similar ratings, 1 being 0.98 carat and the other being 1.01 carat. If the price per carat for "light" carats (0.9< to <1.00 carats) is $4000 per carat but for full carats it is $4800 per carat, the two rings will cost ~$3920 and $4848 respectively. This is a tremendous price difference for a 3 point increase in size.
  
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  Section 8: Settings
  Q. I've found the diamond I want, but I don't like the setting...what should I do?
  
  A. The setting really compliments the diamond. Make them change it. If they are going to charge you, or won't change it, you probably want to do business with a different store.
  
  Q. Should I buy a 4 or 6 prong setting for my brilliant cut diamond?
  
  A. This depends on what you like. Smaller stones (<0.5 carat) are greatly affected appearance-wise by the type of setting. Four prongs tend to make make them look more square while 6 prongs cover more of the stone. Six prongs will hold the stone more securely in the event that one fails...and that does happen.
  
  Q. How important is the setting?
  
  A. Well, like tires to a car, it is the most under-rated part of the whole package. It is the only thing that hangs on to your investment. Cheap settings are made of stamped yellow gold. The more expensive ones are white gold, to die struck white gold and palladium all the way up to platinum. Be sure to find out what the setting is made of and don't be afraid to spend extra on the setting you want.
  
  Q. How long is a setting good for?
  
  A. It depends on what you do and what the setting is made out of. It is wise to have it inspected annually.
  
  Q. Is my diamond covered under my renter's/homeowner's insurance?
  
  A. You should check, but probably not. Most policies will allow you to "list" jewelery on a rider for that policy. The cost seems to be about $1.75 per $100 of value.
  
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  Section 9: How to Not Get Ripped Off
  Q. How do I know that I'm getting real diamonds?
  
  A. There are several ways to tell. You can try to scratch it. Diamonds are the hardest material on the planet, so if it is real, it won't scratch. If it is out of the setting, place it table down on newsprint and see if you can read through it. If you can, it is fake. There are other tests that you can ask the jeweler to perform in your presence to verify its authenticity.
  
  Q. I'm getting by diamond inspected/remounted/etc. How can I be sure that they don't switch the stone on me?
  
  A. Know where the inclusions are on your stone. You can have it certified by the GIA for a fee. They will document the exact location of all identifying inclusions along with color and carat. If you bought a Lazare diamond, know what the serial is.
  
  Q. I asked a jeweler how big a stone was and he mentioned something about spread. What did he mean?
  
  A. Caveat about size: Always ask how much the stone weighs, not how big it is. There is a term floating around call "spread". The conversation goes something like this
  
  Customer: What size is that diamond?
  Jeweler: This stone here is very beautiful...you have a good eye! It has a 1 carat spread.
  
  *Note, the customer now thinks the jeweler thinks he/she is dealing with an educated consumer, so he/she can use the terms of the trade without being confusing. The customer does not know the term "spread" and does not ask for fear of losing the image of being educated.
  
  This is what spread is: The spread of the diamond is the weight that an ideally cut stone with the same outer dimension (diameter at the girdle) as the stone in question has. The only stones that have equal weights and spreads are ideally cut stones. Most stones you will find are shallow cut stones. This means the stone is short and fat. This type of cutting allows the stone to appear larger while weighing less. As described before, it affects the brilliance and fire of the stone. A shallow cut stone with a 1 carat spread will weigh less than 1 carat. A deep cut stone with a one carat spread will weigh more than one carat. It is good if the jeweler tells you the weight and the spread as it can help you know if the proportions are close to ideal (the closer the spread and weight are, the better). You just have to watch out for jewelers that try to pawn off the spread as the weight. You can be sure that it is less.
  
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  Section 10: Metals
  I. Gold
  
  Q. Why is gold so popular?
  
  A. It does not corrode, tarnish or rust. It is easy to work with and has an attractive color.
  
  Q. Why is gold alloyed so often?
  
  A. Mixing gold with other metals makes it harder and cheaper.
  
  Q. What is Karat?
  
  A. Unlike "carat", karat refers to the purity level of gold. 24K (karat) is pure gold. 18K gold is 75% pure gold and 25% other metals.
  
  Q. Which is better, 14K or 18K gold?
  
  A. Neither. 18K is more expensive due to its higher gold content. It is also more yellow, but it is softer. 14K holds stones a little better. Ultimately it will be dictated by budget or which you like better appearance-wise.
  
  Q. How can I be sure that I have real gold?
  
  A. There are 3 tests
  • Visual inspection
  • Acid test
  • Price test
  The visual tester looks for consistent color. Are there black or silver blotches? Is the karatage marked? How heavy does it feel?
  
  Gold is the only yellow metal that does not react with nitric acid. If it is 10K or less, it will probably show some reaction due to the other metals in the alloy. Test kits are available at jewelery supply stores.
  
  If the price seems too good to be true...it probably is. To figure the value, you need to know the market value for gold, the weight of the article and the claimed karatage. The value can be calculated as follows:
  
  Value = weight*unit value*(karatage/24)
  
  Example: say the price of gold is $400 per ounce and you are looking at an 18K (supposedly) article that is 1/4 ounce in weight. Its value should be about: Value=(1/4)*$400*(18/24)=$75
  
  The price may be higher due to workmanship, but if the asking price is $35, you can be sure that it is not 18K or it is not real gold.
  
  Q. What makes gold "colored"?
  
  A. Pure gold comes in 1 color...yellow. It can be alloyed to form different colors though. Here is a list of gold alloys:
  
  II Platinum
  
  Q. What are the benefits of platinum?
  
  A. It doesn't corrode, tarnish or rust. It is very hard compared to gold and silver, but becomes difficult to work with when mixed with iridium...which it is usually alloyed with.
  
  Q. Why is it so expensive?
  
  A. First, it is much heavier than gold, so similar settings are heavier. Its price per ounce is more than gold since it is rarer than gold. It is also must more difficult to work with due to its high melting point and rapid setting.
  
  Q. I hear a lot of other metals mentioned when discussing settings. What are they used for?
  
  A. Metals associated with platinum and used in jewelery are: -rhodium...used to plate white gold and platinum for more silvery appearance -iridium...alloyed with platinum to make it harder -palladium...inexpensive and lightweight...alloyed to reduce cost -ruthenium...occasionally used to harden platinum -osmium...hardest known metal. rarely used in jewelery.
  
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  Section 11: Colored Gemstones
  Q. What do colored stone represent?
  
  A. Aside from birthstones, colored gems are becoming increasingly popular in engagement and wedding rings. The historical "mystical symbolism" of stone colors is outlined below:
  
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