North Carolina's
Central Coast

Within a two-hour drive north by northeast up the Ocean Highway (U.S. Highway 17) from Wilmington are a multitude of daytrip possibilities. The Central Coast area (Bogue Banks, Morehead City and quaint Beaufort), also known as the Crystal Coast, and nearby historic New Bern, as well as the waters that surround and connect them, promise delightful opportunities.

The Crystal Coast area shares much in common with the Cape Fear Coast. Both boast beautiful waters, miles of oceanside communities, great restaurants and, of course, deep historical roots. However, they are different enough to make visiting each of them a unique experience.

Boaters visiting this area will be charmed by its amenities. Most marinas are just a short stroll from shopping, dining, historic sites and services. A fast powerboat can reach the area from Wilmington in several hours. Although some people make this a daytrip on the water, you'll have more time to enjoy the local attractions if you drive.

By car, simply head up U.S. Highway 17 until it intersects N.C. Highway 24 in Jacksonville. Go east on N.C. 24 toward Beaufort. It is a trip of less than 100 miles from Wilmington, and there are many views of North Carolina's waters and coastal communities along the way.

Crystal Coast tourist information, maps and brochures are available at the Crystal Coast Visitors Center, 3409 Arendell Street, Morehead City, (252) 726-8148 or (800) 786-6962. Another useful resource is The Insiders' Guide® to North Carolina's Central Coast & New Bern, which is available in local bookstores and is online in its entirety at www.insiders.com/crystalcoast

Swansboro

Swansboro, a historic coastal town that dates back to around 1730, is a pleasant stopover after about an hour and a half of car travel from Wilmington. Situated on the White Oak River and the Intracoastal Waterway, this lovely little town is surrounded by water on three sides.

Swansboro has a particularly charming downtown historic area lined with antiques shops, boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. Look for signs leading to the district just off N.C. 24. The area is concentrated within three blocks on the shores of the White Oak River. Parking is free, the merchants are friendly, and there are several quaint and interesting shops, including Russell's Old Tyme Shoppe, (910) 326-3790; Noah's Ark, (910) 326-5679; Silver Thimble Gift Shoppe, (910) 326-8558; Gray Dolphin Boutique, (910) 326-4958; The Brass Binnacle, (910) 326-2448; and Through the Looking Glass, (910) 326-3128.

The historic district is a great stopover for lunch or dinner. Captain Charlie's Seafood Paradise, 106 Front Street, (910) 326-4303, is a memorable place to enjoy some of North Carolina's best fried seafood. It serves dinner only. Gourmet Cafe, 99 Church Street, (910) 326-7114, has an extensive wine list and offers tasty lunch and dinner options. Lunch choices include salads, build-your-own sandwiches and homemade desserts. Dinner specialties include seafood, beef and veal. Church Street Coffee and Deli, 105 Church Street, (910) 326-7572, offers gourmet meats. It's open for coffee in the morning and at lunch.

Bogue Banks

Back on N.C. 24, travel another 10 minutes to the intersection with N.C. Highway 58. A right turn is the western entrance to Bogue Banks, a barrier island separated from the mainland by Bogue Sound. You can choose to continue straight on N.C. Highway 24 or cross the bridge to take a parallel route on the barrier island. The bridge is worth the detour because its high arc gives motorists a dramatic view of the Intracoastal Waterway.

The beach communities along approximately 30 miles of the island are widely varied in tone. Emerald Isle, Indian Beach and Salter Path offer an astonishing diversity of neighborhoods, ranging from expensive beach homes and condominiums to fishing trailers. There are also a few attractions for the kids, including miniature golf, waterslides and bumper boats.

Pine Knoll Shores is an exclusive residential area of windswept live oaks and kudzu with attractive single-family homes and condominiums as well as hotels and the occasional restaurant. This beach is also home to the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores, (252) 247-4003.

At the eastern end of the island is Atlantic Beach, a smorgasbord of beach amenities fishing piers, shopping opportunities, boat rentals, fast-food restaurants, full-service restaurants and motels. Just beyond Atlantic Beach on the eastern tip of Bogue Banks is Fort Macon State Park, (252) 726-3775, an old Civil War fort and 385-acre state park. The old fort has been totally restored to the Civil War period and is open for tours, either guided or on your own. Take a picnic and make a day of it. Visitors have access to picnic tables, outdoor grills, shelters, restrooms and drinking water, in addition to the nature trails, abundant plant life and beaches. 

Morehead City

Cross over the bridge at the eastern end of Bogue Banks and enter Morehead City, home to the North Carolina State Port Authority — something else Wilmington and the Crystal Coast have in common — and a multitude of restaurants specializing in fresh seafood.

The undisputed traditional leader of dining in Morehead City is the Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant, 501 Evans Street, (252) 247-3111. The restaurant seats 600 diners and serves fresh broiled or fried seafood, homemade chowders and Tar Heel hush puppies that truly melt in your mouth. Capt. Bill's Waterfront Restaurant, 701 Evans Street, (252) 726-2166, is open for lunch and dinner and serves fresh-catch seafood with traditional hush puppies, cole slaw, chowders and fresh pies. Finz Grill of Morehead, 105 S. Seventh Street, (252) 726-5502, occupies the former headquarters of the Morehead Gulf Oil Company. Open for lunch and dinner, it features fresh local seafood as the specialty of the house. Dine outside on nice days and enjoy the view from a second-story deck.

The History Place, 1008 Arendell Street, (252) 247-7533, interprets the history of the Cape Lookout region from Native Americans through modern development. Admission is free; however, groups are charged $2 per person for guide services. A tea room and gift shop are on site.

Morehead City offers a wide variety of shopping opportunities but none are more charming than the waterfront area facing Bogue Sound. Stroll along Evans Street and enjoy some of the shops that tempt you. Dee Gee's Gifts and Books, (252) 726-3314, is a waterfront tradition that offers a large selection of books, including local and regional titles. Also check out the selection of gifts, cards and nautical charts. Windward Gallery, (252) 726-6393, offers oils, pastels and acrylics by local artists, and Arts & Things, (252) 240-1979 has a fine array of art supplies and works by local and international artists.

Beaufort

Just a few miles from Morehead City is the magical town of Beaufort. Beaufort is so gorgeous it seems more like a postcard than a real place. This little laid-back coastal community nestles up to international waters and is a gateway from the Atlantic Ocean to America's waterways. Taylor's Creek, the body of water in front of the town's quaint commercial district, is filled with sailcraft and powerboats from all over the world. Just up Taylor's Creek you can catch sight of a menhaden fishing fleet. Beyond that is Core Sound and a view of Harkers Island, home to some of this country's earliest shipbuilders.

Beaufort boasts a very unusual view: wild horses on Carrot Island across from the waterfront. The horses are stocky, furry steeds that pretty much care for themselves on their little windswept island. In a world where horses are rarely seen running free, this is a stirring sight. If you want a closer look, ask about boat tours that depart from the Beaufort docks. The island chain across from the Beaufort Waterfront is the Rachel Carson Estuarine Research Reserve. Free guided tours are offered each month from April to August. Inquire at the North Carolina Maritime Museum (more about this site in a minute) about tour times. One catch: You have to provide your own water transportation to get to the island. If you use the ferry service, expect to pay up to $8 ($4 for kids) for a round-trip journey, but remember the island tour is free. Ferry services are availalbe on the Beaufort waterfront.

A fascinating history lesson awaits you when you visit the Old Burying Ground, where there are more than 200 markers pre-dating the Civil War. Stories are told about a British officer buried standing up and the girl who died at sea and was preserved in a rum barrel until her father could get her home. Admission is free, but guided tours are available at $5 for adults and $3 for children.

The sheer beauty of the scenery at the Beaufort waterfront is enough to lull a visitor into sitting in a pleasant trance for a long time, but there is also the allure of nearby shops and attractions. Within an easy walk are stores, many appealing restaurants and the North Carolina Maritime Museum, 315 Front Street, (252) 728-7317, an 18,000-square-foot building that pays tribute to North Carolina's coastal heritage, natural resources and maritime history. The museum boasts the Harvey W. Smith Watercraft Center just across the street, a facility where students and craftsmen build wooden boats in traditional North Carolina design and welcome visitors to take a peek at boats-in-progress.

As you stroll downtown, don't miss the Beaufort Historic Site, (252) 728-5225 or (800) 575-7483, enclosed by white picket fences in the 100 block of Turner Street. These authentically restored buildings and the costumed guides offer a fascinating glimpse of coastal Carolina living in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Site tour and visitor information, special exhibits and historic artifacts are available on the grounds at the Safrit Historical Visitor Center, 130 Turner Street.

Shoppers will enjoy a variety of stores along the waterfront. The Rocking Chair Book Store, 400 Front Street, (252) 728-2671, has a fine selection of books for children and adults. Scuttlebutt Nautical Books and Bounty, 433 Front Street, (252) 728-7765, sells a large selection of books about the sea and boating. NOAA charts, cruising guides and chart books make this a must-stop for passing boaters. Lavaughn's Pottery, 517 Front Street, (252) 728-5353, is a show-stopper for shoppers interested in an extensive line of ceramics crafted by regional and local artists. Boathouse By Jarrett Bay, 507 Front Street, (252) 728-6363, is a good shop to buy gifts for boaters and home decor, and it's the only place to find must-have Jarrett Bay Boatworks apparel. The General Store, 515 Front Street, (252) 728-7707, has hand-dipped ice cream for your summer daytripping pleasure. Highlighting North Carolina artists and craftsmen, Handscapes Gallery in Somerset Square on Front Street, (252) 728-6805, offers pottery, jewelry, paintings, glass creations and metalwork. While shopping, don't miss The Old Beaufort Shop, 130 Turner Street, (252) 728-5225, housed in the Safrit Historical Visitor Center. This unique shop is operated by the Beaufort Historical Association and offers one-of-a-kind items made by BHA volunteers, such as original photography, handmade dolls, books on local history and herb cuttings.

Diners will be overwhelmed with restaurant possibilities. Beaufort Grocery Co., 117 Queen Street, (252) 728-3899, a lunch and dinner restaurant, offers fine dining and a full delicatessen. Breads and desserts are baked daily. Front Street Grill at Stillwater on the Beaufort waterfront at 300 Front Street, (252) 728-3118, has a reputation as an interesting restaurant that crafts creative and fresh presentations of seafood, chicken, pasta and homemade soups. Spouter Inn, 218 Front Street, (252) 728-5190, is a charming spot where diners can enjoy a memorable clam chowder, creative seafood specialties and a great view thanks to its waterfront location. Clawson's 1905 Restaurant & Pub, 429 Front Street, (252) 728-2133, long a dining fixture on the Beaufort waterfront, serves wonderful all-American fare. Its coffee bar, known as Fishtowne Java, serves high-octane caffeine drinks. 

New Bern

They say, "North Carolina Begins Here," in the city of New Bern, which lies along North Carolina's largest river, the Neuse. The Neuse River is one of the state's premier sailing areas because of the width and depth of the water. You'd have to try really hard to run aground in a sailboat on the Neuse. Car travelers will appreciate the lovely view of the river and will certainly enjoy the many opportunities to shop, dine and stay overnight in historic New Bern, which was settled by the Swiss and Germans in 1710. Reach it by car from Beaufort by taking U.S. 70 W. into New Bern. If traveling from Wilmington, take U.S. 17 N.

You may be interested to know that New Bern is the place where Pepsi Cola was invented. This uniquely historic town was the site of the first incorporated school in North Carolina, the permanent State Capitol Building, the first meeting of the North Carolina Legislature, the state's first bank, the first public school for African-Americans, the state's first press and many more firsts.

At the heart of New Bern's past and present is Tryon Palace Historic Sites & Gardens, 610 Pollock Street, (252) 514-4900 or (800) 767-1560. William Tryon chose New Bern as the first permanent capita of the Colony of North Carolina in 1767. He built the palace as a home befitting his stature as Colonial Governor and a suitably imposing seat of government for the British Colony. Architecture critics of the day called it the finest public building in the American colonies. When American patriots drove out the British in 1775, they made the palace the first capitol building of the new state. A few years after the capital was moved to Raleigh in 1795, the palace burned. The reconstructed palace opened to the public in 1959 as North Carolina's first great public history museum. Admission to Tryon Palace also gives you admittance to the Stanley House, Dixon House, Hay House and the New Bern Academy Museum. All are open year-round with tours, crafts demonstrations and costumed interpreters.

The New Bern Historical Society, 513 Broad Street, (252) 638-8558, offers tours of the 1790 Attmore-Oliver House, which features a fascinating collection of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century furnishings, New Bern artifacts and Civil War relics. Entrance to the building is located at 510 Pollock Street. Discover three centuries of history in a 1.5-hour narrated Trolley Tour of historic downtown New Bern. For information call (252) 637-7316 or (800) 849-7316. The New Bern Civic Theatre, 414 Pollock Street, (252) 633-0567, presents a wide variety of live attractions year round.

Craven Arts Council and Gallery, 317 Middle Street, (252) 638-2577, showcases an eclectic variety of artistic endeavors. The New Bern Fireman's Museum, 408 Hancock Street, (252) 636-4087, features an impressive collection of early firefighting equipment and rare photographs. Children of all ages will delight in A Day at the Farm, 183 Woodrow McCoy Road, (252) 514-9494, a historic New Bern dairy farm that features live animals, duck ponds, milking equipment, antiques, hay rides and more. For other attractions and expert touring advice, drop by the New Bern/Craven County Convention & Visitors Information Center at 203 S. Front Street or call (252) 637-9400 or (800) 437-5767. Ask for the New Bern Historic Homes Tour, the African-American Tour, The Church and Cemeteries Tour or the Civil War Heritage Tour information.

Once you've toured to your satisfaction, it's time to eat. For a small town, New Bern has an abundance of outstanding restaurants across the full spectrum of prices and cuisine. The Chelsea, 335 Middle Street, (252) 637-5469, offers varied, unique dining experiences in a restored 1912 pharmacy. Downstairs seating captures a turn-of-the-century drugstore atmosphere, while the second floor is casual Victorian in flavor. Open for lunch and dinner, the eclectic menu features a wide range of international and regional cuisine. Fred and Claire's Restaurant, 247 Craven Street, (252) 638-5426, is a great choice for dining in New Bern's historic district. Everything is made fresh daily, and the menu offers lunch options of specialty sandwiches, daily specials, quiche, soups and salads. Dinner choices range from omelets to fresh seafood. Latitude 35, located in the Sheraton New Bern Hotel & Marina, 100 Middle Street, (252) 638-3585, has a great seafood buffet on Fridays. Captain Ratty's, 202 Middle Street, (252) 633-2088, features an exceptionally large variety of grilled, steamed or broiled seafood.

If shopping is your reason to travel, New Bern has antiques stores and unique gift shops galore. Elegant Days, 236 Middle Street, (252) 636-3689 is a "treasure trove of old things." Jane Suggs Antiques, 228 Middle Street, (252) 637-6985, carries period furniture and reproductions, silver, porcelain and glassware. Don't let the office supplies and furniture fool you, Branch's, 309 Pollock Street, (252) 638-5171, offers a range of fine giftware, furniture, accessories, birdfeeders, lawn ornaments and more. For the kids there's Snapdragon Toys, 214 Middle Street, (252) 514-6770, a shop of toys that range from educational to just plain fun. Carolina Creations, 317-A Pollock Street, (252) 633-4369, showcases the works of local artists, contemporary crafts, glass, wood and metal sculpture. Mitchell's Hardware, 215 Craven Street, (252) 638-4261, is a century-old working hardware store that resembles an old-fashioned dry goods emporium with something for everyone.

New Bern is such a pleasant and interesting spot, it invites the visitor back again and again. There are beautiful hotels and inns in the historic downtown area on the water, including the Sheraton New Bern Hotel & Marina, (252) 638-3585 or (800) 326-3745; the Comfort Suites Riverfront Park, (252) 636-0022 or (800) 228-5150; the Bridgepoint Hotel & Marina, 101 Howell Road, (252) 636-3637 or (877) 283-7713; New Bern House Bed and Breakfast, 709 Broad Street, (252) 636-2250, which features mystery tour weekends in a restored colonial revival home; Harmony House, (252) 636-3810; Meadows Inn, (252) 634-1776 or (800) 551-1776; The Aerie (252) 636-5553 or (800) 849-5553; Howard House Victorian Bed & Breakfast, (252) 514-6709 or (800) 705-5261; and Hanna House, (252) 635-3209 or (866) 830-4371. These hotels and inns are particularly convenient to all the attractions and restaurants mentioned in this brief overview.