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The Indians called her K-shian – "river of the clouds". The riverboatmen servicing the construction and mining camps along the river had less kind words to say of her. They cursed the Skeena with every cuss word in their considerable vocabulary as they fought the angry, raging torrents of the 350-mile long mountain river in northern British Columbia This is the West’s fastest flowing major waterway, the toughest of North America’s navigable rivers with 11 major rapids and canyons lacing the 180-mile stretch from tidewater to Hazelton. Their very names match its mood: Whirly Gig, Hornet’s Nest, Sheep Rapids (it gives the appearance of galloping sheep), and Devil’s Elbow. In stark contrast, VIA Rail Canada’s two-day daylight Skeena service between Jasper (Alberta) to Prince George and Prince Rupert (British Columbia) carries passengers alongside the river in the lap of gentle luxury.  Airline meals (when you can get them these days) are used to interrupt the tedium of the flight. Via Rail’s cuisine has to compete with the scenery. You don’t have to move from your spacious, reclining seat in the Panorama Dome Car of the Totem Deluxe Class or in the Totem Class itself for the splendid meals: breakfast of cereals, yogurt, fresh fruit and assorted muffins and Danish; lunch dishes of regional cuisine – chicken stuffed with Prosciutto Ham and Bocconcini cheese, salmon mousse and mouth-watering desserts; and a four-course dinner with dishes like fillet of beef tenderloin and sole stuffed with scallops and crabs, complemented by domestic wines.Passengers in these two classes have exclusive access to the Park Cars and their 360-degree scenic domes on the upper deck, and use of the Mural and Bullet Lounges. But the constantly-changing scenery is so spectacular that it doesn’t really matter where you sit: snow-covered mountain peaks (even in mid-summer), including Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, shimmering glaciers tucked away in the peaks, mountain slopes covered in giant cedars and hemlocks, and valleys decked in wild flowers, placid lakes and raging rivers and tumbling waterfalls. The train even slows down every so often for photo opportunities. Depending on season and chance, you could see wildlife such as bears, moose, elk, deer, wolves, coyotes, eagles and hawks and seals during the trip. At a halt at Terrace, one of the three cities on the Skeena’s route, we stood silently as a black bear crossed the rail track. The Skeena covers the entirety of its 725-mile journey during daylight hours – it stops overnight in Prince George where passengers have to secure their own overnight accommodation.  But the Skeena is more than just a plush journey for tourists. It is a lifeline for many of the remote communities it passes in the wilderness of northwestern Canada, sharing a warm spirit with these communities much as the riverboats in years past served the small settlements which sprung up along the Skeena and further inland. At Penny, once a thriving sawmill community, the Skeena stops to allow Service Manager Dave Sikka to step off the train to collect the mail. On the way back the Skeena will drop off mail for the population of 12 (at the last count!). It is one of the small community services that has made VIA Rail so cherished in the region.There are now four departures per week in each direction. There are three departures per week in each direction. A fourth departure per week in each direction has been added during the peak season to meet increasing demand. Some of the locales and events along the Skeena’s route include: Jasper , an internationally recognized four-season destination with great dining and shopping nestled in the midst of Jasper National Park's vast, unspoiled grandeur in Alberta. Summer activities here include hiking and mountain biking, and winter brings top-notch skiing and other snow sports. With natural wonders like Maligne Canyon, Sunwap Falls, Mount Edith Cavell and Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park has some of the most remarkable landscapes in the world. The largest park in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, it is also a wildlife sanctuary perfect for viewing all kinds of animals in their natural habitats.  If you’re in Jasper you should think about a drive south on the Icefields Parkway, one of the world’s most scenic routes. Continue to the village of Lake Louise, a resort with hiking, camping and mountain biking in the summer, and tremendous skiing and snowboarding in the winter. Along your route you will pass through two other spectacular national parks: Banff National Park and Yoho National Park.Prince George, where the Skeena stops overnight, is a beautiful city located in some of Canada’s densest forests ..... there are over 100 parks within the city limits. Prince George also offers several fascinating museums, such as the Fraser Fort George Regional Museum, a hands-on natural history and science centre featuring adventure theatre, an in-depth history of the region’s human culture .... and great fishing, hiking, hunting, jet boating, and even llama-trekking. The last stop on the Skeena’s westward journey is the coastal city of Prince Rupert. Built in 1889, the Pacific Historic Fishing Village features tours and live performances that provide an entertaining look at life in a cannery village. The Museum of Northern BC houses artifacts from the region’s fur-trading history and exhibits the ancient and modern histories of the region, including a detailed look at the Native Americans of the Pacific Northwest. Visitors to Prince Rupert also have the option of a day trip to the Khutzeymateen Valley, a wildlife refuge ideal for viewing grizzly bears and other wildlife as well as hiking, kayaking & cruising/sailing trips and saltwater angling. Prince Rupert is the gateway to Northwest British Columbia, the Queen Charlotte Islands (Haida Gwaii) and Southeast Alaska with ferry service connections south to Vancouver Island with BC Ferries and north to Alaska with the Alaska Marine Highway.   VIA Rail Canada operates Canada’s passenger train network in all regions of Canada from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and from the Great Lakes to Hudson Bay. Among VIA’s most popular trains are The Canadian, with its award-winning Silver & Blue Class between Toronto-Jasper and Vancouver; VIA 1 Class, premium service, on frequent inter-city trains throughout Central Canada’s Quebec City-Windsor Corridor; and The Ocean with its popular Easterly Class between Montreal-Moncton and Halifax.Its two daylight touring trains are the Skeena, and the Bras d’Or which connects the historic city of Halifax to Sydney in the scenic Cape Breton highlands of Nova Scotia. For further information, contact VIA Rail Canada 1-888-842-7245 (reservations) or 1-800-304-4842 (literature fax line) or visit the website at www.viarail.ca.  By Air Consumer-friendly Hawkair has expanded rapidly to open up Canada’s Northwest with a frequent, affordable and reliable air service. Based in Terrace, British Columbia, Hawkair serves many far-flung communities, linking Terrace, Prince Rupert, Smithers and Dawson Creek with Vancouver, and now has a connector service to the beautiful Queen Charlotte Islands. Bookings can be made online at www.hawkair.ca or by calling toll-free 1-866-429-5247 and 1-800-487-1216 (fax: 1-250-635-7852) or email reservations@hawkair.ca. Hotels The region has an array of accommodation but at the three stops along the Skeena’s route try Park Place Inn (Jasper), Ramada Hotel Downtown Prince George and The Crest Hotel (Prince Rupert). |
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