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Magazine
Not a stereotyped holiday
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Orissa has been in the news for all the wrong reasons, but the fact is that it is an ideal holiday destination, says ZIYA US SALAM.
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Chilka lake ... an experience to soothe frayed nerves.
A CONFESSION at the beginning won't be too out of place. We had landed at the Bhubaneswar Airport with preconceived notions of Orissa — an impoverished State where most people do not have enough to eat, where there have been reported starvation deaths and where parents are alleged to have sold their children in exchange for rice, not to forget the not-so-distant cyclone. Or the Staines' killing.
However, our thoughts proved to be what they were. Though the airport might appear to be a bit cramped, Bhubaneswar, at a glance, is a beautiful place — vast greens, reasonably clean roads and clean air. And the best place to enjoy a good local meal here is not a five-star hotel but a nondescript watering hole that goes by the name the Bhuiyan Hotel.
A simple structure, with ventilation at a premium, it serves food in typical Oriya fashion — on sal leaves. Quite affordable, it is said to be a favourite even of people who can afford to eat at a place with better ambience.
Not too far from Bhubaneswar are the Udaygiri-Khandagiri hills which one must visit to have a fleeting acquaintance with history. Situated seven kilometres from Bhubaneswar, these twin hills have caves dating back to the First Century B.C. Excavated by the Kharavela kings for Jain monks, the most notable among them are Hathigumpha and Ranigumpha in Udaygiri. Interestingly, as soon as you arrive at the Udaygiri hills, there is a troop of black monkeys to greet you. Though they look pretty ferocious, they are do not trouble you if you are willing to part with a packet of peanuts.
The inscription at the entrance is detailed enough and the services of guides are promptly made available. However, you might struggle to decipher their peculiar accent.
Driving down the Puri-Konark highway from Bhubaneswar, one comes across the Dhauli hills on the banks of the Daya, a site as soothing a sight as you can hope to come across. There are green paddy fields and only a handful of food stalls to break the reverie at this important Buddhist site. It contains the Third Century B.C. Rock Edict of Asoka, a reminder of the gruesome war the Mauryan king wages to expand his kingdom before renouncing violence. The Peace Pagoda, built in collaboration with Japanese Buddhist Sangha, on the opposite hill, is completely modern and acts as a fine foil.
A 90-minute drive from Bhubaneswar — via the famous Lingaraj temple — takes you to Puri, the abode of the gods, with its legendary Jagannath temple, its untouched beach and then the scores of Pandus who make their presence felt as soon as you alight from the car.
When in Puri, one can stay at one of the numerous hotels facing the beach. The best of the lot is Hotel Hans Co-Co Palms where every room is not only provided with an elegant mini bar but also faces the sea. The ambience is pretty soothing — more cosmopolitan and urban-oriented. In fact, an early morning stroll from the hotel to the sea can be quite rejuvenating. Incidentally, there is an Indian Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC) hotel too in the vicinity but which does not have a view of the sea. Then there is a Wild Grass restaurant, which provides a perfect mix of the urban and the rural in its ambience.
The six-kilometre long beach in Puri is almost unspoilt. Its waters appear turbulent only as long as you do not reach Konark where the sea actually seems to be having a game of one upmanship with its shores. While a section of the Puri beach is almost completely secluded, the other entertains vendors who sell sea shells and other souvenirs — quite affordable, ranging from Rs. 10 for a key ring to only a few hundreds for conch shells.
But for the devout, the best part of Puri is obviously the multi-layered Jagannath temple, where you will hear interesting anecdotes about the presiding deity of Puri. The locals attribute human traits to their deity. According to a legend, he even falls sick for a fortnight every year — darshan is restricted during this time. The best time to visit the temple is early morning.
While making Puri your base, you can undertake road journeys to Konark, which is not too far away — about an hour or so. The road, while not being invitingly wide, is perfectly motorable and traffic limited.
Konark is renowned for its magnificent Sun Temple constructed by Narasimha Deva of the Ganga Dynasty in the mid-13th Century. Here, the Natya Mandir (the dance hall of the temple) remains as the last remnant of the glorious temples of Orissa. All the statues in the outer circle are replicated in the temple. But most of them have been defaced. Many of them have been breached right along the centre, with the locals believing it to be because of the damage inflicted by the crumbling ceiling during the cyclone.
Here one can pick up cane and jute souvenirs at throwaway prices and enjoy a refreshing coconut drink.
When in Orissa, do not forget to visit Chilka lake, home to migratory birds. It is, again, about 1½ hour drive from Puri. The tourism office here looks after you pretty well. The boating facilities are excellent, and dinner on a calm, moonlit night in the middle of the lake can be absolutely heavenly.
As you finish your holiday in Orissa and all the images of poverty are driven away — at least in coastal Orissa — you can just about sneak in a visit to Pipli, a small town known for its handicraft items. The stuff is good, quality genuine, and prices not too steep.
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